Water through light above bed @ 1:30 AM

[KevinRC]

Hello All,



While in CT, we needed the rain, it came down in buckets last night with a strong wind.



Needless to say, I am in need of some advice.



I have attached pictures and it would appear to me that the heavier "caulk" was kinda made for an RV (where the aluminum front meets the actual roof. I see some regular clear caulk (on the side edges) which I assume that the previous owner had put on.



I have read about EternaBond Tape, similar to FlexSeal tape as well as one person used the liquid FlexSeal to do the whole roof.


Warm and dry weather forecast for the next 4 days (Thank the Lord) and I want to get this addressed.





All suggestions and comments are most welcomed.

[JRTJH]

If you search long enough, you'll probably find someone who used bubble gum and swears that it's been there 10 years with no leaks since chewing and sticking.....

That said, the roof membrane manufacturer has specific maintenance/repair instructions for the TPO roof membrane. Why not first, at least read those instructions and then determine if you want to void your warranty (which is pretty much "manufacturer favored not consumer favored") ???

You'll find people who use all sorts of things to do jobs. Sometimes they work, sometimes they make future repairs either more difficult or even impossible...

Things like Eternabond and Flex-seal are not the recommended or the preferred repair items. Alpha-Flex self leveling sealant (on the roof) and Alpha-flex non-leveling sealant (on the vertical surfaces) are the recommended manufacturer products. DICOR also produces TPO membrane for the RV industry and they also produce a line of sealants that are "RV friendly and TPO safe.

Back to the bubble gum repair: That's not an option, just a bit of "dry humor".....

[KevinRC]

Thank you for your reply and BTW Bazooka was my favorite and is probably still in my stomach 55 years later.



IMO, It is either Tape or liquid.



Thoughts?

[LHaven]

My first area of attack would be the joint in your second photo. It looks like it's gone unmaintained for years, and it's not unknown for this joint to be lousy straight out of the factory [LINK]. In fact, yours seems to peter out at the aluminum surface edge halfway across, Inspection of these (and topping off voids) needs to be an annual maintenance item. (It took DW quite a while to get the orange woodstain off our mattress.)

I will also comment that in your first photo, there is discoloration on the ceiling and inside the crimp connectors that suggests this leak is not new.

[KevinRC]

But now I own it, I have to fix it.


I can just address the seams, top and sides (as well as all the other penetrations, or do the whole roof.



Your thoughts?


Thank you!

[chuckster57]

I would clean the seam and apply a GENEROUS amount of lap sealant to give you time to figure out the long term solution.

[LHaven]

My opinion: unless you see damage on the "whole roof" (fabric) that would indicate repair is needed, concentrate on the seam caulking, as this is the most likely source of leaks. Do the front cap seam first, but check all the caulk seams up top, as they most likely haven't been inspected in years.

[KevinRC]

Seams first

[NH_Bulldog]

LOTS of Dicor self-leveling lap sealant. I keep a tube of self-leveling, another of non-leveling, and a tube of Geocel on hand at all times. I inspect and touch-up the roof and other areas a few times a year and fingers crossed have not had any leaks yet.

[sourdough]

4 days of clear weather - you've got plenty of time.

Get you a plastic scraper and clean off that front seam then wipe it down with alcohol. It doesn't all have to come off but get most of it. Get some tubes of this; https://www.campingworld.com/alpha-s...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

if the roof is white (it might be gray - they have different colors). The link is to self leveling sealant and should be applied on the flat surfaces. Alpha makes a non leveling sealant as well that you use on vertical surfaces. Use plenty. It will self level (look at that gray section in the 2nd picture - it leveled out). I recommended Alpha sealant because it appears the roof has a pebble texture which would indicate it is TPO material.

4 days is enough to remove all the sealant on the front/back seams and down the roof edges then replace it. Good luck and....have fun.

[KevinRC]

In the picture where on the side on the black trim is filled with clear sealant.



I should scrape that all out, clean with alcohol and refill?



Most of the suspected/potential issues are in and around that trim and I have some
Geocel 8125 High Performance Silicone - Black


Thoughts?


Someone asked about the roof. Yes it has a pebbly finish, grayish in color, may have been white when new.



I would like to clean up that front seam on the roof where the body meets the roof and it is bumped up, and I have the option of using the Eterna Bond or FlexSeal tape for the straight across. However, with the seam across the front the build up is a good 1/2" and has ridges that I do not think that tape would adhere so well.



Possibly the best course of action would be scrape ALL that old caulk off and start from new right? If that is the case, that is next years project not this years.



The other penetrations, TV Antenna, vents etc., I am thinking that tape would be difficult to apply due the circular nature of those penetrations. That and as those have also been covered over with a liquid have bumps and ridges



I did buy a gallon of the FlexSeal liquid and am just thinking to clean up around those penetrations and paint on the FlexSeal. Thoughts?



I fully realize that this is a temporary solution but I would like to be able to travel with the rig this summer.. Next year, by then I will have heard from this forum on a more permanent solution.



Thank you all for your input.

