New bullet black tank flush

[Bbouch84]

our new 2020 bullet has the whole dockingnstation thing andnit has a black tank flush. Now i tried to use it and it didnt take any water is there a valve im missing somewhere?

[Logan X]

The black tank flush has a check valve on it to prevent backflow. Sometimes those are installed backwards so it won’t let water in. Mine is under the sink in the bathroom.

It has an arrow on it to show which way the water should flow.

[Bbouch84]

Thanks i checked it hooked up correctly.. i have free movement from docking station to valve.. valve works good but i cant push any air or anything from the side to black tank.. like its blocked or something

[Bbouch84]

Update: The check valve works and is installed properly. I get water and air to check valve and passed check vavle with unhooked from outlet line. However nothing moves passed check valve seems like another valve somewhere. Or blockage.

[Logan X]

How do you know your not getting water in the black tank?

[Bbouch84]

Good question. Well i braved it and blew air into the line at at a low psi and no movement at all. Other than that i dont know. I figured it would spray and use some water pretty decently but the check valve was even dry when i took it off the line before my tests.

[JRTJH]

The way your system is "built" there is a 1/2" PEX line from the anti-siphon valve down to the spray nozzle in the black tank. Usually there's a compression screwon fitting to connect the PEX to the spray nozzle. Occasionally the PEX does "crimp" at the "turn from vertical to horizontal" and that crimp will block air/water flow.

If you feel "up to it" you can remove the underbelly cover and troubleshoot it. Otherwise, if you're getting water flow from the sidewall connector to the anti-siphon valve, but not from that fitting to the tank, I'd suspect a crimped line in a new trailer... Once the black tank has been used several times, possibly TP or "crud" can dry on the nozzle and block the flow, but on a new tank, that's not likely...

I'd suspect that PEX line is crimped.

Added: CAUTION !!! Occasionally the fitting on the PEX is not connected to the tank nozzle. If that's the case, you "could be filling your underbelly with water" without realizing it. So, turn on the "test water" carefully.....

[Keystoned]

Yeah, sounds like a warranty issue. BTDT the hard way and ended up replacing the nozzle.
Good luck.

[Bbouch84]

How difficult is it to start to remove the underbelly cover? Sorry for all the questions we went from 2001 cub with bare bones handed down to us to a loaded up 2020 bullet our first purchase..

[Keystoned]

Not as bad a putting it back together, lol. If you have basic mechanical skills, no problem.

[JRTJH]

It depends on what material was used on your trailer underbelly. If it was COROPLAST (corrugated plastic) then it's fairly easy to reinstall. If it was DARCO (think blue plastic tarp) then you'll never get it reinstalled. The way the factory installed it was while the chassis was inverted (wheels up) they laid the DARCO in place, taped the folded ends around the frame and when they sat the chassis on its wheels, they laid the flooring in place, stapled the "wrapped around DARCO" to the top of the flooring. There's no "seam to remove the bottom DARCO, so you'll have to cut it off and tape it back in place... It never seems to work properly after reinstalled...

So, if it's COROPLAST, you can do it fairly easy if you like to cuss... If it's DARCO, call your dealer.....

[Logan X]

I’m just going to offer a unique opinion and take it for whatever it is worth.

I am 100% the kind of guy that likes to have everything working properly and it bothers me when stuff isn’t working right. Having said that, I thought my black tank flush wasn’t working when I first bought my trailer. For whatever reason, I never tried to get it fixed. So I went a couple of years without flushing the tank. Do you know how many problems I had from not flushing the tank, zero. There were no issues whatsoever. No bad odors, nothing. After a couple of years I decided it was time to fix the flush so I found and removed the check valve. I don’t know what kind of magic I used, but after doing nothing more than reinstalling the check valve, the tank flusher was working.

So what did I learn. I mainly learned that I didn’t really need a black tank flush. I use it now, maybe twice a year, just because it’s there. I am perfectly happy without it.

My point in saying all this is not to discourage you from tearing into it. Go for it. Especially if your stuck at home with nothing else to do.

But, if you don’t really want to spend the time and energy on it, it’s pretty easy to go without having a black tank flush. And who knows, maybe in a couple of years it will magically start working.

Anyways, good luck with whatever you decide.

[Keystoned]

If it's coroplast and you need to cut it, you will need special tape to seal it up and you may need 'great stuff' for the edges.

[sourdough]

Since you've ran the trouble past the check valve into the line feeding the system you are now looking at having to do some "intrusive" stuff to the trailer. If it is coroplast (hopefully) it is highly possible that you would have to cut the coroplast to get wherever you need to be. The pex fitting could be compromised or the flush mechanism itself. Trying to dig into that could mandate that you do something that would not only compromise the trailer but also your warranty. Is taking it to the dealer out of the question? If so, we need to proceed on with the best way to access those components just keep the above in mind.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by Bbouch84

Good question. Well i braved it and blew air into the line at at a low psi and no movement at all. Other than that i dont know. I figured it would spray and use some water pretty decently but the check valve was even dry when i took it off the line before my tests.

The easiest way to "test" IMO is to get a clear connector and place it between the 3" dump line and the hose. Drain the tank. Turn the water supply for rinser on and let in run for a min or two. Go look at the clear section and if water is flowing then it's working, if not then my first guess would by John's "pinched water line" theory.

[chuckster57]

If you need to remove the coroplast, odds are it’s “nailed” in place. I have used a die grinder to remove the heads, and pulled it down. Then just punch the nail out and replace with a self tapping screw.

One would think that if the rinser wasn’t working on a new unit, it would have been caught and dealt with by the PDI tech....oh yeah, I forgot lots of dealers don’t even check new units prior to delivery.

[Bbouch84]

WOW!!! Thanks everyone for all the info. So knowing how i am if im supposed to have it then i want it to work. After talking with my better half and thinking about doing it myself vs having the warranty done. We have used the "wand" on our old camper and im sure we can use that the rest of this season and then come winterizing time take it in for warranty work . Im sure with the hand me down tt that her parents gave us they NEVER flushed the tank i am just very picky and dont want any problems on the road but im sure there will always be one outside of my control but preventative is better than negligent am i correct on that? So im thinking at the ending of the season be like um this dont work fix it. Is that wrong?

[Keystoned]

As long as you use the tanks correctly, you should be fine for a while.

[BadmanRick]

If your Camper is new TAKE IT BACK TO THE DEALER it is under full warranty. Have it fixed correctly and it will still remain under warranty.

[poelma]

Yes, check installation.