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Old 10-28-2019, 04:25 PM   #1
Sarge2
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Not sure if this is the proper forum...

I have found that my dump valves are recessed awfully far under my 2020 Passport 2600... so much so that I need to lie down to unscrew the cap...as you can imagine, lying on a dump station pad is not "ideal". I used cheap tarps to do it. General RV said that there is nothing I can do about it... they don't have extension... Amazon sells a number of them but my concern is having the extension come off the dump valve when I try to take remove the cap...like it would unscrew the adapter from the valve instead of the cap.... is there a way to secure an extension so that doesn't happen? Any ideas would be appreciated... I'd like to get it close to the outside of the TT...
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Old 10-28-2019, 06:47 PM   #2
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If you could post a photo of how your valve handles are mounted it would help. Mine are mounted through the frame rail, between the J-wrap and the frame. To access them, I had to "get on my knees or lay down" to reach under the J-wrap, then up to the handle.

I fixed mine by installing an access door in the J-wrap. Simply open the door, the valves are "right there in front of you". Here's a photo of my mod. If yours are different, please post that photo and someone will no doubt, have an easy fix.
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Old 10-28-2019, 07:57 PM   #3
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You should have some type of clear extension anyway, so you can see when tank is draining clean. Try to find a clear extension the right length to make it more comfortable to remove the cap but still not be vulnerable to damage. Once you are sure you are comfortable with it I would imagine you could secure it with ABS cement. Since the two pieces will be made of different materials you may have to use an adhesive that will bond both together. I used a 90 degree clear elbow and turned it towards the rear to maintain ground clearance and did not have to glue anything. JM2˘, Hank
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Old 10-29-2019, 03:42 AM   #4
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I agree on the pipe extension and keep a clear one on mine. I wouldn't "glue" or otherwise permanently affix it. What happens if you need to replace it? A solution to the extension not coming off with the hose or cap is to use a 45 or 90 on the end. If the cap and or hose connections are offset then "rotational movement" will stop at the offset.
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Old 10-29-2019, 06:17 AM   #5
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You could try placing a Gates hose clamp around the bayonet ears on the extension. I did that on my bayonet style "last chance" dump valve and the valve will no longer rotate and come off when I remove the dump hose.
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Old 10-29-2019, 07:35 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jsmith948 View Post
You could try placing a Gates hose clamp around the bayonet ears on the extension. I did that on my bayonet style "last chance" dump valve and the valve will no longer rotate and come off when I remove the dump hose.
Have done the same on all my RVs. When it needs replaced loosen clamp & viola.
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Old 10-29-2019, 01:54 PM   #7
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I appreciate the suggestions.... Both are mounted under the exterior of the TT.. no doors or hatches.... the rear black water and gray water is visible, (still have to bend down to reach under it) the front gray tank dump is not even visible without lying down at the edge of the trailer and reaching in to uncap it... I have ordered two from Amazon.... one 5" clear for the rear black and gray tanks as that will bring it out just inside the edge of the unit...and a 9" clear for the front gray tank... that should bring it within reach to get cap off...
The valves are long and I can reach them without too much problem Although I could use a bit of an extension on the front gray tank handle as it's under quite a bit as well....
I haven't taken any photos but I will... before and after....
Thanks again for all the responses....
Sarge
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Old 10-30-2019, 02:30 AM   #8
kksfish
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John

Great idea on installing a door for access to the valves! Such a simple fix I never thought of doing that.....
Heading to Gulf Shores in a few weeks so I know what I will be doing when I return!
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Old 10-30-2019, 07:46 AM   #9
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Here's the hatch I used: https://www.amazon.com/JR-Products-2...2450043&sr=8-3 There are other "cheaper versions" available, some with a power cable cutout (I found those break easily)...

When you get ready to install it, measure twice, then measure again BEFORE YOU CUT !!!!! There is a "steel beam perimeter behind the FILON/J-wrap molding. That beam extends down about 2" below the molding on my trailer, so cutting it "close to the top of the J-wrap would have spelled disaster in trying to install the door (not to mention that the steel beam would have blocked the opening)... So, choose your location carefully and make sure that the area behind the J-wrap is entirely open BEFORE YOU CUT !!!!!
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Old 10-31-2019, 01:50 AM   #10
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John

Appreciate the advice...and I will measure twice before I cut!
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Old 10-31-2019, 08:08 AM   #11
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John

Appreciate the advice...and I will measure twice before I cut!
If you look at my first photo in my post above, you can see that steel beam (covered by DARCO). It extends down MUCH more than I suspected and I had to "modify" the access door so it would fit around the steel beam.
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Old 11-10-2019, 08:55 AM   #12
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Have done the same on all my RVs. When it needs replaced loosen clamp & viola.
That's what I do, fixes the problem.
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Old 11-10-2019, 07:15 PM   #13
Gunny Mike
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I use a harbor freight strap wrench to get my cap off since it was two hand operation.
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