Awning in-line fuse with InCommand

[TommyTrojan]

Hi!

New to this forum and new to our 2019 Keystone Fuzion 357. We picked up our new to us toy hauler a few weeks ago and we can’t get either the front or rear awning lights to turn on.

Our rig has the ASA InCommand system with a touch screen control panel in place of where a more traditional switch panel box might be. I have looked at the “brain” of the InCommand system and can hear the relay clicking to turn the lights on when the command is sent. And I have tested with relays off of other functions I know to work.

The wiring attached to the terminals for the awning lights run behind a panel in the pass through and then up into the wall behind the main fuse panel in the trailer.

I’ve already attempted ti check behind the silicone of both awnings for this mysterious 2-5a fuse but with no success so far. This is driving us crazy, I’m pretty positive they worked when I bought the trailer and I’m thinking I might have popped a fuse while washing the rig.

Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks!

[ChuckS]

Did you actually measure the outgoing 12 volt DC source from the BCM terminal?


The plug in relay for that circuit on the BCM will CLICK when it gets signal from the touch screen to turn on or off but that doesn't mean it is sending 12 vdc to the awning

Ive attached pic of BCM terminal pinout for the Pro version of In Command.. had no idea what version yours is so this is reference only...

Verify you are actually getting 12 volts DC OUT from the BCM terminal for awning when selected on the display screen..

** Edited -- you can also temp swap the plug in relay on that circuit with another relay from the BCM for testing purposes of the relay itself

[TommyTrojan]

Thanks for the reply!

Got down to the trailer this morning and measured ~13 volts at the BCM. The panel is labeled as AWNING LIGHT 12V 5A OUT. This lead me to believe there is a 5a fuse somewhere along the wiring.

However, I disconnected the light strip at the roller tube and measured 14 volts. So maybe both strips failed at the same time?

I’ve ordered some replacement light strips while continuing to troubleshoot.

[LHaven]

Have you verified that the ground at the other end of the strip is good?

[TommyTrojan]

The LED strip ground wire is connected to the BCM. I believe it is good, as that is the contact point I used to measure voltage at the BCM. If I’m not checking that appropriately I’m open to learn and other suggestions.

Thanks!

[LHaven]

I'm supposing that the BCM contact "supplies ground" in that connection, so finding ground there doesn't tell you anything about whether it's present at the LED strip. I'm speaking as a poor sap who has had to repair three mouse-chewed wires in my ceiling so far.

[ChuckS]

If you have 12 vdc at the connection going to the LED strip then it sounds to me like the LED strip is open.. somewhere .

If when you measure with a multimeter at that junction to the light strip and you can toggle power off and on via in command display then I believe you have your answer

[TommyTrojan]

Okay, I’ll get back out there and check the connection at the awning railing where the light strip quick connection is and toggle the switch. If I’m getting 14V when the switch is on and 0V when the switch is off that would be indicative of the LED strip being bad, correct? The wires behind the silicone plug where the awning bracket mounts to the trailer all looked great but now I’m thinking I need to multimeter everything.

[TommyTrojan]

I saw this video on YouTube last night and was wondering if this small amp fuse is hidden somewhere along the way.

https://youtu.be/A-3jWbZaqhY

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by TommyTrojan

Okay, I’ll get back out there and check the connection at the awning railing where the light strip quick connection is and toggle the switch. If I’m getting 14V when the switch is on and 0V when the switch is off that would be indicative of the LED strip being bad, correct?

Only if the ground is also well connected.

Maybe a better diagnostic for you is to get a 12V wall-wart and a quick-connect stub [LINK], and just test the strip directly. That will tell you 100% for sure whether the problem is the strip or your cabin wiring.

[TommyTrojan]

I think I’m tracking now. There’s a potential for an open ground somewhere despite getting ~14V at the awning roller tube and using the black common probe off of one of the quick connect ports.

The new light strips get here tomorrow. I’m going to plug them in before cutting and if they turn on then I know my old strip went bad. If they don’t turn on then I know I have an open ground.

Tracing the open ground sounds like it is going to be loads of fun. Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

[LHaven]

That's a good approach too.

If your ground is in fact chewed through, in a pinch, you should be able to splice the awning side into any other nearby ground, like for a light.

[firestation12]

Originally Posted by TommyTrojan

Hi!

