F150 errors while long distance towing

[JulieC]

Hello,

I plan to post this on the Ford forum as well, but since this issue only comes up while towing, I thought there might be some folks here that have encountered similar problems.

We have a 2019 Ford F-150 crew cab with 3.5L V6 eco boost, 4WD. About 10K miles on the truck. When towing our Premier Bullet 26UDPR on longer trips, we suddenly get multiple errors such as “Hill Start Assist” fault, “Advance Trac” fault, “Pre Collision Assist” fault. In addition, the tow haul icon is no longer showing active, though the truck seems to be functioning as though tow-haul is working. Turning off the truck and disconnecting the trailer for about 5 minutes seems to reset the system, and then it may run normally for several hours.

At first I thought the problem was connected to the use of a Furrion camera that we added, because the only time the errors happen is on long trips, and we generally do not plug the camera in if just on a short trip of a couple of hours or less. However, it happened for the second time during our current trip after unplugging the camera.

Calls to the dealer have been unfruitful, so we plan to take it in after we get home from a 14 hour drive from Wisconsin back to Oklahoma this weekend.

Has anyone here experienced this problem?

Happy trails,

Julie

[flybouy]

By "calls to dealer" do you mean a Ford dealer? The Ford dealer should be able to connect a diagnostic tool to the truck's computer and find out what's going on. Were you under a heavy load other than the near 1K hitch weight? Heavy headwinds, lots of long grade pulling? High speed driving (say excess of 70 mph) for extended time? Sounds to me like some transmission antics with the computer going on but that's strictly a guess.

[JulieC]

Yes, the first time it happened we called several Ford dealers near Galveston where we had been camping, but no one could get us in for at least two weeks so we went home to Oklahoma. My husband never got around to scheduling to have it checked out before our current trip.

We never go over 65 mph unless accidental, don’t recall heavy headwinds and no long grades. We will double check our weights. We tend to take more “stuff” on longer trips, but we have no handling issues (we use an Equalizer wdh) and no apparent strain with the truck. I will encourage my husband to go to a scale at some point to see what our true weights are.

Thanks for the reply.

Julie

[sourdough]

I don't own a Ford and have quit buying them but we have a lot of owners on the forum that own the EcoBoost so they may have some insight. I did have a Ram several years back that did something similar and drove me crazy. It finally started going into a limp mode. It was a computer issue as I recall and they tried reflashing it and eventually replaced the ECU...I think?

[NH_Bulldog]

I have the same set-up as you, but without the newer “driver assist” options and have had no issues. It sounds like a computer issue, maybe related to the trailer, maybe related to the transmission or maybe related to a combination of things. A Ford dealer can diagnose the issue and narrow it down for you.

[meaz93*]

I have a `14 F150 EcoBoost and have never had any of that shenanigans going on?
I run a OBDII Bluetooth Scan Tool with the Android app Torque Pro to monitor things at all times.
Id take it in for warranty documentation.
Sounds like a loose connection somewhere...maybe check around and under the battery box? ( I had a loosey goosey there once!)
Happy Camping!

[JulieC]

Originally Posted by JulieC

Hello,

I plan to post this on the Ford forum as well, but since this issue only comes up while towing, I thought there might be some folks here that have encountered similar problems.

We have a 2019 Ford F-150 crew cab with 3.5L V6 eco boost, 4WD. About 10K miles on the truck. When towing our Premier Bullet 26UDPR on longer trips, we suddenly get multiple errors such as “Hill Start Assist” fault, “Advance Trac” fault, “Pre Collision Assist” fault. In addition, the tow haul icon is no longer showing active, though the truck seems to be functioning as though tow-haul is working. Turning off the truck and disconnecting the trailer for about 5 minutes seems to reset the system, and then it may run normally for several hours.

At first I thought the problem was connected to the use of a Furrion camera that we added, because the only time the errors happen is on long trips, and we generally do not plug the camera in if just on a short trip of a couple of hours or less. However, it happened for the second time during our current trip after unplugging the camera.

Calls to the dealer have been unfruitful, so we plan to take it in after we get home from a 14 hour drive from Wisconsin back to Oklahoma this weekend.

Has anyone here experienced this problem?

Happy trails,

Julie

Update:
I searched around the F150 forums and come up with a couple of possibilities, one of them being this issue that two people experienced:

“While towing, accelerating from a stop and making a strong right hand turn caused this condition to occur. We both are using a weight distribution hitch, different brands, but similar 4 point anti-sway design on our travel trailer setup. He is using an Equal-I-Zer brand and I'm using a Husky Centerline TS WDH. Both of our hitches are the "L" bracket design where the spring bars slide on the L bracket and provide sway control. The problem occurs when these bars are cranked to tight and don't slide smoothly, especially during full right or left turns. This causes the truck's traction control (AdvanceTrac) to engage and try to counter the effects of the resistance caused by the spring bars. When it gets too much for AdvanceTrac to handle, it shuts off thus the message. When it is off so are cruise control, hill start assist and drive modes. What you are feeling in the steering probably isn't the truck, but rather the WDH binding and pushing the truck from behind.”

