Progressive EMS security suggestions

[Pull Toy]

I’m looking for suggestions for securing my portable EMS to the pedestal. Never had a problem yet, but it seems like there is a new breed of campers out there in the past few years.

Thanks,

[sourdough]

Steve I think it depends a lot on how and where you camp. I don't use anything on my portable EMS and never have but, as you mention, the "campers" are changing. I've not thought it was going to walk off anywhere I've been but I stay in regular RV campgrounds and don't boondock.

That said I have thought about it. Realizing that there's nothing you can do if someone wants it bad enough and has the proper tools the only thing you can accomplish is to deter the thief of convenience who wants to take it just because it's there and all he has to do is unplug it.

If I ever do it I'm just going to take 1/4" steel cable, loop it around the EMS cable and swage it closed. I'm going to make a loop on the other end to wrap around the power ped then lock it. A deterrence but not theft proof by any means which I don't think you can do. Example; I decided to secure new ebikes after the purchase. The chains for 2 bikes, associated locks and locks on the bikes are approx. 40lbs., unwieldy and can still be defeated given the right person and tools. You can only do so much.

[locomech]

I use a Master bike cable to secure my portable Hughs Watchdog EMS to the pedestal, and have fashioned a cover to block the bright face of the unit to deter bringing attention to it.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Amazon sells a small metal cage that can hold the EMS and be chained down with a bicycle cable.

[dutchmensport]

I have a Progressive P-50 portable model and it comes with a flat metal ring with a hole in it so a bicycle cable can go through it. The cable is then wrapped around the power pole (tight) and it would take some effort to get the thing off. If the wire itself is cut, the EMS is now ruined. I've not had any issues with this one.

I did have a 30 amp Progressive portable come up missing once. I never figured out what happened to it. It just disappeared.

After that I found the spot inside the trailer where the electric cord fed into the trailer (Mouse hole style). I cut the cord inside the trailer, installed new plugs into everything and then I could simply plug the "new" 30 amp in, which was now completely inside the camper. The only thing exposed outside the Mouse Hole was the male end of the protector plug.

This worked great until we got the Montana. It didn't have any place to conveniently install a portable inside the camper, and I absolutely did not want to go with a hard wire. I wanted to be able to disconnect the EMS at random will any time I wanted. So, I never wanted a hard wired.

Many folks use a hard wired EMS inside their campers. If you are really worried about theft, then this is the way to go.

Here's a photo of how I did it with my previous travel trailer:

[NH_Bulldog]

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

I have a Progressive P-50 portable model and it comes with a flat metal ring with a hole in it so a bicycle cable can go through it. The cable is then wrapped around the power pole (tight) and it would take some effort to get the thing off. If the wire itself is cut, the EMS is now ruined. I've not had any issues with this one.

I did have a 30 amp Progressive portable come up missing once. I never figured out what happened to it. It just disappeared.

After that I found the spot inside the trailer where the electric cord fed into the trailer (Mouse hole style). I cut the cord inside the trailer, installed new plugs into everything and then I could simply plug the "new" 30 amp in, which was now completely inside the camper. The only thing exposed outside the Mouse Hole was the male end of the protector plug.

This worked great until we got the Montana. It didn't have any place to conveniently install a portable inside the camper, and I absolutely did not want to go with a hard wire. I wanted to be able to disconnect the EMS at random will any time I wanted. So, I never wanted a hard wired.

Many folks use a hard wired EMS inside their campers. If you are really worried about theft, then this is the way to go.

Here's a photo of how I did it with my previous travel trailer:

That’s just a Surge-Guard, not an EMS ($60-$70 vs. $250-$300). I like the idea, but if I was going to go through that much trouble, I would just install a hardwired Progressive EMS.

