Plugging in at home

[tgpilot]

I had the same setup till yesterday. I was running my RV off a 110 adapter including the A/C with no problem. But, yesterday I had a 50 amp service put in to ease any problems. When I had my house in TX I had both a 30 and a 50 amp service so that I could handle any RV I needed to plug in.

[B-O-B'03]

Originally Posted by gearhead

Get one of these and you can see how many amps you're pulling and what the voltage is coming to the RV.
You need one anyway to protect the RV electrical system...
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping...otection/56421

I recently installed the hard-wired version, with remote display, in my 22RBPR.

Should provide a little peace of mind.

-Brian

[scott24]

Originally Posted by {tpc}

I have heard that even if you can run the ac, you won't want to see your electric bill the next month.

We keep our AC on 85, just to keep the humidity down. Added about 10 a month to our bill. Keeps the camper rather nice.

[chris15005]

Originally Posted by {tpc}

I have heard that even if you can run the ac, you won't want to see your electric bill the next month.

I can vouch for this !!! our bill this month was ugly after running the A/C and fridges for the days before we went out last month big spike in usage damn smart meter!!!!

[CarKath]

Originally Posted by chris15005

I can vouch for this !!! our bill this month was ugly after running the A/C and fridges for the days before we went out last month big spike in usage damn smart meter!!!!

What do you think it actually cost? I'm in the process of adding a 30 amp receptacle to the side of my garage. I am curious of real costs of plugging in.

Thanks to anybody who can provide that. I know regional issues apply. All regions comparison is helpful.

Thanks Guys.
Carl

note : I don't think a smart meter affected anybodies bill as of yet. they account for usage same as any other

[jkohler70]

I found an interesting test on RV refrigerators (very detailed). Section 4.7 states that the monthly cost just for the fridge is a little over $20. This is really more than you'll ever want to know about RV refrigerators.

http://rvrefrigeration.com/wp-conten...eport-rev4.pdf

[tgpilot]

As noted in my previous post, I've always had a 30/50 amp plug on the side of my garage. Though I always keep mine plugged in, I always shut everything off unless needed, or in preparation for a trip. Sometimes, if I have someone visiting, I am able to put them in the RV like a guest cottage.

My bill for these occasional uses never run to much. Well worth having the plug in installed.

[djkrs2]

Recently we seem to be having a problem plugging in at home with a 120v outlet on a 15A circuit. We had been able to run our A/C with nothing else running without any problem. After our last camping trip we plugged the trailer in as we usually do and the A/C would run for a short while and trip the breaker. We were using the trailer as a guest house so we had to just use the fan for the time being. It then got to the point that the breaker would trip when nothing but the microwave clock was on... so I thought. After reading something here it clicked that the water heater may be on. Sure enough, it was. That was why the A/C wouldn't run. Now, however, as soon as I plug the trailer in with NOTHING on, it trips the breaker. I am using a heavy gauge extension cord, but I always have. I've also tried two different chords to rule that out with the same results. Do you think something may have gotten damaged? Does anyone have any ideas what may be causing the breaker to trip as soon as the trailer is plugged in?

Thank you.

[14george]

Breaker could be getting weak

[bobbecky]

Running, or attempting to run A/C's and motors on marginal circuits with possible low voltage, which causes higher amperage loading, is just asking for expensive repairs or replacements of the equipment. When motors, also A/C compressors, are run on low voltage, yes they may run, but with higher amperage, the windings in the motor get hotter than they were designed to be run at. Every time that happens, the life of that motor is shortened due to the varnish insulation on the motor windings starts to break down, eventually causing the motor to burn out. If you lose an A/C or other motor due to overload, low voltage, or other reason that causes overheating, once they take apart the motor, it is obvious what caused the failure. The expense to wire in a proper circuit is minimal compared to the cost to replace an A/C. It's also not fun to be out camping on a hot weekend, enjoying a cool A/C, when it fails and the fun weekend isn't all that great anymore.

[djkrs2]

Well, I hope I haven't hurt the A/C but even with everything off, as soon as I plug the trailer in to a 110 outlet the breaker trips. I've tried multiple outlets with the same results. Is there something that could be tripped in the trailer that is causing the big draw as soon as it's plugged in? Sorry for the follow up but electricity is something I know nothing about.

Thanks...

[B&T]

Originally Posted by djkrs2

Well, I hope I haven't hurt the A/C but even with everything off, as soon as I plug the trailer in to a 110 outlet the breaker trips. I've tried multiple outlets with the same results. Is there something that could be tripped in the trailer that is causing the big draw as soon as it's plugged in? Sorry for the follow up but electricity is something I know nothing about.

Thanks...

Try switching off all the ac breakers in your camper. If it still trips your house breaker you really should get some technical help.

If the house breaker did not trip, try switching on your camper ac breakers one at a time while monitoring the house breaker. This may help you isolate the circuit that is causing the problem. This is all i can suggest with the info you have provided.

[CarKath]

If you can, test the 30 amp to 15 amp dogbone. Or get a buddy to do it if you don't have a multi meter. Lot's of how to use multi meters out there.

If that tests out ok, keep tracing it back. Umbilical , shore power plug on trailer, pull it out and clean / tighten connections.

Next would be to trace that to trailer panel to make sure it is not shorting out along the way. Maybe a rodent got in and chewed it, never know.

Basically you need to inspect from one end to the other and test it along the way.

My best guess is the 30 to 15 dogbone is NFG.