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Old 05-09-2014, 09:34 AM   #1
Jeremym27
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No Heat

I bought a new (to me) 2012 Keystone Passport Ultra Lite 3220BH and set it up at my campsite.

Everything works fine, except that I have no heat. I know the propane is on because the stove burners work.

I'm guessing that this is a pilot light issue, but am not positive.

Can anyone provide some direction as to how to light the pilot light and/or other potential solutions?
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Old 05-09-2014, 09:48 AM   #2
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Think I'd check the thermostat operation and settings first.
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Old 05-09-2014, 09:50 AM   #3
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Think I'd check the thermostat operation and settings first.
That's a good place to start. AFAIK, there shouldn't be any sort of standing / manually lit pilot light.

Also, do you know where the furnace in your unit is? Do you hear any noises coming from it? Normally there should be a fan that starts up prior to any ignition attempt.
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:23 AM   #4
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Jeremy -
As previously noted, there is nothing to light - no pilot to look for. I'd also check your thermostat to make sure it is set to AUTO and that the other settings are correct.
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Old 05-09-2014, 10:35 AM   #5
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Check your fuses and circuit breakers. When you turn the heat on and move the thermostat up, do you hear anything. The burner should try to light I think 3 times and if no gas it will shut down. If you hear the fan and clicks then it is a gas issue, if you hear nothing it is an electric issue or thermostat issue I would think.
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Old 05-12-2014, 12:41 PM   #6
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Thank you for the responses, I really appreciate it.

I have confirmed that all of the fuses are good and working.

On my model there are three thermostat settings: Off, Heat, Cool.

When I set it to Heat and put the setting at a higher temperature than it currently is in the camper I don't hear any noises or anything coming on.
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Old 05-12-2014, 12:50 PM   #7
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Could be a thermostat issue...

In your OP, you mention that "everything" works fine except the furnace. I assume this means you've used the air conditioner and it's working as expected (turn A/C on, lower the temp, A/C does indeed produce cold air, turn temp back up above room temp, A/C turns off).?.?

That won't guarantee it's not a thermostat issue, but would make it much less likely.

Also you said you checked all the fuses. What about all the circuit breakers?
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Old 05-12-2014, 02:10 PM   #8
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Here is the panel on a 2013 looks like fuse 5 is furnace 15 amp pull it and meter across pins i have seen a few magic fuses
Ok it is upside down do not know why also furnace is under fridge
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Old 05-12-2014, 03:09 PM   #9
Ken / Claudia
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Lets step back and make sure the propane tanks are full and turned on correctly. Check that propane is working the hot water tank and refer. Stove top burners are no test that propane is full or not.
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Old 05-12-2014, 03:52 PM   #10
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Stove top burners are no test that propane is full or not.
Propane flows from the tank(s) through the trailer to the stove. You light the propane as it flows out of the stove burner(s).

Can you please explain why this is not a valid test?
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Old 05-12-2014, 04:03 PM   #11
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Propane flows from the tank(s) through the trailer to the stove. You light the propane as it flows out of the stove burner(s).

Can you please explain why this is not a valid test?
It is a valid test. Propane is the same regulated pressure throughout the entire system. Once it leaves the regulator and goes to the black pipe manifold, there are no cutoffs, valves, or solenoids until it gets to each of the individual appliances.

As to the OPs problem, the furnace is controlled by 12VDC. If he hears no noise at all, that means the fan is not running either because of no 12VDC, a faulty controller, or a faulty fan. He should read 12VDC from the thermostat the furnace. That's what is switched from the thermostat. If 12V is there, then the problem is most likely a bad control board. If not, then the heater portion of the thermostat is bad.
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Old 05-12-2014, 04:08 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyCamperMN View Post
Propane flows from the tank(s) through the trailer to the stove. You light the propane as it flows out of the stove burner(s).

Can you please explain why this is not a valid test?
As Bob said, this is probably a 12VDC issue or a thermostat/control board problem, but to explain the comment made by another poster that checking gas flow with a stove burner is not a valid test, try to rationalize this:

The propane tanks and pigtails have "flow limiters" in them to shut down the flow of propane if there is a "large flow leak". When you turn on the propane tank too quickly it "can" (but not always) activate the flow limiter. When this happens, there is enough propane flowing to use the stove burners, oven and refrigerator (they use only a small amount of propane). However, with the flow limiters activated, there is not sufficient propane flowing into the trailer lines to sustain a flame in either the hot water heater or the furnace. Those two appliances use more propane than the flow limiter will allow.

So, turning on a stove burner will "test the availability of propane (in small quantities), but not in large quantities."

The simplest way to "fix" the potential "flow limiter problem" is to turn off both propane tanks, disconnect the pigtails from them, then reattach the pigtails, and SLOWLY turn on the propane tanks. (If you turn them on too fast, you can "reactivate the flow limiter")

Once you have the tanks turned on again, light the hot water heater. If it stays lit, the flow limiters are not engaged (propane functioning normally). If the HWH will light and burn, then retry the furnace.

