truck selection dilemma

[Brantlyj]

Originally Posted by travelin texans

Guess I don't understand the problem with DEF?
Had a '13 Duramax that used the DEF towed with it for 6+ years & traded it in 2019 w/ 140k miles, the only DEF issue was a recall on the tank & pump, but the truck never missed a beat due to that issue or any other DEF problem. It had loads of power & torque, got 17-18 mpg solo & 10.5-11.5 mpg towing a 16.5k 5th wheel for about 60% of those miles.
The advantage of the DEF & its intended purpose was no stinking diesel exhaust smell, no choking black smoke like the '05 before that.
I'm not sure spending the $$ to delete one is worth it in fuel mileage or power/torque if it's gonna roll coal every time you mash the right pedal or the stink while idling to warm up.

it's more what it will do to the engine over time due to my normal expected usage. Every day my current truck gets started and backed out of the building and the end of the day it gets started and pulled into the building. When it actually gets used it goes maybe a 1/8th of a mile. With the current emissions stuff that would plug it up in no time. I would either have to let it sit and idle for a few hours while it did a manual regen once a week or so or I would have to purposely take it for a drive to clean out the filters.

regardless I have switched directions. I'm going to sell my current truck as well as my personal van. Buy a cheap 1 ton flatbed for the business and just use both the Jeep Wrangler and the truck as daily's. There's a lot of backstory that has went into this decision. Mostly that my dad can't back a 8 ft wide truck through a 12 ft garage door without hitting it.
The question, now is, since it will be driven a normal amount do I pony up for the diesel or save the $12g, get the gas engine and buy a higher level trim of truck.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by Brantlyj

it's more what it will do to the engine over time due to my normal expected usage. Every day my current truck gets started and backed out of the building and the end of the day it gets started and pulled into the building. When it actually gets used it goes maybe a 1/8th of a mile. With the current emissions stuff that would plug it up in no time. I would either have to let it sit and idle for a few hours while it did a manual regen once a week or so or I would have to purposely take it for a drive to clean out the filters.

regardless I have switched directions. I'm going to sell my current truck as well as my personal van. Buy a cheap 1 ton flatbed for the business and just use both the Jeep Wrangler and the truck as daily's. There's a lot of backstory that has went into this decision. Mostly that my dad can't back a 8 ft wide truck through a 12 ft garage door without hitting it.
The question, now is, since it will be driven a normal amount do I pony up for the diesel or save the $12g, get the gas engine and buy a higher level trim of truck.

Well that driving cycle isn't good for a gas engine either. I is also not a great process to let a modern diesel idle for extended periods.

[Badbart56]

Originally Posted by rhagfo

Well that driving cycle isn't good for a gas engine either. I is also not a great process to let a modern diesel idle for extended periods.

I really think an electric truck would suit your driving habits....

[dutchmensport]

We have always had 2 vehicles. One has always been a "run around" family vehicle, smaller, easier on gas, able to transport at lest 5 people. Our current "run around vehicle" is a Chevy Colorado crew cab (short bed) pick up truck. It's our primary daily driver and run around.

The second vehicle has always been the "monster truck" that will comfortably, safely, and easily tow anything. For us the "second" vehicle has always been a 1 ton dually. Our first was a gasser (disappointing) the next 2 were diesel.

Our argument for the second "monster" truck was .... the primary purpose for the truck is to tow the camper. We debated years and years ago about a motor home vs a trailer. Later a motor home vs a fifth wheel. We opted for the trailer route vs a motor home. So we decided, if we had gone with a motor home, it would have an engine and a transmission that could be used only for transporting the motor home. So, the pick-up truck would be used the same way. It's primary "mission" is to tow the trailer. Any other use is secondary.

We've use the dually a lot for other things. Before I retired and before Covid, both my wife and I worked "in the office". Whoever had the longer drive to their "office" drove the more economical vehicle. When she was able to work from home full time, I still had to go into the office, I started driving the more economical vehicle. When Covid hit, we both were working from home 100%. When that happened, we took off with the camper and hit the road for the next 2 years working from the camper (with the big truck), traveling all over the USA and living a fantastic lifestyle. The smaller truck stayed home.

So, as far as the truck you want, you have to decide what is the "primary" usage you'll be using it for. If you want a daily driver to and from work, then you've already got the other vehicle. If you want something to safely tow the new trailer, then you need the best your available money can buy. Because it doesn't matter if you tow your camper 1 mile or 100,000 miles, an under par tow vehicle is simply not an enjoyable, safe ride.

[firestation12]

I’ve never made the Alaska trip, but was wondering if fuel mileage was a factor. When towing with a gasser, the mileage was nearly half what my diesel trucks have been. Older trucks typically came with 26 gallon tanks on short beds, and a few more gallons capacity on long beds. It was hard to pass up a fuel stop. I now have an aftermarket S&B 60 gallon tank that takes the worry out of fuel stops.

[Brantlyj]

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

We have always had 2 vehicles. One has always been a "run around" family vehicle, smaller, easier on gas, able to transport at lest 5 people. Our current "run around vehicle" is a Chevy Colorado crew cab (short bed) pick up truck. It's our primary daily driver and run around.

The second vehicle has always been the "monster truck" that will comfortably, safely, and easily tow anything. For us the "second" vehicle has always been a 1 ton dually. Our first was a gasser (disappointing) the next 2 were diesel.

Our argument for the second "monster" truck was .... the primary purpose for the truck is to tow the camper. We debated years and years ago about a motor home vs a trailer. Later a motor home vs a fifth wheel. We opted for the trailer route vs a motor home. So we decided, if we had gone with a motor home, it would have an engine and a transmission that could be used only for transporting the motor home. So, the pick-up truck would be used the same way. It's primary "mission" is to tow the trailer. Any other use is secondary.

