09-14-2021, 11:54 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Portland, OR
Posts: 4,176
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH
In addition to the heated hose, you'll also need to provide heat/insulation to the faucet, upright water pipe (down to the freeze level in the ground) and to the actual connection on the side of the trailer.
Some "heated hoses" only provide heat to the actual vinyl part of the hose and leave the connections at each end "unprotected". Some other types do provide a means to heat the ends, including the faucet and the trailer connector.
Some people elect to use, as an example, a 25' standard RV hose and a 35' thermostat controlled heat tape. They run the heat tape next to the hose and enclose the entire thing in "pipe wrap". That leaves enough heat tape outside the insulation to wrap the faucet and protect the trailer connector.
There are several types of pipe insulation available. Some is foam tubing that forms around the hose, some is "pipe wrap" that comes in foam or fiberglass. There are also some people who use "closed cell pool noodles" but I'm not sure they would last all winter once they start to deteriorate.
Keep in mind that no matter which method of protecting a heat tape you might choose, if you lose electrical power, it's only a matter of an hour or so before the hose freezes, so if you lose power, turn the water off and drain the hose "early in the power failure"...
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We use the standard hose with heat tape and foam pipe insulation, has worked great for us in winter.
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Russ & Paula and Belle the Beagle.
2016 Ram Laramie 3500 DRW 14,000# GVWR (New TV)
2005 Copper Canyon 293 FWSLS 32 GVWR 12,360
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