New to this forum and new to our 2019 Keystone Fuzion 357. We picked up our new to us toy hauler a few weeks ago and we can’t get either the front or rear awning lights to turn on.

Our rig has the ASA InCommand system with a touch screen control panel in place of where a more traditional switch panel box might be. I have looked at the “brain” of the InCommand system and can hear the relay clicking to turn the lights on when the command is sent. And I have tested with relays off of other functions I know to work.

The wiring attached to the terminals for the awning lights run behind a panel in the pass through and then up into the wall behind the main fuse panel in the trailer.

I’ve already attempted ti check behind the silicone of both awnings for this mysterious 2-5a fuse but with no success so far. This is driving us crazy, I’m pretty positive they worked when I bought the trailer and I’m thinking I might have popped a fuse while washing the rig.

Any help would be much appreciated! Thanks!

Here is a pic of my iN·Command circuit board. The awning light’s positive and negative wires land on adjacent screws (see the orange wire at the far right). If this were oriented correctly, the orange wire would be on the lower right corner of the circuit board Do. You have voltage across both these 2 terminals?

[TommyTrojan]

Originally Posted by firestation12

Here is a pic of my iN·Command circuit board. The awning light’s positive and negative wires land on adjacent screws (see the orange wire at the far right). If this were oriented correctly, the orange wire would be on the lower right corner of the circuit board Do. You have voltage across both these 2 terminals?

Thanks for the picture. My board looks identical and my awning lights are the same number terminals as you. I stuck my black common probe to the #64 terminal (ground) and my red probe to the #63 terminal (awning light 12V 5A out) and got ~13V. Flipping the probes resulted in a negative 13V reading.

[ChuckS]

If you have power from the BCM output wires as measured and measure at the LED string connection and have 12 vdc then the ground is good as is the (+) lead... There is no other ground...

[TommyTrojan]

Alright, so we got the replacement light strips in today. Carefree of Colorado brand, should be a direct replacement with the quick connect fitting and everything.

Got down to the trailer, unplugged the old strip, plugged in the new strip, sent the command to turn the awning lights on and got nothing. I heard the relay click but still have zero illumination.

I didn’t have my multimeter on me so I’ll give that a try to just double check I’m getting power at the quick connect fitting.

So back to the original post, is there an inline fuse for the awning lights past the BCM but before the awning light connection?

[TommyTrojan]

Page 5 of the service manual for the awning shows the potential that there’s an inline fuse somewhere. https://www.carefreeofcolorado.com/w...ice-Manual.pdf

Edit: Page 11 of that same document goes into detail about the inline fuse.

[LHaven]

Originally Posted by TommyTrojan

I didn’t have my multimeter on me so I’ll give that a try to just double check I’m getting power at the quick connect fitting.

So back to the original post, is there an inline fuse for the awning lights past the BCM but before the awning light connection?

In post #3 you said you measured 14v at the light strip. If you had a fuse, it would be on the +v line, so that shouldn't be the problem. I suspect we are back to the broken ground. Can you pierce the ground wire at the awning end temporarily with a probe and ground it manually to the chassis?

[TommyTrojan]

Originally Posted by LHaven

In post #3 you said you measured 14v at the light strip. If you had a fuse, it would be on the +v line, so that shouldn't be the problem. I suspect we are back to the broken ground. Can you pierce the ground wire at the awning end temporarily with a probe and ground it manually to the chassis?

You’re correct. I’ll have to get some alligator clips or probes to manually ground the connection to check for sure. Since it’s both of the awning light strips that are completely out I’m wondering if it’s a bad ground fairly early in the wiring.

Turning out to be a real PITA, thanks for the help.

[TommyTrojan]

Alright, back with another installment of what the heck is going on with my awning lights. Got off shift this morning and was able to get some alligator clips to extend my probes of my multimeter.

MM shows continuity (reading of 0) from the harness at the awning roller tube light harness all the way back to the BCM for both the front and rear awnings, for both power and ground. This means I have a complete circuit and no open connections, right?

I’m at a loss at this point, 14V readings front and rear awnings, that go to 0V when the command is sent to turn the lights off. Two new OEM light strips that won’t illuminate when the command is sent to turn on. It seems like I’ve got power and I’ve got ground. What am I missing?