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Old 05-20-2023, 03:23 PM   #1
Jimisand
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Levelling... after the fact?

Hi,

So now that we are finally in our trailer (2013 Springdale-2600TB), we've noticed it's not quite level.

This trailer is new to us (and we are brand new to the trailer life). It was parked at the campground on the last day of the season last fall. When it was parked for us (we don't have a truck), the delivery guy just made sure the level bubble on the tongue was level. Nothing else was done to it.

There was settling over the winter from the snow and rain. I put a level on the floor inside the door and it's bubble was centered...funny thing is the bubble on the tongue is not.

When I put the level the other way (side to side) it's off and looks like the driver side needs to be raised to level it.

Is there any possible way easily fix this problem? The trailer will be staying there all the time. We won't be travelling with it. Should I just put cement blocks under the frame in several places (on the driver side) to ensure is doesn't dip anymore and call it a day?

Thanks for your help
Jimisand
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Old 05-20-2023, 03:35 PM   #2
dutchmensport
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No two places in the camper will be "level" at the same time. So, find the spot that is most important to be level and use that.

I like to use the entry door frame. Using a carpenter's level and using the door jam I can measure "level" front to back and side to side. If the door frame is level, the rest of the camper will be also.

About releveling. Ideally, you need to hitch up pull the trailer forward or backward and put something under the tires to get it level side-to-side. The wider and longer foot print under the tires the better to keep the tires from sinking.

Ideally, this is the best way to do it. More than likely, being a little off level will not hurt anything. A LOT off level will.... namely, the refrigerator.

If you can handle your eggs rolling to the edge of the frying pan every time you fix them, then being slightly off level won't hurt anything.
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Old 05-20-2023, 03:46 PM   #3
JRTJH
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The easiest way to relevel, as stated above, is to hitch up, tow forward, put blocks on the ground under where the tires will be and back onto those blocks... I say "easiest" but in reality, it's the simplest, because it's not that easy to raise the leveling jacks, undo the plumbing, unplug shore power, move anything like chairs, things on the A-frame, etc, then pull in the slides, the awning, fold up the steps and move the trailer.... "That's not really the easiest way to relevel".....

Then, the "quickest" way would probably be to put a jack under one of the "low side wheels" jack the trailer up, put the pad under the tire, let the jack down and repeat on the other wheel on that side, reset the leveling jacks and you're done.....

If the trailer is "never going to move again" (and you're POSITIVE of that fact) then I'd consider cement piers, concrete blocks and wood shims to "fine tune the leveling".... But that's ONLY if you KNOW FOR CERTAIN that the trailer will never move again. Once you start pulling off wheels and tires and ignoring regular maintenance on the axles, it takes an enormous amount of time to undo the damage from not performing regular maintenance on the axles, bearings, tires and wheels....
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Old 05-20-2023, 04:24 PM   #4
Canonman
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Another option might be to use a hydraulic jack and raise the low side to level.
depending on how much lift was required, you could use stack jacks like these.
Just $27 for a pair at Amazon. Put a 2x6 piece of wood or something to improve the footprint and you're good to "stay"
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-44561-A...546162207&th=1
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Old 05-20-2023, 04:31 PM   #5
jasin1
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Does the trailer just have stabilizers and not levelers? I wonder if your tires are low….that would make it unlevel if one or more tires is losing air
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Old 05-20-2023, 05:12 PM   #6
sourdough
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Unless you are parked and level on concrete, which it sounds like you're not, you will have difficulty from now on unless you do something to stabilize tires and stabilizers. I'm assuming on a 13 Springdale you do not have auto level. Movement inside the trailer, wind, rain etc. ALL will erode your initial level over time repeatedly. Wood blocks, legos under stabilizers, etc. will not solidify your trailer location from now on. The only recourse you have to at least minimize the shifting is to jack the trailer up slightly and lower it onto cinder blocks that have a stabilized/packed foundation under them. If you just leave it on the ground the earth shifts all the time. If it were me and it would never move I would pour concrete pads with a deep footer underneath to prevent shifting then level. A bit extreme but if you don't you will do this from now on..btdt.
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Old 05-21-2023, 05:44 AM   #7
Jimisand
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Thank you all for the support and advice.

The trailer is not out of level that marbles (or eggs) roll downhill. I think we will take a look around at the other trailers and see what type of ground they are on and what they are doing to support theirs. No self-levelling on this trailer.

Being that we don't know anyone there... this will be one hell of a way to meet them. I've heard a lot of guys like to help out for something to do. I will post again when I figure out what is going on.

Thanks again,
Jimisand
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Old 05-27-2023, 03:16 AM   #8
RagingRobert
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I would put wood under each set of wheels to help stop settling. I use pc's of 2x6 PT and 3/4 about 4-5 ft long instead of little blocks. Of course you'll have to raise any stabilizer jacks and lift as needed and use the appropriate thickness of wood by using a level on the floor inside RV from side to side. Once level check front to back and adjust. Once all is good chock wheels using chocks that go in between wheels to help minimize the bounce. Lower your stabilizer jacks and tighten...pick up four jacks as seen @#4 and install on 2x6 wood pads under frame in corners. Of course concrete blocks with RV basically raised off ground are a more permanent solid solution, more work and harder to get perfect. With the other way, level can be adjusted as things settle. I travel with my RV and find this set up works well...no big deal carrying 2 pc's of 2x6 x5' and one pc of 3/4" x5' plywood for any out of level situation up to 3 3/4" and easy to drive up on.
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Old 05-27-2023, 04:01 AM   #9
Hankster
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We had out Keystone Bullet stationary for 6 months. If it were me and I was keeping it stationary, I'd go with the aforementioned screw Jack's.
Also would use the angle cut 2x4 s wedged against the frame members and tensioned with a cheap ratchet strap. Like this ..../-----\
Doing this made the biggest difference on ours. I also built a small porch with steps so we didn't have to use the fold up steps.
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Old 06-02-2023, 03:15 AM   #10
Jimisand
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Thank you all for your help. After a good talk with the campground owner, he resolved the problem. He had a team of people helping him. They moved the trailer forward, packed down the area where the tires were and then moved the trailer back, but onto LVL. They then used patio stones and concrete blocks and the built in stabilizer jacks. This trailer is taller, squared up and fees solid. What a relief.



Thanks again everyone,

Jimisand
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