Kevin

[wiredgeorge]

As has been stated by almost everyone, remove the clear silicon and clean the area and use RV specific products. Flex Seal wouldn't be the way to go as it won't be durable and will be an even bigger mess to clean up. Tape won't work over old Dicor unless it is all cleaned up for a smooth surface to allow it to adhere.

[JRTJH]

To my knowledge, there are NO studies and NO reporting on the long term use of FlexSeal on any TPO membrane. It may very well be durable, stop the immediate flow of water through cracks and seal the metal/TPO union effectively. But: What does it do to TPO integrity 4 or 5 years from now? What will it do if the trailer wood roof decking is wet and deteriorates under the FlexSeal? Can it be removed from the aluminum front of the trailer and resealed after repairs? Will it even stick to itself after it's aged on the TPO/metal surfaces for 4 or 5 years ? It won't stick to itself in my gutters on the house after 2 years of use.

Too many things that could go wrong to attempt to use something not designated by the TPO manufacturer on their product.... You might have $79.99 invested in a gallon of FlexSeal liquid, but you also have $20,000 invested in your trailer.

It's certainly your choice to use anything you want on your roof, but consider that buying $30 worth of the correct sealant (3 tubes) would provide the correct materials to properly reseal your roof and hopefully prevent any potential damage from using the wrong product, that might do untold damage in the future..... A lot to consider along with glancing at that"unused gallon can of stuff that "ought to work, don't you think?"

[KevinRC]

Based upon what I researched:


How many years does a TPO roof last? This roofing type is designed to last about 10-20 years, and it can sometimes even last up to 30. To maximize its lifespan, the roof should be inspected and cleaned annually. One of its most commonly reported problems is that it can pull away around the edges and seams.


Based upon the pictures from the North side where the wind and rain came in on and just so happened it was where repairs were attempted to be made. And the trim seems to have pulled away from the TPO roof.



As you can see the other side, seems to be in good condition, well much better than the side I suspect is where the leak came from.



I am in the process of removing the regular silicone caulk and using Geocel Proflex RV.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by KevinRC

Thank you for your reply and BTW Bazooka was my favorite and is probably still in my stomach 55 years later.



IMO, It is either Tape or liquid.



Thoughts?

As long as neither are Flex Seal products. If you want to build a boat with chicken wire that's your stuff, but not for this job!
I'm sure there are good uses for FS products but in my opinion it would not/will not be on my rv, especially the roof, regardless of what Phil Swift claims.
As John pointed out there are approved caulks & sealers for your rv roof material, as well as caulks for other joints & seams, & I seriously doubt you'll find any FS products on that list.
That silicone that the PO smeared on that edge will most likely all have to be removed before you can anything else to stick to it.
If you're taking the time & effect to do the repair spend the $$ on the correct products to do it correctly.

[sourdough]

The problem with owning an RV is that taking care of it is neither easy nor cheap. Easy and cheap will cost you big time in the long run.

If you hit it and get it removing the old Dicor won't take that long...it's pretty easy (remembering you don't have to have a pristine, totally cleaned surface) - it's sort of like putty. You can get the proper products in a couple of days if you have Amazon Prime or probably today if you have a Camping World or RV center nearby.

The desire to use the Flex Seal because you have it goes back to that easy and quick thing...doesn't make it a proper repair nor assure you won't have issues and never know it. Don't use silicone on those seams, strips etc. It's very difficult to work with once on and extremely difficult to remove when the time comes to put the proper product on.

For those transition strips, windows etc. where you need to replace sealant I also use ProFlex;

https://www.campingworld.com/proflex...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

Far better than silicone; goes on and comes of easier along with coming in different colors. I will say don't get the crystal clear. I like clear and there was some confusion on product numbers on one order and they sent crystal clear. I didn't even look closely and just saw clear not thinking about the significance of the difference. I've got about a 6" strip on the top corner of my roof that looks like someone shining a bright flashlight when the light hits it now....and 2 tubes sitting out in the barn that will never be used.

Take the time to do it right, a day or two. Watch a video or 2 of dicor (same as the Alpha product) removal and application. Get your stuff together; ladder, scrapers, alcohol, rags, caulk gun etc. and when the sun comes up go hit it. You'll be done by evening or noon the next day and ready for a season of camping with the RV actually fixed....the right way.

[KevinRC]

I feel that if I use the the Geocel on the trim transition to the TPO roof, I will be better off than what the original owner did.



The flexSeal is ONLY to overcoat the previous built up gook around the penetrations.



Some day, hopefully NOT in my lifetime, someone will have to deal with that aspect.



In the meanwhile, I just want to enjoy the number of days left in my life and NOT have water leaking.



Thank you all again on your input. It is all highly valued and sincerely appreaciated!
Kevin

[KevinRC]

After cleaning up the trim I used some alcohol on the interface between the front body and roof.



Opinions are welcome, but it is not looking good...

[sourdough]

There's a nice leak and it's been around a while so no telling what it's done inside. I wouldn't use the geocel you mentioned, it is silicone. The other products will do a far better job with far less headaches.

[wiredgeorge]

Well, good luck. You have received a lot of good advice but seem determined to do it your way and that is fine because it is your trailer. I suspect you had your mind made up to do the repairs your way from the beginning so no further need to respond. Again, good luck.