We've use the dually a lot for other things. Before I retired and before Covid, both my wife and I worked "in the office". Whoever had the longer drive to their "office" drove the more economical vehicle. When she was able to work from home full time, I still had to go into the office, I started driving the more economical vehicle. When Covid hit, we both were working from home 100%. When that happened, we took off with the camper and hit the road for the next 2 years working from the camper (with the big truck), traveling all over the USA and living a fantastic lifestyle. The smaller truck stayed home.

So, as far as the truck you want, you have to decide what is the "primary" usage you'll be using it for. If you want a daily driver to and from work, then you've already got the other vehicle. If you want something to safely tow the new trailer, then you need the best your available money can buy. Because it doesn't matter if you tow your camper 1 mile or 100,000 miles, an under par tow vehicle is simply not an enjoyable, safe ride.

I found a super nice 7.3 w/4.30 gear, long box at a really great price. I’m probably going to get it.
It now you have me second guessing again.

In 3 years my oldest will be driving and she will take the jeep and I’ll drive the truck full time. Until then the jeep spends its summer naked so the truck would only get used in bad weather and camping. In the winter the jeep will have its top back on and would drive it most of the time….

[dutchmensport]

Originally Posted by Brantlyj

...

In 3 years my oldest will be driving and ….

Oh wow, Kids really do have a way of complicating things. If at all possible, keep your older vehicles and let the kids drive them as their first vehicle. As good as the kids may be, they will have their first accident. It's better it's an older, well used, (almost disposable) vehicle that has lived a great life and served well, but now ... if it gets destroyed, it's no great loss.

We purchased our son (very, very responsible young man, and a very very good driver) his first car. It was an older Buick, really nice in it's day. We dumped some money into it and he drove it successfully for about 18 months. Then "it" happened. Pulling out of our own driveway (we actually lived in a school zone with a 20 mph speed limit, with the high school almost directly across the road from us) .... when he started to pull out, school busses all over, kids all over walking, and wild haired other teen ager came racing out of the school parking lot, floored it and T-boned my son. It was 100% the other kids fault. Still .... THAT was the end of the car!

He is now 37 years old and never had another accident driving of any kind .... except for the day he flipped his motorcycle and broke both wrists after he landed his first real paying job after college. (that's another story).

Any way, just my suggestion.

[Brantlyj]

For those concerned about the low payload of the camper…

I dropped off my old camper for some work so paid the new one a conjugal visit. Per the data tag it has starting a 2250lb payload dry. So after batteries and propane should be in the 2000 range.

[wiredgeorge]

Brant, You still seem a bit confused. You new camper is 14K lbs gross. Estimate 23 percent of that weight will give you an approximate pin weight (3220 lbs). Add truck cargo, passengers, hitch, etc. Your pin weight will be north of 4000 lbs and the truck you choose should had more payload capacity than 4000 lbs.

Payload capacity is the ability to safely carry a certain weight. Your trailer has a dry weight which is a number you will never see, a published pin weight which is a number you will never see and a published gross weight which you very well could see if you load your 5th wheel in a typical manner. Your truck has a printed payload capacity on the yellow/white placard in the door frame. Refer to that for the SPECIFIC carrying capacity of your truck. Good luck.

[Brantlyj]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Brant, You still seem a bit confused. You new camper is 14K lbs gross. Estimate 23 percent of that weight will give you an approximate pin weight (3220 lbs). Add truck cargo, passengers, hitch, etc. Your pin weight will be north of 4000 lbs and the truck you choose should had more payload capacity than 4000 lbs.

Payload capacity is the ability to safely carry a certain weight. Your trailer has a dry weight which is a number you will never see, a published pin weight which is a number you will never see and a published gross weight which you very well could see if you load your 5th wheel in a typical manner. Your truck has a printed payload capacity on the yellow/white placard in the door frame. Refer to that for the SPECIFIC carrying capacity of your truck. Good luck.

I was talking about the camper….

Camper gross is 13,820
Camper dry is 11,560

The camper has a payload of 2260 dry. The online capacity’s showed that it had a 1400lb capacity and many had concern that it was too low for a 5th wheel.

The truck I’m looking at has a capacity of 4400lbs.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by Brantlyj

I was talking about the camper….

Camper gross is 13,820
Camper dry is 11,560

The camper has a payload of 2260 dry. The online capacity’s showed that it had a 1400lb capacity and many had concern that it was too low for a 5th wheel.

The truck I’m looking at has a capacity of 4400lbs.

Generally, the amount a camper can carry is called cargo carrying capacity and that will be on a placard on the side of the camper (driver/front/lower). My camper has a dry weight of 6450 lbs and a cargo carrying capacity of 1710 lbs for a gross weight of 8160 lbs.

Hard to fathom a 1400 lb cargo carrying capacity in a camper as heavy as yours. You may have to eat on paper plates and go commando while camping! Certainly wouldn't want to tanks full as that would eat all your capaicity.

[Brantlyj]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

Generally, the amount a camper can carry is called cargo carrying capacity and that will be on a placard on the side of the camper (driver/front/lower). My camper has a dry weight of 6450 lbs and a cargo carrying capacity of 1710 lbs for a gross weight of 8160 lbs.

Hard to fathom a 1400 lb cargo carrying capacity in a camper as heavy as yours. You may have to eat on paper plates and go commando while camping! Certainly wouldn't want to tanks full as that would eat all your capaicity.

Sticker attached.

[wiredgeorge]

The CCC for your camper was calculated with the water tanks full so you can add 551 lbs to the 1649 lbs since most folks don't travel with the tanks full. Cargo carrying would be 2200 lbs if you keep the tanks unfilled and use city water.