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Old 02-07-2014, 02:47 PM   #1
HandL
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Newbie Leveling Question

We are expecting to pick up our new Bullet 217 RBS next week. This may sound a little stupid but when leveling a trailer side to side with a double axle trailer do you need to ramp up both axles? I have seen several videos that show how to stack block or boards but they seem to only show one axle. We have a decent spread between axles but how would you ramp up both at the same time without making 5 foot 2 x 8's or having to use 20 stack-able blocks to ramp up both wheels?
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Old 02-07-2014, 02:55 PM   #2
Mark TC
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Be very careful pulling up on stacked long lumber, I had a 2x10 flip up and dent my Hideout. I now lay smaller pieces under each tire rather than one long piece for both tires.


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Old 02-07-2014, 03:01 PM   #3
Festus2
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While a single, long 5 ft length of 2x8 might sound like a good idea, I think most folks use two shorter length boards to accomplish the same thing and put one short board under each wheel. The problem with one long board is storage and weight.

I use cedar because it is light and withstands rot. I cut my lengths long enough so that the tire just sits on it with a bit of overhang. I also have cedar lengths of 1x8 since, in some cases, one side doesn't need to be raised 2 inches. These short lengths are stackable, easily stored in the back of the PU and lightweight.

Some folks might have a different system but these work for me. I also have the yellow lego pieces but prefer to use the wooden boards.

I always raise both axles the same amount.
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Old 02-07-2014, 03:21 PM   #4
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I've got three bags of the Lynx blocks. I really like them for leveling, plus they are light, easy for DW to handle and they store nicely. I'm probably going to pick up another bag before long and get rid of the heavy treated plywood leveling pads that I built.
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Old 02-07-2014, 03:39 PM   #5
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So far I haven't had to use more than one bag of Lynx blocks. Two would probably come in handy though as I use them for under the corner stabilizers also. If I have to level just a little I will use 1 block under one wheel, a little more 1 block under each wheel. I don't think it's good to put several blocks under 1 wheel only, keep both wheels jacked up close to the same amount.
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Old 02-07-2014, 03:48 PM   #6
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i agree. I use the same number of pads under each wheel. I've read threads where guys argued about just blocking up one wheel, but if the two axles float older the suspension, I don't see how blocking one wheel accomplishes anything. By the time the engineers jumped in with all of their formulas and theories, I pretty much lost interest and I just go do it my way.. LOL

Plus, I added four scissor jacks to my rig for shake, so I use the Lynx blocks for pads for those.
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Old 02-08-2014, 04:16 AM   #7
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Thanks for your responses. It seamed to me that using short ones was better but with the short distance between wheels I was a little confused about how to get the height needed on the second wheel. Say you want to pull forward onto your blocks and you need 3 blocks high. Easy enough to pull up on the front axle you have a lot of room to stretch out the blocks to get up on them. It just seems to be a short distance to get the rear axle to climb the same height in such a short distance. Am I to understand that climbing the blocks so fast just is not an issue?
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:31 AM   #8
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Blocking

Good morning from overcast Okeechobee Florida where regardless of the morning fog, by 10:30am, sun and on the way to 83 degrees. Yesterday resulted in a 10 mile bicycle trip along Lake Okeechobbe rim with full view of both the lake on one side and marsh on the other to a very nice fish camp for lunch....this retirement is ROUGH!
By the way, we did see a 7ft alligator sunning itself along the marsh bank. Have seen plenty of gators in and out of captivity over the years, but to see these reptiles in nature is always amazing.

On leveling, we use a combo of plastic stack blocks and one 3 ft, 3 level, plastic ramp sold at all major rv centers. Has worked well for us.
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:47 AM   #9
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I found this diagram and cut my blocks accordingly. I will say sometimes the blocks want to slip on each other. I am planning on adding stair tread non slip grit tape to help with that.
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Old 02-08-2014, 06:54 AM   #10
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Thank you Cabinfever..................... Visuals make a world of difference. Light bulb! Thanks to everyone.
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Old 02-08-2014, 07:45 AM   #11
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With the wide spacing on your axles this is really all you would ever need unless parking on the side of a hill..

You'll need two, one for front axle and one for the rear... I use them on my Passport which has the same axle configuration. Pretty inexpensive solution and available at most RV stores.
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Old 02-08-2014, 12:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Javi View Post
With the wide spacing on your axles this is really all you would ever need unless parking on the side of a hill..

You'll need two, one for front axle and one for the rear... I use them on my Passport which has the same axle configuration. Pretty inexpensive solution and available at most RV stores.
You are correct to use 2 of these, as the new trailers have the wider spacing between wheels.
What is the best method of chocking wheels when there are both raised?
I have shoved the rubber ones in, but not sure how much they work.
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Old 02-08-2014, 12:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charby View Post
You are correct to use 2 of these, as the new trailers have the wider spacing between wheels.
What is the best method of chalking wheels when there are both raised?
I have shoved the rubber ones in, but not sure how much they work.
I pull forward a little and then chock behind both raised wheels and behind one of the tires on the other side... then let the trailer roll back against the chocks... . doubt the trailer will roll uphill so no chocks in front...
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