Anyway, to the OP: find a cable lock to run through the ring on the device and wrap around the pedestal a few times. Like most anything, it will only keep honest thieves from stealing it. If they want it, they will get it. The best defense is being friendly to your neighbors so if they see something out of the ordinary they will speak up

[dutchmensport]

Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog

That’s just a Surge-Guard, not an EMS ($60-$70 vs. $250-$300). ...

It's an old photo of a previous trailer. That Surge Guard was replaced with a 30 amp Hughes Autofoamer actually not a 30 amp Progressive. The one that came up "missing" was a 30 amp Progressive. The one I have now is a 50 amp EMS Progressive portable.



I still prefer the portable version over the hard wired version. When we traded our previous trailer (the photo above), all I had to was unplug the "Hughes" at that time and keep it.

I'm glad I did, because we have found ourselves at some campgrounds that had only 30 amp service. I like to pull out the 30 amp Hughes now and plug it and the the adapters to step up the connections from 30 amp to the 50 amp plug for the camper.

Even with a 30 amp outlet, power surges and such can happen. I'd rather have 30 amp protection plugged into a 30 amp receptacle instead of 50 amp protection plugged into a 30 amp receptacle. With 30 amp only service, power management inside the camper is an absolute must, and takes adjustments when you're use to running on 50. But 20 years of 30 amp RV's experience and it's no problem doing that. We adjust.

A portable unit affords more flexibility, but yes it is exposed to theft vunerability. Thus the bicycle cable ring to lock it up. It won't stop a good thief, but it will discourage semi-honest people.

In the photo above (this post), you can see the silver ring where the cable goes through. By the way, this is my RV outlet at home.

And just an FYI ... I went through 2 Surge Guards before I learned they were junk. My first (used on our first travel trailer ... a Dutchmen Sport) lasted 1 year, got "hit" and died. Threw it away. Got the first (small) Progressive. It came up missing. Got the second Surge Guard, in the phot above, wanted something cheap .... and it was cheap. Again, lasted about 6 months and died. Surge Guard offers no warranty, replacements, or give a crap about anything after the sale is made. Next one was a Hughes AutoFoamer, and 2 weeks after getting the AutoFoamer, we traded for our current 50 amp Montana. So we kept the AutoFoamer, unplugged from the previous travel trailer (an Outback) and kept it and picked up the 50 amp Progressive. The 50 amp Progressive has shut down the trailer multiple times now over the last 4 years, detected all sorts of power problems at different campgrounds we've been at, and definately has been worth its weight in gold. The Hughes AutoFoamer has worked great too. At least I think it has. It doesn't get used near as much, but it's worked flawless when we have used it. And yes, I agree. There is a big difference between a "surge protector" and an EMS.

But after all this is said and done, my idea does provide an alternative for the original poster how he can use a "portable" protector and keep it from getting stolen.

[mikec557]

Originally Posted by Pull Toy

I’m looking for suggestions for securing my portable EMS to the pedestal. Never had a problem yet, but it seems like there is a new breed of campers out there in the past few years.

Thanks,

Having worked with or around criminals I can say they are opprtunists. That said, first try to NOT let them know it's there. I bought a tongue jack cover either through Walmart or Amazon (denier nylon). Cut a slit at the top to feed the 30/50 Amp plug through. It will block from view the flashing red light display. Also buy a master brand cable lock with a built-in letters combination dial. It fit through the hole on the metal security tag on the EMS. Wrap that around the pedestal. Yes, a determined theif can still get it. But they're looking for easy targets so you'll probably be fine.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

I have a Progressive P-50 portable model and it comes with a flat metal ring with a hole in it so a bicycle cable can go through it. The cable is then wrapped around the power pole (tight) and it would take some effort to get the thing off. If the wire itself is cut, the EMS is now ruined. I've not had any issues with this one.

I did have a 30 amp Progressive portable come up missing once. I never figured out what happened to it. It just disappeared.