Showed this to my husband, and he admitted he had not greased the hitch bars in some time. We bought some grease and applied it this morning before departing for home. So far 6 hours with no issue (and have made a few sharp turns).

I am hopeful that the grease has solved the problem!

Thanks to those that offered input.

Julie

[Fishsizzle]

If you grease the bars wouldn’t you be defeating the purpose of the sway control? On our Fastway hitch it stated never grease the bars.

We never had issues on our 2015 F150 but our 2009 traction control would kick in when I was trying to get from on ramp to freeway if I took the curve at what the truck thought was “to fast”

In the towing info center in the dash display, have you tried unchecking the sway control box? Maybe the truck is trying to control sway but you are already controlling it with the bars, thus It is a conflict between the two.

On our 09, I started to turn off ASC or traction control while towing. Again, I felt the truck was trying to think it was smarter than me when towing LOL

[Logan X]

Greasing the L brackets does not reduce sway control. The sway control is produced by the massive downward force the spring bars are exerting on the L brackets. Where else in engineering is something designed to have metal on metal friction with no lubrication? No where because that doesn’t make sense.

I personally grease the pivot points on the hitch head and the L brackets (on an Equalizer 4 point)

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Logan X

Greasing the L brackets does not reduce sway control. The sway control is produced by the massive downward force the spring bars are exerting on the L brackets. Where else in engineering is something designed to have metal on metal friction with no lubrication? No where because that doesn’t make sense.

I personally grease the pivot points on the hitch head and the L brackets (on an Equalizer 4 point)

I have a Reese Straight Line sway control hitch. The sway/WD bars set on a "saddle" t5hat is a metal to metal contact and the instructions are NO lubrication at that contact point.

[Logan X]

Originally Posted by flybouy

I have a Reese Straight Line sway control hitch. The sway/WD bars set on a "saddle" t5hat is a metal to metal contact and the instructions are NO lubrication at that contact point.

To each their own for sure, and the only thing I can speak to is the Equalizer brand. Equalizer also says not to grease the L brackets but when I contacted them about it they said greasing the L brackets does not affect sway control. They say not to grease there because it can get messy. Equalizer also sells a plastic cover which goes over the L bracket to reduce friction.

I’m not a big fan of the noise the metal on metal contact makes when making a tight turn, so I use grease and the problem is solved. It sounds like this might also solve the OP’s problem.

[NH_Bulldog]

For the record, Equalizer specifically recommends NOT lubricating the L-brackets. They do recommend lubricating the pivot points at the head, but that’s it. The metal to metal friction IS all the sway control there is on an E2 hitch and half the sway control on the E4 hitch. Equalizer does recommend sway bracket “jackets” instead.

The friction of the metal to metal connection at the sway brackets is your sway control. If you grease it, you no longer have adequate friction and you no longer have the meaningful sway control you paid for. Yes it makes noise, and yes it is annoying. This is precisely why I didn’t buy an Equalizer set-up.

If someone has said to grease something that they say shouldn’t be greased, get it in writing because it will come in handy for the lawsuit down the road.

It’s not just talk. I deal extensively with product liability issues. The first thing I ask for when I start my investigation is to see the manufacturer’s instructions. If you knowingly act contrary to those instructions, you are immediately liable if you are the one getting sued, and your case gets tossed if you are the one suing. It may or may not happen, but product liability cases run into the millions of dollars.....is it worth the risk?

[Fishsizzle]

Also per Fastway

Sway Control
Sway control is a built-in, patent pending feature of your e2 hitch. Unlike old chain style weight distribution hitches, which do not provide sway control, you do not need to purchase, install, store, or hook up any additional hardware to get sway control. You can back up without disengaging the hitch. Once the spring bars are tensioned, the sway control is in force.
Built-in sway control on the e2 hitch works through the connection between your weight distribution bars and L-brackets. The force required by the hitch to distribute weight rests on the L-brackets through the spring bars. The e2 hitch takes advantage of the steel-on-steel friction generated at these points to defend against trailer sway.
This added friction makes it difficult for the trailer to sway side-to-side while it’s being towed, as sometimes happens when you encounter a gust of wind or pass a semi-truck. When set up correctly and properly adjusted for your load, the e2 hitch will noticeably reduce sway.


The sway control relies on the friction. Without it, it’s just a weight distribution hitch

[Logan X]

Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog

For the record, Equalizer specifically recommends NOT lubricating the L-brackets. They do recommend lubricating the pivot points at the head, but that’s it. The metal to metal friction IS all the sway control there is on an E2 hitch and half the sway control on the E4 hitch. Equalizer does recommend sway bracket “jackets” instead.

The friction of the metal to metal connection at the sway brackets is your sway control. If you grease it, you no longer have adequate friction and you no longer have the meaningful sway control you paid for. Yes it makes noise, and yes it is annoying. This is precisely why I didn’t buy an Equalizer set-up.

