Corner Caps

Txoutback · 06-11-2011, 06:08 PM

I pulled out the ladder this evening to take a look at the top of my new 277RL and found this at the rear:

Looks like a bad leak waiting for a rainy day. I noticed that the rear corner caps are not properly sized for the job and they placed them to align even with the rear seam cap and ignored the obvious issue.

I ask those of you who have been performing inspections and maintenance on your own TT, is this common, to be expected or did I get a freak?
I'm not sure how to deal with the dealer on this. If it is the standard design then I will say seal the sh*t out of it but if most others have the proper corner caps I will request replacement with something more appropriate.
Thanks for your replies.

We planned our shakeout cruise this weekend but my poor DW is under the weather at the moment. We have done a decent driveway shakeout over the past week so I will schedule a service appointment next week.

Dave

Bob Landry · 06-11-2011, 07:15 PM

Thanks for posting that. I'm going out to my 277RL tomorrow to put a drawer support back in that I had to rebuild and I'll crawl up on the ladder and take a look.

Is the bottom photo taken standing at the rear of the trailer looking at the rear or were you looking at the side? It's hard to tell where you were standing and I want to know excatly what I'm looking at/for.

Txoutback · 06-11-2011, 08:01 PM

That is the rear view, rear left top corner. I was standing on a ladder at the time. The problem wasn't as noticable while looking at it from ground level. The first two photo's are looking from the roof looking towards the rear, as if you were standing on top of the TT. Both left and right stick up the same height so they are consistantly wrong. They look to me that they were formed at the wrong angle, they just don't bend enough. I'm thinking that they may have been designed for a different style but I don't know.

Thanks for taking a look. Let me know what you find.

Festus2 · 06-11-2011, 08:05 PM

Dave:
No, this is definitely not normal and you should not have to expect this. From your photos, it appears as though the curved section is not curved enough - leaving this large and unacceptable gap between it and the rest of the capping. I would take it back to your dealer with expectation that it be replaced with a proper fitting cap. (You should make your "request" polite but firm.)
The photos tell me that it just isn't acceptable!

Txoutback · 06-11-2011, 08:33 PM

I always politely request and don't take no for an answer. Holiday World RV service rep's are my best friends for the next 11 months, 20 days. Sugar beats vinegar every time. It is all about attitude and mutual respect from all parties.

Bob Landry · 06-12-2011, 04:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Txoutback

I always politely request and don't take no for an answer. Holiday World RV service rep's are my best friends for the next 11 months, 20 days. Suger beats vinegar every time. It is all about attitude and mutual respect from all parties.

Did you also check the fit of the fiberglass front cap? Since the 277 is a new model, it may be worth looking at also.

Txoutback · 06-12-2011, 05:42 AM

I did and it looked good. I noticed that they laid down a heavy, wide layer of caulk across the top but stopped short of bringing all the way to the edge. There is a thin layer of different material from that point on. I thought that was strange until I got off of the ladder and backed away from it. Then I realized that they didn't want that glob to be seen from ground level. I'm good with that.
When you get up there note how much and what type of caulk they used where. on mine they globbed a heavy layer around everything that might leak that can't be seen from the ground. They laid a 2 inch wide glob around the TV antenna for example. I'm curious if yours is the same.

Thanks
Dave

Bob Landry · 06-12-2011, 06:02 AM

My only concern might be the possibility of not getting a good waterproof bond between two different types of caulk, but Since we don't know what they used, I guess we have to assune they knew what they were doing.

Txoutback · 06-12-2011, 06:58 AM

This is what I was referring to:

K-Z didn't seal my Sportsmen this well.

Txoutback · 06-12-2011, 06:59 AM

I will have them touch up the void in the radio antenna as well, politely of course

Bob Landry · 06-12-2011, 07:07 AM

I never thought about all of the stuff on the roof that you can't see from the ground. I'm going to take a long hard look at mine today.