After that I found the spot inside the trailer where the electric cord fed into the trailer (Mouse hole style). I cut the cord inside the trailer, installed new plugs into everything and then I could simply plug the "new" 30 amp in, which was now completely inside the camper. The only thing exposed outside the Mouse Hole was the male end of the protector plug.

This worked great until we got the Montana. It didn't have any place to conveniently install a portable inside the camper, and I absolutely did not want to go with a hard wire. I wanted to be able to disconnect the EMS at random will any time I wanted. So, I never wanted a hard wired.

Many folks use a hard wired EMS inside their campers. If you are really worried about theft, then this is the way to go.

Here's a photo of how I did it with my previous travel trailer:

I don’t understand the dislike of hard wired EMS. We have a hard wired Progressive Industry’s EMS, the remote display has a bypass switch that will bypass the EMS.
So many are worried about wet electrical connections, yet portable units put the connection in the rain and on the ground.

[chuckster57]

I have the 30A hardwired with remote display. Too easy to see the issue (if there is one ) from the comfort of inside the trailer.

[travelin texans]

Used the PI 50 amp EMS portable fulltime for 10+ years, it never walked away & was never locked.
Whether hardwired or portable the main thing to take away from this conversation is GET AN EMS ASAP, not just a surge protector & have it in use every time everywhere you power up the rv.
IMHO the EMS & an adjustable water pressure regulator should be mandatory equipment required with every rv.
I choose the portable for 2 reasons, #1 I knew we would trade rvs at least once. #2 to install the hardwired would've required clearing the 5er basement then laying on my fat belly in a very awkward position in a cramped black hole for an hour or so during installation & then repeat at least twice to remove & reinstall in the next 5er or buy another which still had to be installed.
Whereas the portable is connected & powered up in about 3 minutes & easily moved to the next rv.

[sourdough]

The choice of what type of EMS one chooses is a personal decision like anything else...diesel vs gas, Ram/GM/Ford etc. come to mind. Matters not what I think about any of it, that decision belongs to the one making it.

I've used a portable for years and intend to do so going forward. Cannot make the effort to install/remove them equate to the benefit. The ONLY benefit I see from one is the inside monitor (I'm not worried about theft or water intrusion after all these years). Surge Guard now makes one (portable) with a remote monitor and lifetime warranty. The only work required is to plug it in - that will be the next one when I buy another.

[Camping family]

Originally Posted by Pull Toy

I’m looking for suggestions for securing my portable EMS to the pedestal. Never had a problem yet, but it seems like there is a new breed of campers out there in the past few years.

Thanks,

All depends on what kind you have. Mine has a metal ring attached to it. You can use a bicycle lock attach it to the ring then secure it to the power poll at the camp ground. Can it be stolen, sure but they have to work for it. Thieves are lazy and look for opportunity. Make it a little harder and they will look elsewhere for one that is easy.

[Gkri]

We have the portable Progressive EMS and use a cable and lock designed for securing a pump action shotgun. It was free from the local police department.

[Camping family]

Originally Posted by Gkri

We have the portable Progressive EMS and use a cable and lock designed for securing a pump action shotgun. It was free from the local police department.

Good ideal

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

Used the PI 50 amp EMS portable fulltime for 10+ years, it never walked away & was never locked.
Whether hardwired or portable the main thing to take away from this conversation is GET AN EMS ASAP, not just a surge protector & have it in use every time everywhere you power up the rv.
IMHO the EMS & an adjustable water pressure regulator should be mandatory equipment required with every rv.
I choose the portable for 2 reasons, #1 I knew we would trade rvs at least once. #2 to install the hardwired would've required clearing the 5er basement then laying on my fat belly in a very awkward position in a cramped black hole for an hour or so during installation & then repeat at least twice to remove & reinstall in the next 5er or buy another which still had to be installed.
Whereas the portable is connected & powered up in about 3 minutes & easily moved to the next rv.

