Winterizing 2013 Keystone Sprinter 316BIK - Page 2

Max23 · 08-30-2023, 07:30 AM

The circled hose there is the "in" for the city water connection. Drops straight in before the pump and easily unscrews. Hopefully you have something similar. May save you a bit of money.

At least I'm thinking thats the correct side of the pump. Hopefully someone will tell me if I'm wrong as this will be my first year also of winterizing it myself. Had it done before, first for me on it.

**JRTJH** · 08-30-2023, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max23

The circled hose there is the "in" for the city water connection. Drops straight in before the pump and easily unscrews. Hopefully you have something similar. May save you a bit of money.

At least I'm thinking thats the correct side of the pump. Hopefully someone will tell me if I'm wrong as this will be my first year also of winterizing it myself. Had it done before, first for me on it.

I believe that is your pump OUTPUT side (all the blue PEX plumbing) in the circle and that white hose is the city water in line. The input is the "beige tube to the right of the pump (the back side in your photo)....

RagingRobert · 08-30-2023, 09:14 AM

I think you're good to go...just keep asking questions/looking at u-tube videos just in case

Maybe it's just me but since I got an RV and upgraded from sleeping in a Van with a kitchen tent, I only look for full service sites to use what my RV is designed for...it's supposed to be like a cottage on wheels

Sure it's nice to boon dock it once in a while and use your battery, water tank, and waste tanks until they're done

Plugging into everthing is RVing Imo, those days of water jugs, pee jugs, and no TV are long gone

Max23 · 08-30-2023, 09:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I believe that is your pump OUTPUT side (all the blue PEX plumbing) in the circle and that white hose is the city water in line. The input is the "beige tube to the right of the pump (the back side in your photo)....

Sooo, what are you saying John? In order to use my pump to push the anti freeze through Im gonna have to put a t connector on that back hose with the red paint on it to make it suck it through??

**JRTJH** · 08-30-2023, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max23

Sooo, what are you saying John? In order to use my pump to push the anti freeze through Im gonna have to put a t connector on that back hose with the red paint on it to make it suck it through??

Yup. And you might consider adding a strainer to keep the plastic shards that are in the tank from fouling your pump diaphragm while you've got it apart. https://www.amazon.com/Flojet-017403...%2C166&sr=8-13

As a side comment, this same "strainer" was $8 just 6 months ago... Made in china for USA use <sigh>

Max23 · 08-30-2023, 10:02 AM

LOL!!! Why am I not surprised at the huge price jump!!!! Thanks!

**JRTJH** · 08-30-2023, 10:12 AM

Here is a basic diagram of the RV water system. What you have circled in red is the "city water/pump output side" if the pump. The "suction side of the pump" is the side closest to the fresh water tank. The pump "draws water from the tank and pressurizes it for the RV system. The "city water connection" does the same thing (on the pressure side of the pump) and the "one way valve" on the city water connection, prevents the water from the tank, pressurized by the pump, from flowing out the city water connection on the side of the trailer when you are not connected to city water.

In your photo, the white hose in the circle is your city water connection. The blue PEX is the supply lines going to the cold water faucets and the water heater input fitting. The "pump suction line" is that beige hose on the back side of the pump. That beige hose is what you remove from the pump to connect your antifreeze fitting/vinyl tube to the pump suction.

**JRTJH** · 08-30-2023, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Max23

Sooo, what are you saying John? In order to use my pump to push the anti freeze through Im gonna have to put a t connector on that back hose with the red paint on it to make it suck it through??

Rereading what you posted, yes, the "back side beige hose with red paint on it" is the suction input to the pump (from the fresh water tank).

BUT: you do not need to put a "T" connector in it to draw antifreeze into the pump head. If you do it that way, you'll also need a shutoff valve "between the "T" and the water tank to prevent sucking water from the tank to mix with the antifreeze. If the tank is empty, it will not prime and will only suck air without a valve to stop the flow from the tank.

Max23 · 08-30-2023, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Rereading what you posted, yes, the "back side beige hose with red paint on it" is the suction input to the pump (from the fresh water tank).

BUT: you do not need to put a "T" connector in it to draw antifreeze into the pump head. If you do it that way, you'll also need a shutoff valve "between the "T" and the water tank to prevent sucking water from the tank to mix with the antifreeze. If the tank is empty, it will not prime and will only suck air without a valve to stop the flow from the tank.