What about the roof vents? it looks like from one of your photos, that one didn't get sealed around it. I keep mine under covered storage, so this is a good time to get everything sealed before I start any major trips and hit the rain and snow this fall

Txoutback · 06-12-2011, 07:32 AM

If you are referring to the one in the background from the TV antenna base, that is a vent cover that covers the bathroom vent allowing to have that vent open when towing and in light rain. I would not leave it open during a major rain storm. It is attached to the sealed vent.

Festus2 · 06-12-2011, 07:40 AM

Dave:
I think if you were to go up on the roof of almost any RV with a rubber roof, you will find that the sealant around the vents, skylights and aerial is applied pretty much like the sealant shown in the aerial base photo. The type of sealant used in these types of application is EPDM compatible and one that will "sag" or run when applied on a level surface such as a roof. Doesn't look neat and tidy but does the job.
The other type of sealant is non-sagging/non-leveling and is used for vertical applications or areas where you do not want the sealant to "run".
From your first photo (today's post), it looks like a different type of sealant was used on the curved piece - looks a bit "yellowish". This could be the non-leveling type whereas the rest of the sealant in that same area looks whiter.
I would check the yellowish-sealant --- it should be EPDM compatible - not silicone or any other type that has petroleum distillant in it. A silicone-based sealant will feel a bit rubbery to the touch. If it isn't the proper type, it should be removed and an EPDM compatible sealant applied.
(I was just joking about the "polite request". Who likes vinegar?)

Bob Landry · 06-12-2011, 07:47 AM

I think what Dave is refering to and pointing out in the antenna photo is the void in the sealant, similar to the one on the rear cap. I wouldn't have a problem with it being "globbed on" as long as it was out of sight and did the job. Any voids from the factory where water could enter and cause delamination damage would be unacceptable under any condition.

Txoutback · 06-12-2011, 08:05 AM

I am actually quite pleased with the globs. The more the merrier. They can glob it on all they want. I was concerned about it stopping on the edge but what you said makes sense. It may ooze down the side.
The thinner, yellowed material looks and feels like acrylic based but I could be wrong. My previous Sportmen didn't have this much on it. As a matter of fact they were skimpy on roof sealant and I had to beef it up. It started cracking after a few years.

Txoutback · 06-12-2011, 08:16 AM

Quote:

(I was just joking about the "polite request". Who likes vinegar?)

LOL My response to this was in reaction to some other posts in regards to poor service. If you walk in there with an attitude demanding retribution you will get attitude back and not the red carpet. I have never seen a customer walk in with an attitude and walk out happy, it just doesn't happen.

Bob Landry · 06-12-2011, 12:38 PM

The rear caps are the same on mine. The width matches the vertical corner molding. The top molding across the top is not as wide, so the appropriate fix would have been to use the same width moding in both places.

The more I think about the Camco vent cover, I'm thinking they left the installation hardware exposed for water drainage since the vent itself would be sealed, so I have no issue with that, The voids around the rear cap and the antenna are a different matter.

I could probably take it to the dealer up here and get it repaired under warranty, but a couple of things give me second thoughts about doing that. First, it's a 50 mile round trip to deliver it and another to pick it up. plus wait time.
Secondly, there may be some type of prep needed to get the new sealant to bond with the old. I know this is true with silicon and polyuerathane sealants, sometimes requiring all of the old sealant be removed, othertimes cleaning with acetone or M.E.K will do it. Whatever is needed to do it right, I will take the time to do it properly. I don't trust any dealership to do anything beyond what it takes to get it out the door. I know that sounds cynical, but I work in the marine industry and that attitude is not just prevelant with RVs. If all they do is glob new sealant on top of old and call it fixed, there will be problems down the line. Now, the price of a tube of whatever type sealant is used starts looking pretty good compared to dealing with delamination because of a shoddy repair job. I'm going to find out what type of sealant is used then contact the manufacturer for application instructions.

These voids may not look like much, but PMing with Dave indicated he lives in the Houston area and they get a LOT of rain there. In my case, we don't get a lot of rain in Austin, but when I start my long trips to the mountains and run into snow and ice, the end result will be the same.

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