Had a cheap water pressure regulator to start with, started to act up so tossed in the corner of the basement. Well went to host at a new day use park, only unit in the park. When first hooked up toilet wouldn’t flush, unless I opened the bathroom faucet. I dug in the basement and installed the old cheap regulator and problem solved. Asked Ranger if he knew what the pressure in the park was, and he thought between 80 to 100 psi.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

Had a cheap water pressure regulator to start with, started to act up so tossed in the corner of the basement. Well went to host at a new day use park, only unit in the park. When first hooked up toilet wouldn’t flush, unless I opened the bathroom faucet. I dug in the basement and installed the old cheap regulator and problem solved. Asked Ranger if he knew what the pressure in the park was, and he thought between 80 to 100 psi.

We've been to couple different places that warned you at check in not to connect to their spigot at the site without a real true regulator, not that cheap a## restrictor, as they were not responsible for your rv water lines if you did not heed their warning. Couple had big orange warning signs at the spigot so there was absolutely no question that you had been warned.
Even then some added the regulator at the rv not the spigot, in a while their hose looked like a snake had swallowed a bowling ball just before it blew.

[JRTJH]

One section of the Marquette Tourist Park campground sits directly behind the city vehicle maintenance facility and an industrial complex which is adjacent to the NMU campus. There is a sign on the campground office door warning of 'high water pressure in parts of the campground that may exceed 110 PSI"

We were set up in a site behind the bath house, next to the fence line. I put a pressure gauge on the faucet and got a reading of 135 PSI. Being the curious type, I left the pressure gauge on the faucet, installed my regulator to that gauge and then the hose to the regulator (set at 40 PSI). That was around 2PM or so on a weekday. That evening, when the industrial complex was shut down, the pressure gauge steadily started rising and around 10PM, was at 160 PSI.

I'm no expert in city water systems, but I attributed the "after work pressure increase" to the "shutdown of water use behind the fence"...

IMO, 135PSI is way too high for most RV's and to see that kind of increase as industrial use declined, would put any RV plumbing system "to the test"....

[Gkri]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

One section of the Marquette Tourist Park campground sits directly behind the city vehicle maintenance facility and an industrial complex which is adjacent to the NMU campus. There is a sign on the campground office door warning of 'high water pressure in parts of the campground that may exceed 110 PSI"

We were set up in a site behind the bath house, next to the fence line. I put a pressure gauge on the faucet and got a reading of 135 PSI. Being the curious type, I left the pressure gauge on the faucet, installed my regulator to that gauge and then the hose to the regulator (set at 40 PSI). That was around 2PM or so on a weekday. That evening, when the industrial complex was shut down, the pressure gauge steadily started rising and around 10PM, was at 160 PSI.

I'm no expert in city water systems, but I attributed the "after work pressure increase" to the "shutdown of water use behind the fence"...

IMO, 135PSI is way too high for most RV's and to see that kind of increase as industrial use declined, would put any RV plumbing system "to the test"....

160 psi would require an elevated tank with a water level of 370 feet, which is altogether possible. Water use could have kept the tank from fully filling until later at night. The same scenario occurs with heavy electric use dropping voltage during heavy current draw in a campground. Perfect examples for using a true pressure regulator and a real EMS.

[flybouy]

In ANY campground, I would not connect to the water or electric without protection. An EMS for the shore power and a QUALITY water pressure regulator and a QUALITY water filter.

Campgrounds typically are not regulated or enforced like homes, hotels, restaurants, etc. Often the water is well water and often the pump pressure is set very high in an attempt to make up for a lack in volume when demand is high. The high demand for electricity during hot days can create brown outs that can cause major damage to appliances. These systems are often maintained and repaired by less than qualified cg employees. Capitol may not be available for necessary infrastructure upgrades.

When we arrive at a cg we take a good look at the "overall picture". If the roads are in bad shape, buildings rotting away, power pedestals rusting out, Picknick tables rotting away, etc. then you bet what you can't see (the utilities) is going be subpar.