The writer with the issue states his unit is a 2012 model. That plug simply "appears" to have been put in without teflon tape and tightened past the recommended torque. These plugs are NOT BRASS. They can be a BEAR to get out and understandably cause concern of stripping the housing.
I happen to be at home with my RV in it's resting spot in the mountains of N Georgia. I winterized it 2 weeks ago in anticipation of the first freeze coming before I would use it again. In doing so, each season, I replace the Anode Rod. I happen to have a new one, in the package, for a Surburban Heater, right in front of me as I respond. It is packaged and sold by Camco.
The pinciples for removal:
* allow water to cool and turn water off and open hot water faucet.
* ensure water is cool.
* Open the pressure release valve on the water heater itself to release pressure.
* use a 1 1/16th socket to remove old plug.
Install new plug as follows:
* Use teflon tape, 1 1/2 turns on the plug thread in the direction of tightening.
* Insert teflon taped rod; DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN; hand snug and then with a maximum force of 7 to 8 lbs of torque.
* turn on the water supply.
* inspect for any leaks and tighten rod slightly to ensure it is not leaking.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
That's all she wrote. I use my RV several times a winter and re-winterize every last night of usage. Never have any issues after installing the winterizing valve to the water pump. It is critical that all water be removed from the system. Unless or course you store your unit in south Florida
*