Ideas for capping off W/D connections

[sully585]

I’ve developed a leak in the hot water connector of my W/D connection area in the front closet. I’ve tried multiple different things to stop the leak to no avail. My fix right now is putting a towel next to it to soak up water and changing it out once a day. Since we don’t use the W/D connection and have no plans to, I thought about just cutting the lines back at the water connection center and capping the pex lines with shark bite end caps.

Does anybody see a problem with this? I figured if I sell it I can just replace the shark bite end caps with junctions to restore water supply to the W/D.

The main reason I want to do this is because it’s easier than trying to dismantle the closet wall to access the W/D water lines. Would be a giant PITA

[bsmith0404]

It’s a simple hose connection, should be able to put a gasket and cap on it and solve your problem. Lowe’s and Home Depot sell them for under $2

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-3-4-in-Threaded-Hose-Caps-2-Pack-27902/100659301

[sully585]

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

It’s a simple hose connection, should be able to put a gasket and cap on it and solve your problem. Lowe’s and Home Depot sell them for under $2

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Orbit-3-...7902/100659301

i thought the same thing, basically just capping off a hose in effect. i put a hose cap and gasket on the connection and it didn't solve the problem so i guess the water is coming from some other part of the valve. i've wiped down the connector and tried to see where the water is coming from but it's a very slow leak. a few drops per hour at most.

[LHaven]

Do you have a picture? I'm wondering why it's not possible to just unscrew an escutcheon plate, pull the valve and tubing slightly out of the wall, and replace it?

[sully585]

Originally Posted by LHaven

Do you have a picture? I'm wondering why it's not possible to just unscrew an escutcheon plate, pull the valve and tubing slightly out of the wall, and replace it?

i'm at work but will post a pic tomorrow

[JRTJH]

Several years ago, a couple of members were trying to disconnect their W/D connections as they said they'd NEVER use them. One member cut the PEX lines at the "T" where they branched off from the water lines in the front storage compartment (behind the water heater). He used a "SharkBite valve" and just left it turned off at the valve in the storage compartment.

[bsmith0404]

It most likely has a very slow leak around the valve. As mentioned you can cap the line off at the origin where it splits in the basement or you could replace the valve assembly. Personally, I’d probably cap it in the basement. I hate the fact that I have water lines That will never get used creating a potential leak running through the walls of my RV. They’re also a pain to winterize. Can’t just open the valve and let it run down the drain like the sinks and shower.

[Brentw]

My valves failed around the valve stems, replaced them with a house hold wash machine valves. Only concern I see with capping the line further back would be winterizing, without a valve to let air in when you drain the lines, they may not fully drain.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by bsmith0404

It most likely has a very slow leak around the valve. As mentioned you can cap the line off at the origin where it splits in the basement or you could replace the valve assembly. Personally, I’d probably cap it in the basement. I hate the fact that I have water lines That will never get used creating a potential leak running through the walls of my RV. They’re also a pain to winterize. Can’t just open the valve and let it run down the drain like the sinks and shower.

I don't see the great increase in potential for those 2 extra lines to leak. As for winterising, if it's prepped for a W/D would it not also have a drain line in the space? A cheap set of washing machine hoses would probably reach the drain.

I would fix the leak so when it's time for resale you don't have an issue with something that doesn't work.

[bsmith0404]

Originally Posted by flybouy

I don't see the great increase in potential for those 2 extra lines to leak. As for winterising, if it's prepped for a W/D would it not also have a drain line in the space? A cheap set of washing machine hoses would probably reach the drain.

I would fix the leak so when it's time for resale you don't have an issue with something that doesn't work.

Those two extra lines have joints and fittings. We’ve seen RVs come into the shop leaking inside the wall from W/D lines. Not a normal thing to see, but does happen. And yes there is a drain there and a short hose can help with winterizing, but that’s just one more thing to keep around or have to find when I do it. Not used any other time. If I capped off the lines further down in the basement, it could easily be switched back when selling it.