Leak under passport 2520RL

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by Hemi1

Sir, Do you know of a reputable rv repair shop in the area you can recommend. I'd rather not take ut to Camping World if I choose to get it repaired.

I'll send you a PM.

[NH_Bulldog]

Originally Posted by hazmat456

I stand corrected.

For what it’s worth, the nails do have hex-heads for whatever reason. I thought they were screws myself until I tried to spin one out.

[hazmat456]

Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog

For what it’s worth, the nails do have hex-heads for whatever reason. I thought they were screws myself until I tried to spin one out.

Sorry to hear that, I guess whatever they can do to build them faster.
I'm guessing they are difficult to pull. angle grinder? then punch out the residual and replace with a self tapping screw?
Seems like a bad idea for what should be a serviceable location.

[NH_Bulldog]

Fortunately they do pop out fairly easily with a small flat bar. I saw the hex head on mine and tried to unscrew it, which of course isn’t happening. But it did loosen it enough so it popped out easy enough. I went back with stainless steel self tapping Teks screws with a fender washer.

[Bill-2020]

Edit - removed quote from above post.

Use a 1/4" nut driver in a small 12v or 16v impact, put in reverse, engage the
fastener with the nut driver, start to spin it and then push a large flathead screwdriver between the washer and the coroplast like a small prybar. It'll come out easily. Reuse the washer with #10 self drilling 1/2" hex screw to replace it.

[Hemi1]

Work in progress. I found that self-tapping screws hold my coroplast in place. So far had to remove 4. Obviously all these rvs are built differently. BTW I strongly suspect one of my grey water tank valves dripping. There is no way to get to the back bolts of the valve without cutting the coroplast. Got shrim tape for when the job is done. It is my opinion they don't build these rvs with ease of repair in mind.

[chuckster57]

Often times I just remove more screws, and then just “blindly” feel for the bolts/nuts.

If it’s a gray tank with the standard 1 1/2” valve you need a 3/8 and 5/16 wrench.

[Hemi1]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Often times I just remove more screws, and then just “blindly” feel for the bolts/nuts.

If it’s a gray tank with the standard 1 1/2” valve you need a 3/8 and 5/16 wrench.

That's what I thought. I bought a 1.5" valve for that purpose. When I was able to visualize it, I have a 3'' valve for the shower grey water tank, a 3" valve for the black and a 1.5 for the kitchen sink grey water tank. I have 3 tanks. These RVs are all different. So now I have a 3 incher on order.

[chuckster57]

Most often it’s just the seals that fail.

3” valves use a 7/16” wrench.

[terrythetech]

Last season I had a drip and a lot of water under my seasonal camper. I drilled a weep hole in the chloroplast to allow the water to drain until I discovered the source of the leak. I found that the grey water galley tank would leak when almost full. Since my camper does not move I partially opened the galley tank drain and the under-sink p-traps keep any vapors out of the trailer. Since leaving the galley drain partially open no more leaks. I suspect my camper (bought used) has a cracked line near the top of the tank as since leaving that valve open I have no more water in the belly of the camper. Gaining access to repair that tank connection will be a chore and an unwanted expense at my age and agility. So for now I will treat the symptoms and not the problem.

[Kirk's Keystone Outback.]

Originally Posted by Hemi1

Thanks to all who commented. I'll find out if mine are "nails" when I remove one. I have a feeling this is not gonna be a fun project and may end up taking it to a shop. I'll let you know.

My Outback is a 2018 and it still has nails, knock on wood.

[atkinsb3]

Originally Posted by Hemi1

Can someone give me their best guess where to look first? Drip underneath. I would need to gain access through the underlayer. Valve maybe? If I had to cut the underlayer to gain access to find the drip, how would I re patch the underlayer? Drip is by the foam of the big pipe coming down.

Had a very similar issue and noticed the floor around the toilet was getting soft... Pulled the toilet out and found the toilet flange was split (figure it had been cracked since day 1 and finally just completely split) and when the toilet was flushed, water would leak out, run down the black tank and drip off the drain pipe just like you showed. As I got to feeling under the floor the bottom layer of luan was completely soaked So now my bathroom is all torn out and I'm working on replacing the floor.

[NH_Bulldog]

Originally Posted by atkinsb3

Had a very similar issue and noticed the floor around the toilet was getting soft... Pulled the toilet out and found the toilet flange was split (figure it had been cracked since day 1 and finally just completely split) and when the toilet was flushed, water would leak out, run down the black tank and drip off the drain pipe just like you showed. As I got to feeling under the floor the bottom layer of luan was completely soaked So now my bathroom is all torn out and I'm working on replacing the floor.

Been there, done that. My flange was REALLY bad. I replaced my entire bathroom floor and it’s better now than factory.