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Old 05-25-2015, 05:48 PM   #1
archer75
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Hitch/Shank hitting the ground

We bought our 2015 hideout earlier this year. I thought it rather odd that the A frame was welded on the bottom of the frame which puts the coupler closer to the ground. To couple and keep it level I had to purchase a drop shank(my truck is stock suspension, no lift). Once coupled the weight distribution hitch head is very close to the ground and there's been a couple of instances when towing where the shank actually scraped on the ground. But there's just no other position for the hitch head that will keep the trailer level. Anyone else have this issue on a hideout? The springdales are essentially the same thing. I wonder why they weld that A frame under the trailer frame like that? I'm ready to sell this thing as a result as it's just unsafe.
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Old 05-25-2015, 09:31 PM   #2
Ken / Claudia
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Let us know what tow vehicle you have. Maybe a photo of the 2 vehicles hooked up with the system your using. Is it hitting on the roadways when driving or when going up say a steep driveway. A easy guess is your TV is just to low at the rear bumper.
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Old 05-26-2015, 03:10 AM   #3
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I think a lot of trailers have a similar build, I know my Premier is that way but I did not have to change my hitch.
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Old 05-26-2015, 06:51 AM   #4
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I do not have any pictures of it hitched up. Here's what the coupler height is like on the trailer. Keep in mind this is with the trailer level but not parallel with the ground. My driveway has a slight slope. So to make it parallel it would need to come down several inches. You can imagine how low the hitch head would be with the entire assembly under that. To the top of the coupler from the ground is about 16".
The trailer is a Hideout 24BHWE. My truck is a Nissan Titan. It's height is similar to any other truck. We are considering upgrading to a cougar 26DBHWE. The hitch style on that is the same however the entire trailer sits higher so I don't think it would be an issue.

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Old 05-26-2015, 07:56 AM   #5
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That's exactly like my 323BH hitch looks like... And I'm pretty sure that's how the frame comes out too...

What's your tongue weight and what is your truck rated for? Is the truck returning to level when you put the weight distribution on?

Sorry, not the greatest shot of hitch/frame, but all I have right now. If you'd like I can get you a better one tonight. My yard also slopes a lot, trailer is level in this picture...
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Old 05-26-2015, 08:06 AM   #6
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Different models have larger tires and wheels and suspensions that allow them to sit higher even with the frame like that. Just seems I have a low model. I have plenty of room before I hit the weight limits of the truck. Tongue weight loaded is around 600 lbs and I can go up to 920lbs. With WD the height is right in between hitched and unhitched which is exactly where equalizer said it should be.
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Old 05-26-2015, 08:19 AM   #7
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How many steps do you have at the door, 2 or 3? We had a 2 step trailer that sat low. We had to run it on boards to get in and out of the driveway. There were 3 or 4 places that would hit the ground without the boards. After 2 years I upgraded to something with some height. The Premier has 3 steps and could actually use a 4th as we have to put something on the ground so we can get to the first step. Some trailers are just low.
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Old 05-26-2015, 08:23 AM   #8
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From what I can tell our '14 Cougar High Country 319rls has a frame similar to yours, but, it looks like ours sits a LOT higher than yours. Where we are at now, sitting level on a level lot, the top of my hitch is at 23 1/2". If it were on a slope like your picture it might be close to 30". Yours seems pretty low.
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:37 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GaryWT View Post
How many steps do you have at the door, 2 or 3? We had a 2 step trailer that sat low. We had to run it on boards to get in and out of the driveway. There were 3 or 4 places that would hit the ground without the boards. After 2 years I upgraded to something with some height. The Premier has 3 steps and could actually use a 4th as we have to put something on the ground so we can get to the first step. Some trailers are just low.
2 steps. Sometimes at home if I need to get in it I don't even pull the steps out. Just put one foot up and grab the side and pull myself in.
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:43 AM   #10
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I think you just have a low trailer. We are similar to GaryWT; 3 steps and use a 4"-5" platform to get to the first step.
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Old 05-26-2015, 09:52 AM   #11
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If I remember correctly, the 24BH sits significantly lower then the 24BHS. I believe the BHS axles sit below the springs and the BH axles sit above the springs. If that's correct, you can gain about 3" of trailer height by reversing the axles so they ride under the springs.

You might want to do a quick check to see just where your axles are mounted. I just can't remember the last time I was under a non-slide Hideout.
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Old 05-26-2015, 11:28 AM   #12
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No slide and shallow slide trailers are lower and can cause these issues. Like I said, after 2 years we traded it to get something higher. Old trailer had 5.5 inches of clearance in some locations, current trailer has at least 12 inches of clearance. Thought about flipping the axles but in the end our upgrade is a better trailer.
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Old 05-26-2015, 01:52 PM   #13
Ken / Claudia
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So, is the WHD or hitch hitting the road as you drive or just up a steep Driveway.
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Old 05-26-2015, 01:56 PM   #14
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Steep driveways, pulling in and out of gas stations, pot holes, anything in the highway that can cause it to bounce too much. Speed bumps.
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Old 05-26-2015, 04:18 PM   #15
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I think the general consensus is you have a low "sprung" trailer. They do come with issues (my 85 Terry Taurus comes to mind). As with my Jeeps that I work on, the only solution is a spring over swap, re-arch the springs, do the above with bigger tires/wheels....etc. (I don't think they make lift kits for RVs just yet). Best bet, buy a trailer with the clearance IMO.
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Old 05-27-2015, 03:13 PM   #16
Ken / Claudia
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Besides getting a higher trailer or putting springs on top of trailer axles. Rear air bags installed on the truck MAY solve the problem. If you can air them put to place the truck rear near the empty level. Adjust the hitch to have the trailer level again or just air up to move in/out of driveway.
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Old 05-27-2015, 04:17 PM   #17
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I'd look into the spring-over conversion. You have to have new spring pads welded on top of the axles to maintain proper camber. You can't just flip the axles (unless they have no camber arch to begin with). Still a simple job and it will solve the problem once and for all. The height increase will be the axle diameter plus the spring thickness plus 2X the height of the mounting pad. Usually about 5".
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Old 05-28-2015, 05:19 PM   #18
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Thanks for the feedback. I think at this point we are going to look into trading ours in for a cougar. Specifically the 26DBHWE. It fits most of our needs and the price is right.
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Old 05-29-2015, 03:33 AM   #19
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I'd look into the spring-over conversion. You have to have new spring pads welded on top of the axles to maintain proper camber. You can't just flip the axles (unless they have no camber arch to begin with). Still a simple job and it will solve the problem once and for all. The height increase will be the axle diameter plus the spring thickness plus 2X the height of the mounting pad. Usually about 5".
Over/Under conversion kits are available from Dexter at their website: http://dexteraxle.com/over_under_conversion_kits

The cost varies depending on the axle diameter ($51 vs $58). These kits pretty much make it a "driveway mod" without the need to do any welding.
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Old 05-29-2015, 07:58 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
Over/Under conversion kits are available from Dexter at their website: http://dexteraxle.com/over_under_conversion_kits

The cost varies depending on the axle diameter ($51 vs $58). These kits pretty much make it a "driveway mod" without the need to do any welding.
John, I would think those spring seats have to be welded on. Otherwise I think the axles would rotate the first time you applied heavy braking. I couldn't bring up any instructions but would be very surprised (and wary) if not welded. Still an easy job though.

** OK, found the instructions. In item #9 they "strongly recommend" the spring pads be welded to prevent axle slippage. http://www.easternmarine.com/downloa...structions.pdf

I guess it CAN be done without welding but I would not.
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