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Old 05-06-2023, 10:52 AM   #1
Gma9
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Hot water

We have a Keystone Residence and we have hot water in the tank but not when we turn on the faucet. What could be wrong?
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Old 05-06-2023, 10:56 AM   #2
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Problem solved...
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Old 05-06-2023, 11:31 AM   #3
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Problem solved...
Would be a nice gesture, if you told the complete story.
What did you do to "solve" the problem?
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Old 05-06-2023, 11:42 AM   #4
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My bingo card says "winter bypass."
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Old 05-06-2023, 12:06 PM   #5
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My bingo card says "winter bypass."
But in bypass, the tank should be empty and not have "hot water" in the tank as stated by the OP.
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Old 05-06-2023, 12:25 PM   #6
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Only if the (previous?) owner remembered to empty the tank after bypassing it!
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Old 05-06-2023, 04:23 PM   #7
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2007 Montana Big Sky.

Whelp, I'm going to chime in because this popped up on search, and I've been racking my brain for the last hour. I have unwinterized this thing at least half a dozen times, but I'm stumped.

Filled the fresh tank today.
Opened the relief valve on the WH
ran the pump until water came out the valve and closed the valve.

Can get cold at all faucets, but I get no hot... unless I bypass the WH and feed cold to all the hots.

I carefully loosened the fitting at the tank exit and got dripping water.

It's like the WH line is blocked somewhere. Is there a valve I'm forgetting about?

Thanks,

Steve
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Old 05-06-2023, 08:50 PM   #8
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"bypass the WH and feed cold to all the hots."
Huh?
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Old 05-06-2023, 09:06 PM   #9
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"bypass the WH and feed cold to all the hots."
Huh?
Isn't that what you're doing when you choose to bypass the WH? It simply pumps cold from the fresh tank to the hot valves.

Anyway, I posted in another thread, and it sounds like my check valve at the outlet has failed.
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Old 05-06-2023, 09:32 PM   #10
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Yep. It's probably the check valve (brass valve) on the hot water outlet on the rear of the water heater. Over the years, they collect calcium deposits and can get "stuck open" or more likely, "stuck shut" during winter storage and simply won't open up in the spring.....

You can buy a new one at any RV parts store or on Amazon or EBay.

$8.80 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-23303-B...%2C106&sr=8-44
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Old 05-06-2023, 09:50 PM   #11
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Isn't that what you're doing when you choose to bypass the WH? It simply pumps cold from the fresh tank to the hot valves.
Sorry... the way you worded it (especially the "unless"), I had this mental image of you backfeeding cold water into your hot water faucets, and somehow getting hot water somewhere as a result. Now understand my confusion.
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Old 05-07-2023, 05:55 AM   #12
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Thanks gents. Been a doozy of a weekend. It appears the cooling unit in the big norcold has failed too. While remotely monitoring the power system, I noticed the AC power to the fridge stopped cycling for several hours and stayed on. I cycled the power off and back on, but it never drew AC power again. My hope was that it was running on propane. It wasn't.

Greeted with the Li op error after several weeks away. Don't think the magnet trick works on my unit. Bypassed the limit switch and ran it on propane for about 5 hours. Temp didn't drop even 1 degree.

Stupid countertop dishwasher we used maybe a dozen times failed too.

Happy to have an $8 fix!!!!

At least the damn Keurig worked, or I'd be REALLY bitchy this morning.

Thanks again,

Steve
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Old 05-07-2023, 09:39 PM   #13
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Follow-up in case this is of use to anyone.

Looks like I have the male to male version:

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-P234..._df_B00HJ6P0Z8

I pulled it and checked the valve. Seems like there were no issues. Moved freely and there was no evidence of calcium or other build-up. I went ahead and gutted it just in case.

I re-installed the valve and turned on the water pump with the relief valve closed. There was nothing coming out of the valve... the tank was pressurizing... with a gutted and open valve.

I released the pressure at the exterior valve and removed the check valve. I jammed the plastic end of a bic pen into the exit. There was a lot of resistance and crunching before it would move freely. I also chased it with a 18" long heavy duty zip tie to make sure I was getting all the way through the outlet tube and into the tank.

Reconnected everything and decided to fill the tank using the kitchen faucet as the "relief valve." I could hear the air coming out as the WH filled. However, once water started flowing, it was just a trickle, but the shower and bathroom faucets were fine. Removed the kitchen sprayer head and back flushed it with the supply hose. All works now.

Conclusion - buildup of something in the tank was blocking the exit tube. Residual yuck obstructed the kitchen faucet sprayer head.

Had 30 minutes of hot water before we had to leave... until the next visit.

Thanks,

Steve
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Old 05-07-2023, 09:49 PM   #14
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Suburban WHs have a sacrificial anode that is supposed to corrode into crystals and save the heater chamber from doing the same. You'd have to go through many anodes (without cleaning the tank) to produce enough salts to block the outlet port, and by the time you got halfway there you'd have a real problem jamming in new anodes. Another possibility is that no one's been changing the anode, and you've started digesting the heater walls. Scary.

(If you have an Atwood WH, none of the above applies.)
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Old 05-07-2023, 10:23 PM   #15
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Suburban WHs have a sacrificial anode that is supposed to corrode into crystals and save the heater chamber from doing the same. You'd have to go through many anodes (without cleaning the tank) to produce enough salts to block the outlet port, and by the time you got halfway there you'd have a real problem jamming in new anodes. Another possibility is that no one's been changing the anode, and you've started digesting the heater walls. Scary.

(If you have an Atwood WH, none of the above applies.)
I used the typical "wand" to clean the tank when we acquired it in 2021. I haven't done so since then due to the limited availability of water and noteworthy inconvenience.

I've replaced the anode rod twice. Mostly because I had it, not that it needed it. Installation was a breeze. Since then the WH has likely been filled and emptied no more than 20 times in 2 years while sitting empty for 4 months per year. When I removed the anode to drain it today, it was 95% of its full shape.

I can't attest to the practices of the prior owner(s), but my maintenance efforts are not the worst, and I can promise you the outlet was clogged even though your prerequisites were not met.
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Old 05-07-2023, 10:50 PM   #16
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Mystery! I'd inspect the crunchies, if you can snag 'em. Insect blockage would seem to be out of the question. Maybe grit or non-electrostatic mineralization around a restricted port. Do you also have an input check valve, similarly restricted?
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Old 05-08-2023, 05:23 AM   #17
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If the WH was not maintained properly over the years by previous owner than the sediment off the anode rod built up enough to block the WH HOT outlet side where the check valve goes..

The crunchy sound was most likely you breaking thru the built up deposits inside..
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Old 05-08-2023, 06:12 AM   #18
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Mystery! I'd inspect the crunchies, if you can snag 'em. Insect blockage would seem to be out of the question. Maybe grit or non-electrostatic mineralization around a restricted port. Do you also have an input check valve, similarly restricted?
Crunchies are long gone. Given that the tank would always fill, and we have hot water now, and I didn't do anything to the inlet, I would presume there are no restrictions on the inlet.

Quote:
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If the WH was not maintained properly over the years by previous owner than the sediment off the anode rod built up enough to block the WH HOT outlet side where the check valve goes..

The crunchy sound was most likely you breaking thru the built up deposits inside..
That makes sense though I would have hoped my clean out upon acquisition would have corrected it.

Oh well. We have hot water now, and I have TWO of those check valves on order.
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