changing tire

[nessmuk]

I have a 2011 Avalanche 5th wheel and the manual says to jack camper by the frame near a spring hanger. I have always jacked under axle on my Laredo, which I believe the manual also said frame. With a regular bottle jack you need a lot of blocking to reach frame and have to nearly jack whole side of camper up to get wheel off ground. Is there really any reason not to jack on axle near U bolts?

[therink]

Placing jack directly under ubolt is fine. I chock wheels and keep trailer hitched to truck with ebrake set for stability. I use bottle jack and block of hardwood for support at ubolt.
Steve

[f6bits]

I wonder how rigid the axle tube is. If you put a bottle jack with a tiny top, you're applying over 1000 lbs per square inch to that spot on the tube.

[Festus2]

Scott-
You do not want to place a bottle jack on the axle tube!

[Bugle Boy]

I built a sturdy box out of 2 x 10s. When in the truck bed, it holds the jack, handle and pressure guage. I turn it upside down and it is the jack support for using a bottle jack on the frame.

Jack in the Box.





There is a 3rd board that fits diagonally inside the box when upside using it as a jack support.

[Jim W]

Originally Posted by nessmuk

I have a 2011 Avalanche 5th wheel and the manual says to jack camper by the frame near a spring hanger. I have always jacked under axle on my Laredo, which I believe the manual also said frame. With a regular bottle jack you need a lot of blocking to reach frame and have to nearly jack whole side of camper up to get wheel off ground. Is there really any reason not to jack on axle near U bolts?

Are you asking about changing tire if you have a flat tire? If so I use what is called a Trailer Aid jack stand. This is where you drive the one good tire either forwards or backwards to raise up the trailer. I then use a jack just under the axle with the flat tire to raise the tire off of the ground when changing the tire. This will not place the trailer mass as you lift on the axle tube other than the flat tire.

Now if you are removing both tires to grease the bearings and check brakes you need to lift on the frame with jacks and blocking. I tend to use 4X4 or larger blocks for cribbing; stronger cross sectional area to spread out the mass of the trailer when loaded.

Jim W.

[CWtheMan]

Hot off the press, 4-10-2013. See page 23 for tire changes.

http://www.keystonerv.com/media/7053...l_4_2013_e.pdf


CW

[f6bits]

Since we're on the topic, and I don't own a torque wrench. With a socket, it doesn't seem deep enough to reach the lug nuts. So what should one do? Adding an extension would seemingly throw off the torque reading.

p.s. No, Festus, I don't want to put a bottle jack under the axle tube, nor a scissor jack. Nor any other type of jack.

[Bugle Boy]

I use a 6 inch extension on my torque wrench. If you keep the tool straight the torque applied should be accurate. That requires one hand on the grip end and the other hand on the other end of the tool.

[Jim W]

Originally Posted by f6bits

Since we're on the topic, and I don't own a torque wrench. With a socket, it doesn't seem deep enough to reach the lug nuts. So what should one do? Adding an extension would seemingly throw off the torque reading.

p.s. No, Festus, I don't want to put a bottle jack under the axle tube, nor a scissor jack. Nor any other type of jack.

An extension from the torque wrench to the socket will not affect the torque value being applied to the fastener in a 90 deg angle from the wrench. You can even use a wobble socket to apply the toque load to the fastener. Under no circumstance should you apply an extension to the torque wrench handle or torque wrench that is not 90 deg from the handle without recalculating the torque being applied. This extension will affect the torque value because you are change the lever length when applying the torque.
Here is a list of torque wrench formals for multiplying the torque being applied when using extension.
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/ren...la_main_en.asp

I would buy one from Sears at least you can buy a clicker 1/2 drive for around $120 or so. This is the range of 20-to 150 LB-FT which should cover most of your needs. In fact I carry two in the truck an old old beam type and a 1/2 drive clicker type.

Jim W.

[mhs4771]

I use a Deep Well Socket with a Harbor Freight Torque Wrench. works for me

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by mhs4771

I use a Deep Well Socket with a Harbor Freight Torque Wrench. works for me

I use the same setup. Harbor Freight frequently has their dial type torque wrenches on sale for $14.99 with a coupon. I have a friend who only uses Starrett measurment tools. We connected my dial type HF wrench to his calibrated dial type wrench and they were within 5 ft lbs at 140 ft lbs of torque, so I'm satisfied with the accuracy being "close enough" for torquing lug nuts. Now if I were using it on an airplane, I'd want closer tolerances, but lug nuts on a trailer "ain't rocket science" rather it's closer to "bailing wire science"

[Ayotte]

I always place the jack under the axel as close as possible to the wheel. If you jack on the frame you have to lift the camper so high. If putting a jack on the axel tube is going to affect the tube-they would never stand up to bumps and bouncing.