Ya figured id have to do that, I havnt looked at it lately but it appears to me thats a simple hose clamp up there I can just remove and attach a hose to the anti freeze jug. I'll have to get in there and look closer again once it gets time to do it. Just getting my ducks in a row. Thanks for the assistance. I was thinking the other would be wayyyyyyy to simple to be correct. LOL

SadiesMom2 · 09-03-2023, 07:43 PM

If you don’t want to disconnect/reconnect the water pump, you can always dump a few gallons of antifreeze into the fresh water tank and use the pump to suck the antifreeze through the water lines.

Another thing I always do is dump about a gallon of antifreeze into each gray/black water tank. This will save you dump valves in case there is some water left in the tanks.

RagingRobert · 09-05-2023, 01:28 AM

I suggest you read #12 or better yet the whole thread SadiesMom2.

Stangfire · 09-05-2023, 12:11 PM

One last question, I think lol.

When I drain the fresh water tank and the low point drains (two I think) do I leave the caps off for the winter?

This is my first time doing it but I think the drain caps come right off.

I would think it's okay to put them back on the low point drains as it will fill back up with antifreeze when I run it through the pump. Correct?

What about the FW tank? There would always be some moisture left in the tank that would work it's way to the drain and that doesn't get antifreeze.

**flybouy** · 09-05-2023, 01:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stangfire

One last question, I think lol.

When I drain the fresh water tank and the low point drains (two I think) do I leave the caps off for the winter?

This is my first time doing it but I think the drain caps come right off.

I would think it's okay to put them back on the low point drains as it will fill back up with antifreeze when I run it through the pump. Correct?

What about the FW tank? There would always be some moisture left in the tank that would work it's way to the drain and that doesn't get antifreeze.

Replace the caps, you don't want critters getting into those water lines. A little water remaining in the FW tank will be fine. As long as there's room for expansion it won't break anything.

RagingRobert · 09-05-2023, 01:56 PM

Sounds like you're planning to put antifreeze into the WT...that's not good...please read this whole thread again

You want to draw in antifreeze from a hose connected to your water pump and into a jug of antifreeze...If you do it right no antifreeze will enter your WT. Make sure your WT is empty and put caps back on so you don't lose them

Stangfire · 09-06-2023, 03:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RagingRobert

Sounds like you're planning to put antifreeze into the WT...that's not good...please read this whole thread again

You want to draw in antifreeze from a hose connected to your water pump and into a jug of antifreeze...If you do it right no antifreeze will enter your WT. Make sure your WT is empty and put caps back on so you don't lose them

I will be doing exactly as you said. I only mentioned that antifreeze will go back into the low point drains as I run the antifreeze thought the pump and into the lines sucking from the jug of antifreeze. I will drain the fresh water tank empty and replace the cap. No antifreeze in it.

The last thing I wasn’t clear on as there is so much different information is how and if I need to winterize the city water inlet and the black tank flush. I searched and read so much different information. I decided to play it safe and bought an antifreeze hand pump. I will hand pump into them so I sleep better at night, lol.

RagingRobert · 09-06-2023, 04:28 AM

A good idea to hand pump antifreeze into those lines as well. I usually don't because I blow out those lines but a good reminder for me to pump some in to keep things from drying out...we do have cold winters over here too

I think you're good to go...actually I bought my jug of antifreeze on sale @ Canadian Tire yesterday

Alibaddy · 09-16-2023, 09:28 AM

We have a 2021 Alpine 3650RL with a demand hot water heater. I am uncertain about the position the bypass valve should be in to keep the plumbing antifreeze out of the heater. The valve has two positions - "ON" and "OFF". If the valve is in the "ON" position, am I correct that the water will bypass the heater, or does it mean that the heater is "ON"? Sorry for a stupid question.

RagingRobert · 09-16-2023, 10:57 AM

I'm assuming again

Bypass ON means nothing goes into HW tank, bypass off means water goes into HW tank. Sorry if I gave a stupid answer

Alibaddy · 09-16-2023, 02:22 PM

Thank you for your reply. I made the assumption that since this is a demand hot water heater it would not be the same situation as a tank heater where turning on the gas with an empty tank would cause potential damage. So I turn the bypass to the off position connected a hose with water and activated the heater, and got hot water as expected. So it is clear that the bypass in the on position prevents water from going to the heater. Your response wasn't stupid, and perhaps my question was.

Stangfire · 10-01-2023, 06:43 AM

I got everything winterized yesterday using the antifreeze method. Once I had pink coming out all faucets I turned off the pump and called it done. Hooked the water line back to the pump. After I got home from the 2 hour drive from camp I thought to myself I should have opened all the faucets to relief the pressure. Perhaps the pressure will bleed off on its own?

Do you think this is an issue? Should the taps have been left open all winter? I had lots of antifreeze coming out all faucets.

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