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11-25-2009, 11:05 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3
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Oven goes out (or does not stay lit)
Wedgewood Vision Oven
Full propane tank
All burners work fine
Trailer level
Pilot light lights easily and remains lit
Oven, however, goes out after a short period of time. It appears to stay on if set to full (500 degrees).
Any ideas? I am hoping to cook a small bird for Thanksgiving tomorrow and hope this is an easy DIY.
Thanks, and Happy Thanksgiving!
FIX: I adjusted (read 'increased') the gas flow to the pilot. To do this, I removed the stove top grill, then the top. Next, pull off all the control knobs. Then 2 screws at the top near the manifold, and 2 under the front cap (open the door and look up at the front). Remove the front cap (the bit with the holes in it for the valve control stems). The adjustment screw is the small brass screw on the oven's control body. I watched the flame while turning the adjustment screw and turned until it got as large as it would, then stopped. That was it. Fixed mine. Now the temperature stays where it is set and the oven stays on at all temperature settings. Yay! Good luck!
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11-25-2009, 11:18 AM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Fraser Valley BC Canada
Posts: 7,015
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The problem you are having with your oven has been posted just recently along with several possible solutions. If you go to the General RV Issues section, you will find a post almost identical to yours. Check it out ------- and welcome to the forum, Happy Thanksgiving and may your bird rest in peace in your working oven!!
__________________
2008 Cougar 5th Wheel 27RKS
2005 2500 GMC Duramax
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11-26-2009, 03:04 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Posts: 3
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Thanks - I did a number of searches. I am familiar with these forums. Loks like I did not guess the right words to search. I will search again.....
As of this morning, the problem got worse to where I could not keep the pilot light lit.
So.....I took off the covers, and increased the flow of gas to the pilot. The flame is much larger now and for the past 3 hours, no problems. I think that's the fix.
Let me go see what others say.
Thanks, and Happy Thanksgiving!
[Edit after reading above-referenced thread]
Yes, I did see that particular thread.
But I am not convinced a new part is/was required. This has got to be an adjustment as general behavior of the controller and switch seems OK. In my experience, things either work (and may need adjustment), or are broken. I think mine is not broken.
The way dealers go, I would not be surprised if all they did was adjust that guy's pilot just as I did, and then pocket the cash for the 2 parts.
Anyhow, I think I''m good to go.
Cheers!
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11-27-2009, 08:46 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 145
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Glade yours was just an adjustment. I'm thinking that the dealer really did replace the parts as I asked to see the old ones and it took 2 months and 3 trips to get the oven working proper.
Welcome to the forum
Bob
__________________
2010 Cougar 24RKS
2012 Dodge RAM 2500
6.7 Turbo
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11-27-2009, 09:57 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Alabama
Posts: 863
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Here's the link to the thread that your looking for: http://keystonerv.org/forums/showthread.php?t=376
__________________
2005 Springdale 249BH FW
2008 Toyota Tundra Crewmax 5.7L
Tow package
Timbrens
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04-01-2011, 07:00 AM
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#6
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Grayson county, Texas
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ric_mackie
Wedgewood Vision Oven
Full propane tank
All burners work fine
Trailer level
Pilot light lights easily and remains lit
Oven, however, goes out after a short period of time. It appears to stay on if set to full (500 degrees).
Any ideas? I am hoping to cook a small bird for Thanksgiving tomorrow and hope this is an easy DIY.
Thanks, and Happy Thanksgiving!
FIX: I adjusted (read 'increased') the gas flow to the pilot. To do this, I removed the stove top grill, then the top. Next, pull off all the control knobs. Then 2 screws at the top near the manifold, and 2 under the front cap (open the door and look up at the front). Remove the front cap (the bit with the holes in it for the valve control stems). The adjustment screw is the small brass screw on the oven's control body. I watched the flame while turning the adjustment screw and turned until it got as large as it would, then stopped. That was it. Fixed mine. Now the temperature stays where it is set and the oven stays on at all temperature settings. Yay! Good luck!
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Being a newbie on this forum, I hope I don't get sent to the penalty box for resurrecting this old thread. I said in my intro. post that this forum had given me a solution to my oven problem... but my implementation of the solution hit a snag. I'm sure I have this exact problem and I have my stove torn down as described. This solution says "The adjustment screw is the small brass screw on the oven's control body", but I don't have (at least, don't see) any screw on the control body. I DO see on the left front side of the control body a 1/2" brass hex nut (appears to be a locknut around the valve plunger depressed by the oven control knob to turn on gas to the pilot). I also see a silver checkball or two. Help! What am I missing?
Thanks in advance.
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04-01-2011, 09:17 AM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Venice
Posts: 5,346
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Dan, If you go to Flyguy's homepage or check this post I think you will find the info you need. http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sho...ht=oven&page=2 Hank
__________________
Hank & Lynn
2007 Cougar 290RKS, E-Z Flex, 16" XPS RIBs ( SOLD .. Gonna miss her ... looking for new 5r)
2004.5 Dodge 2500 QC, LB, 5.9HO, WestTach gauges, Ride-Rite
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04-01-2011, 01:17 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Grayson county, Texas
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hankpage
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Thanks for the input, Hank. I try hard to get over being dumb but am not always successful. I had read everything you've mentioned and watched the video several times (can't stop watching it!) but something's still not jiving.
Now I see we're talking apples and oranges. One more look at the top of the OP's post and I see "Wedgewood Vision Oven" and apparently mine has no Vision (mine is an RV 1734 stove made in Oct., 2008) since my parts don't look like the pictures I've been seeing.
My stove does not have the "Safety Pilot Valve" mentioned in http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sho...ht=oven&page=2 and pictured as
.
Instead, inside my oven, I have this.....
although my manual's parts explosion shows the first gadget! (Oh, great! I have a stove my manual doesn't recognize!)
My oven control looks like a combination of the two valves/gadgets. It looks like
and
So, now I'm hoping someone can tell me how to turn up the flow of gas to the pilot when the oven reaches selected operating temperature and gas to the main burner is reduced. It is at this point that both the pilot AND the main burner start sputtering until both go out.
If no one has experience with the controls in my picture, I can try to email AtwoodMobile.com and ask for information (any bets?).
Thanks, Dan
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05-02-2011, 07:00 PM
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#9
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Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Grayson county, Texas
Posts: 7
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UPDATE:
So I contacted Atwood through AtwoodMobile.com's "Contact Us" page, explained my stove's failure as written above. Their customer service rep. replied promptly and told me my "pilot assembly" was my problem, told me it needed to be replaced, gave me the part number (57234). I wrote back that my stove's parts were not the same as the parts explosion in my manual. He said the manual contained a picture of the "old gas system" but I had the new system in my stove. He sent me the new part and I installed and tested it today. It passed the test. Problem is solved!
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