Moisture Bathroom Cabinet

[chuckster57]

Like this:

https://www.mcmaster.com/product/47685K12

For under the sink,

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Arrowhea...1390/202579291

For hose connection

[Joe1969]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Like this:

https://www.mcmaster.com/product/47685K12

For under the sink,

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Arrowhea...1390/202579291

For hose connection

Where does the hose connection go, where the water goes in or where it flows out/down to the tank?

[chuckster57]

Hose connection is for the exterior of the trailer where you connect the hose.

[Joe1969]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Hose connection is for the exterior of the trailer where you connect the hose.

Ok got it’s should I replace that too then? The problem seems to be the one under the sink.

[chuckster57]

There isn’t one on the exterior. I was saying if you remove the one under the sink, you’ll need to install one or the other.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Originally Posted by Joe1969

Ok got it’s should I replace that too then? The problem seems to be the one under the sink.

He is just saying to place this on the end of your hose IF you've removed the anti-syphon that is under the sink. This is to prevent any possible backflow of black tank water into your water hose.

[Joe1969]

Got it. Thanks.

[Joe1969]

Originally Posted by CedarCreekWoody

He is just saying to place this on the end of your hose IF you've removed the anti-syphon that is under the sink. This is to prevent any possible backflow of black tank water into your water hose.

Got it. Thanks. I can’t help but wonder why they would install such a valve like that in the first place. Knowing they are designed to release pressure, it’s strange to place it under a vanity.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Joe1969

Got it. Thanks. I can’t help but wonder why they would install such a valve like that in the first place. Knowing they are designed to release pressure, it’s strange to place it under a vanity.

Be thankful that yours is "under the vanity"... On some trailers, it's actually "inside the wall, not accessbile" and in others, it's behind the shower wall, with access either from another room (often through the back of a cabinet) or the only access is to remove the shower faucet and "dig around with your hands to find it".....

As for "why they use that type anti-siphon valve"... PROFIT MARGINS... It's been that way for at least the last 16 or 20 years. I'd guess that it'll change, probably to a cheaper valve, as soon as the RV manufacturers locate a supplier that offers one that meets RVIA requirements and is 2 or 3 pennies cheaper. Till then, EVERY RV that I've seen with a black tank flush system uses the same type "cheap plastic valve"....

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Joe1969

Got it. Thanks. I can’t help but wonder why they would install such a valve like that in the first place. Knowing they are designed to release pressure, it’s strange to place it under a vanity.

Although lots of members have reported the failure of the cheap plastic valves, In my years as a tech I have seen only a few failures . It is common for it to be above the black tank and that puts it in the bathroom someplace. I have seen them in the wall behind the shower and they are a real PITA if they fail.

[Joe1969]

Too bad. $42 to replace it with the one suggested. In quantity Keystone could probably buy them at $20, and get away with adding $500 yo the price as a “leak resistant” upgrade.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by Joe1969

Too bad. $42 to replace it with the one suggested. In quantity Keystone could probably buy them at $20, and get away with adding $500 yo the price as a “leak resistant” upgrade.

at the risk of repeating myself, INDUSTRY WIDE, failure rate for the plastic ones is extremely low. And adding $500.00 to a lower end unit may make it too much for a budget constrained buyer.

[JRTJH]

I'm with Chuck on this one....

The ONLY failures of the anti-siphon valve that I've seen, have been "owner caused" by either not winterizing properly or by "damaging the valve by turning the city water on too fast (gradually turn on the water so the valve inner body doesn't "slam shut") or from using a water supply without a pressure regulator.....

But the vast majority of failures that I've seen have been "at first use after winter storage" and all of the owners have commented, "But it was working perfectly last fall when I cleaned the tank for winter storage".... That is a "VERY TELLING ADMISSION" of when the valve was damaged.....