If someone has said to grease something that they say shouldn’t be greased, get it in writing because it will come in handy for the lawsuit down the road.

It’s not just talk. I deal extensively with product liability issues. The first thing I ask for when I start my investigation is to see the manufacturer’s instructions. If you knowingly act contrary to those instructions, you are immediately liable if you are the one getting sued, and your case gets tossed if you are the one suing. It may or may not happen, but product liability cases run into the millions of dollars.....is it worth the risk?

If the metal to metal friction is required for sway control, then why do they sell plastic covers to reduce the friction?

Here it is, in writing, from Equalizer...

[Logan X]

Originally Posted by Fishsizzle

Also per Fastway

Sway Control
Sway control is a built-in, patent pending feature of your e2 hitch. Unlike old chain style weight distribution hitches, which do not provide sway control, you do not need to purchase, install, store, or hook up any additional hardware to get sway control. You can back up without disengaging the hitch. Once the spring bars are tensioned, the sway control is in force.
Built-in sway control on the e2 hitch works through the connection between your weight distribution bars and L-brackets. The force required by the hitch to distribute weight rests on the L-brackets through the spring bars. The e2 hitch takes advantage of the steel-on-steel friction generated at these points to defend against trailer sway.
This added friction makes it difficult for the trailer to sway side-to-side while it’s being towed, as sometimes happens when you encounter a gust of wind or pass a semi-truck. When set up correctly and properly adjusted for your load, the e2 hitch will noticeably reduce sway.


The sway control relies on the friction. Without it, it’s just a weight distribution hitch

I have only researched Equalizer brand, but I think the principle is the same.


I think what I’m saying is the sway control is not produced by the metal on metal rubbing back and forth friction. The sway control is produced by the downward force of the loaded bars sitting on the bracket. Again, if sliding or rubbing friction is required for sway control, then why does Equalizer sell a plastic cover to reduce the sliding friction? Please see my previous post, #14, containing an email from Equalizer for confirmation of this.

[JulieC]

OP here...We have the 4-point Equalizer. Quoting from the owner’s manual:

“The friction surfaces of the head and sockets should be kept clean
and well lubricated with Equal-i-zer® high performance lubricant. They
should be lubricated before each trip. Check for damage or abnormal wear
at the beginning of each towing day and replace if necessary. Use a rag to
clean dirt and road grit from all friction surfaces regularly.”

After greasing the proper areas, we made the 13-14 hour trip home with no more issues. I do wonder, though, if we should try to disengage some of the affected features when towing.

Julie

[skids]

Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog

For the record, Equalizer specifically recommends NOT lubricating the L-brackets. They do recommend lubricating the pivot points at the head, but that’s it. The metal to metal friction IS all the sway control there is on an E2 hitch and half the sway control on the E4 hitch. Equalizer does recommend sway bracket “jackets” instead.

The friction of the metal to metal connection at the sway brackets is your sway control. If you grease it, you no longer have adequate friction and you no longer have the meaningful sway control you paid for. Yes it makes noise, and yes it is annoying. This is precisely why I didn’t buy an Equalizer set-up.

If someone has said to grease something that they say shouldn’t be greased, get it in writing because it will come in handy for the lawsuit down the road.

It’s not just talk. I deal extensively with product liability issues. The first thing I ask for when I start my investigation is to see the manufacturer’s instructions. If you knowingly act contrary to those instructions, you are immediately liable if you are the one getting sued, and your case gets tossed if you are the one suing. It may or may not happen, but product liability cases run into the millions of dollars.....is it worth the risk?

I have the Fastway E2 1000/10000 hitch with the L type spring bars. I follow the Mfgrs instructions for lube (never lube the flat ends of the spring bars) and mine makes zero noise. I am happy with the set-up.

[calbroome]

I have a 2017 F150 with the same set up. I am also getting those Code warnings . I disconnect then reconnect and all is good. For a while. I can’t get my truck in to the Ford dealer for two weeks. They added my brake controller, possibly the computer did not get coded correctly.

[calbroome]

I have the same problem. I plan to take it in to a Ford dealer in July. I disconnect and reconnect my trailer and the warnings stop. I made one short trip with no warning, then it has done it again. They installed a. Brake controller, may be a program issue. If you get an answer i sure would like to know

[kjohn]

Interesting. We have a 2020 F150 and a Husky WD/SC hitch. I got the "message" once when coming down off an overpass. Drove it home like that. Never had it again during a 1300 mile tour since then. I realize, after reading the above thread, that I likely have the sway bar pivot bolts too tight. I will loosen them up a bit and put a wee bit of lube on them.
I am satisfied with my Husky. It was relatively simple to install and adjust. I pulled our 21 RBS home about 90 miles on a side wind day, without a WD. That was fun! Not long before I bought a WD. Tows decently now.


**Note: I am NOT going to say, "Hardly know it's behind."



Thanks to the people who shared their experience. Great help.