Hope this makes sense to you.
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Old 05-12-2014, 04:22 PM   #13
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John, I'm going to have to disagree. All propane appliances run on a pressure of 11"WC. This is standard and the pressure is uniform throughout the manifold system. If there is enough pressure to support combustion on a stovetop, there is enough to light a furnace. A lot has been written on the Internet about the flow limiters, but those activate in the event of a ruptured gas line or an otherwise completely open system, and I really doubt that turning on a tank valve too fast when all of the trailers appliances are shut off would activate it. it does, however, provide material for a lot of Internet posts. I personally have never experienced it and I open my tank valves very quickly, but then......
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Old 05-12-2014, 04:39 PM   #14
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Bob, There's enough pressure but not enough volume of propane. Try it sometime when you are installing a new tank. Connect the pigtail (with no propane in the trailer lines) and turn on the tank valve quickly. The system will purge and one (maybe 2) stove burners will light and function. Turn on the HWH and it will light, the "auto changeover regulator" between the tanks will turn red and the HWH will "fizzle out".... There have been two or three posts about this on our forum in the past couple of months. The "remedy" to furnaces or HWH's that won't work has been to turn off the propane tanks, remove the pigtails (this resets the limiters) and then reattaching them and SLOWLY opening the tanks. I've had the same thing happen on our big grill at home. I installed a new regulator and "fussed through" a Saturday of no outdoor cooking only to find out that the pigtail limiter wasn't working. I could light one burner, but as soon as I lit the second one, they would both fizzle out and barely maintain a flame. The propane dealer (not the kid at the hardware store propane fill station) explained it to me much as I explained it here...

If the flow limiter is activated, very little propane (at 11" WC) will flow through the lines, It will maintain enough flow to run a low use burner, but it won't be enough volume to run the two "big users" (the HWH and the furnace).
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Old 05-12-2014, 04:56 PM   #15
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Bob, There's enough pressure but not enough volume of propane. Try it sometime when you are installing a new tank. Connect the pigtail (with no propane in the trailer lines) and turn on the tank valve quickly. The system will purge and one (maybe 2) stove burners will light and function. Turn on the HWH and it will light, the "auto changeover regulator" between the tanks will turn red and the HWH will "fizzle out".... There have been two or three posts about this on our forum in the past couple of months. The "remedy" to furnaces or HWH's that won't work has been to turn off the propane tanks, remove the pigtails (this resets the limiters) and then reattaching them and SLOWLY opening the tanks. I've had the same thing happen on our big grill at home. I installed a new regulator and "fussed through" a Saturday of no outdoor cooking only to find out that the pigtail limiter wasn't working. I could light one burner, but as soon as I lit the second one, they would both fizzle out and barely maintain a flame. The propane dealer (not the kid at the hardware store propane fill station) explained it to me much as I explained it here...

If the flow limiter is activated, very little propane (at 11" WC) will flow through the lines, It will maintain enough flow to run a low use burner, but it won't be enough volume to run the two "big users" (the HWH and the furnace).
JRTJH is correct it takes very little volume for a stove burner, even two would not equal the volume of either the water heater or the furnace. And a manometer does not measure volume, only pressure.

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Old 05-12-2014, 05:12 PM   #16
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Hopefully, the OP tried the second tank, if he has a dual tank setup. The likelihood of having two bad pigtails is pretty remote and if it is functioning properly, the 1/2" black pipe manifold and 3/8" tubing to the appliances should deliver more than enough gas. I have lit stove burners while using both 30K BTU burners on my CampChef with no problems.
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Old 05-12-2014, 07:34 PM   #17
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Bob,
The OP said NO Heat. maybe nothing on the furence is working but, I assumed again that all was working but, no heat. Again I assumed that he had maybe just turned on/off a burner to check for propane. I just made a test, my stove top burners, with the propane tanks shut off before I turned the stove top on, a stove top burner ran for about 3 mins. Thats my point. Sorry I missed the OP s #2 post, there he says he cannot hear anything working when the furnece is turned on, sounds more of a electrial issuse.. another bad board?
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Old 05-13-2014, 03:29 AM   #18
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Bob,
The OP said NO Heat. maybe nothing on the furence is working but, I assumed again that all was working but, no heat. Again I assumed that he had maybe just turned on/off a burner to check for propane. I just made a test, my stove top burners, with the propane tanks shut off before I turned the stove top on, a stove top burner ran for about 3 mins. Thats my point. Sorry I missed the OP s #2 post, there he says he cannot hear anything working when the furnece is turned on, sounds more of a electrial issuse.. another bad board?
We are all making assumptions that may or may not be correct. The OP did not give us a lot of information. He just said he doesn't have heat. This is typical of new owners who have not yet figured out how everything works. It's similar to asking why an air conditioner won't cool when it doesn't even turn on. Hopefully he will give a little more info.
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Old 05-13-2014, 08:56 AM   #19
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Bob, I agree 100%. It is difficult enough to talk with a person who asks a question and you need to ask questions back to help. On the web in is almost inpossible to be right due to missing facts. Being there, would be the best.
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Old 05-13-2014, 09:10 AM   #20
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I think the dealers and in some cases, priate sellers are responsible for a lot of this. When I did the walk through on my trailer, I was shown where thing were and how to operate them. There was no instruction or explanation on how things operate. Fortunately, my marine service background and a lot of reading enlightened me to the point that if I need to I can ask an intelligent answers.
The new and/or first time owner is lfe mostly with the Internet for information and while in some cases that's OK, we all know how that can turn out given the many people who for the most part, mean well but they do not have the expertise, background, or experience to offer helpful.
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