Leak at toilet that they can't seem to fix..

[Sarge2]

Ok... General RV has "attempted" to fix a few water leaks on my 2020 Passport... I'm tired of hearing "oh we just tightened the fitting".. I know from experience that over tightening plastic fittings will create more issues then they resolve..
My feed line to the toilet leaks... very little, but it leaks and will leave a small puddle under the fitting..
My question is simply, what fitting, gasket or ? do I use to just fix this thing myself...the fitting on the toilet is on blue pex tubing and goes into the plastic fitting on the toilet... is there a kit/package that I get to replace the fitting and gasket or ?.. sorry if this seems a bit simple but I've looked up pex fittings and there are are/is a myriad of types.. I'd assume the pex is 1/2"...
Do I just take it apart and take the parts in to match them? Maybe I answered my own question... lol..

[wiredgeorge]

A picture would help as I got a little confused by your description. You said "fitting on the toilet is on blue pex tubing and goes into the plastic fitting on the toilet". I am pretty sure the feed line is coming out of the floor. How the the feed line connect to the toilet? (this is where the picture comes in). I put a shut off valve inline with the feed line so I could work on the toilet or remove it if needed without shutting off the water supply to the camper. In any case, Pex fittings require special tools to clamp the fitting or you can use radiator clamps but I would hesitate using these on plastic fittings. Once a Pex fitting is clamped by a Pex fastener, not sure it can be tightened up.

[sourdough]

Did they perchance cross thread it or put it on cockeyed? My fitting on the end of the pex that screws into the toilet connection has a rubber dome seal similar to the lower pic in this link;

https://www.grainger.com/product/444...g!663170285712!

Do you suppose they left it out? Put it on crooked? Possibly cracked the plastic fitting?

[JRTJH]

If your toilet is a Dometic, the leak may not be from the "blue pex/fitting" but may be internal to the toilet. The toilet flush valve (that the blue pex/fitting screws onto) has a O-ring seal where it goes into the toilet body. Sometimes the two stainless steel screws that hold that "snap on flush valve" to the toilet body will be missing or loose. That may be the source of your "occasional small pool of water under the flush valve.

[Customer1]

If you start taking things apart it should become obvious. Based on the minimal description plus past working on them, it could be a bad cone washer in the connector.

[NH_Bulldog]

I just replaced the toilet valve on my 2019 Passport. It would occasionally leave a small puddle of water under the foot valve after using it, but held water all other times. It is a common issue. So common in fact that Dometic sent me a free replacement valve. When I replaced the valve, I found the old valve was only held in with one screw, so I used the two supplied with the new valve when I installed it. I also noticed that the blue Pex feed line that came out from under the tub was not parallel to the toilet fitting and the 90° fitting had some strain on it to be able to connect to the valve. I widened out the access hole to relieve the strain and two weeks of use hasn’t produced a single drip since the replacement.

[Sarge2]

I will try to get a better photo of the location of the leak... the pex line actually comes out of the side of tub area over to the toilet then 90's with a short pex line and fitting into the back of the toilet behind the seat... the attached photo is the only one I have and you can just see the fitting at the rear of the toilet...no where near the flush valve...

Its really odd how it is suspended in the air like that behind toilet... doesn't come out of the floor.... right out from the side of bathtub surround at bottom near the wall...

As soon as I can get back to the trailer where it's sitting, I'll get a better shot of the area... I've attached a poor if anything, drawing...lol

To try to explain better, the pex line comes out from under the tub, over to the toilet, has a 90 that's clamped together then into the toilet fitting in the back...it will drip enough over a few hours to leave a small puddle about the size of a half dollar...not a lot but it leaks...

[hankpage]

I had the same problem with my flush valve. When I replaced it I found there was too much strain on it from the tight turn in the Pex. I cut the Pex back close to the wall and installed 1/4 turn Sharkbite shutoff valve. From that I used a flexible toilet supply line of the proper length to reach the flush valve with no strain. It also made it much easier to get the flush valve threaded straight. Made it look neater with a 1/2 in. chrome escutcheon on the wall to cover their over sized hole. If it leaked again I could turn it off at the wall and just turn it on when needed. Of course it never leaked again in ten years.

[JRTJH]

Reading your description of the way your PEX line has a 1/4 turn wire mold on it to "turn the PEX so it can connect to the toilet valve, I agree with Hank. Chances are there's "side tension" on the PEX connection that's "pulling the Dometic inlet valve to the side" causing the O-ring to unseat and occasionally drip.

Cut off the PEX where it makes that 90 degree bend, install a shutoff valve (for convenience) and then a flexible supply hose from there to the toilet. Unless the tension has "deformed the toilet valve over the years, the valve should stop leaking. If it still leaks, buy a replacement valve, make sure it's installed wtih TWO screws and your problem should be solved.... $25 for a new valve is "much cheaper" than 2 weeks of your trailer sitting in a service department storage lot during camping season.....

[NH_Bulldog]

This is what mine looks like at the moment. Notice that the pex is not straight to the toilet 90° elbow fitting. This plus only one screw holding the valve in place caused it to leak. I have the new valve installed temporarily, but will be doing exactly what Hank did and installing a shutoff and flexible supply line to the toilet this week.

[Sarge2]

Originally Posted by hankpage

I had the same problem with my flush valve. When I replaced it I found there was too much strain on it from the tight turn in the Pex. I cut the Pex back close to the wall and installed 1/4 turn Sharkbite shutoff valve. From that I used a flexible toilet supply line of the proper length to reach the flush valve with no strain. It also made it much easier to get the flush valve threaded straight. Made it look neater with a 1/2 in. chrome escutcheon on the wall to cover their over sized hole. If it leaked again I could turn it off at the wall and just turn it on when needed. Of course it never leaked again in ten years.

Sure sounds like a plan... I will check it this weekend and see if that is the case... mine does look like yours... so probably the same issues... thanks for the info and fix... I'd be happy with a ten year fix...lol..

[Sarge2]

Originally Posted by NH_Bulldog

This is what mine looks like at the moment. Notice that the pex is not straight to the toilet 90° elbow fitting. This plus only one screw holding the valve in place caused it to leak. I have the new valve installed temporarily, but will be doing exactly what Hank did and installing a shutoff and flexible supply line to the toilet this week.

Sorry mine looks like YOURS.... I will take Hanks advise for sure...
Thanks again...

[Sarge2]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Reading your description of the way your PEX line has a 1/4 turn wire mold on it to "turn the PEX so it can connect to the toilet valve, I agree with Hank. Chances are there's "side tension" on the PEX connection that's "pulling the Dometic inlet valve to the side" causing the O-ring to unseat and occasionally drip.

Cut off the PEX where it makes that 90 degree bend, install a shutoff valve (for convenience) and then a flexible supply hose from there to the toilet. Unless the tension has "deformed the toilet valve over the years, the valve should stop leaking. If it still leaks, buy a replacement valve, make sure it's installed wtih TWO screws and your problem should be solved.... $25 for a new valve is "much cheaper" than 2 weeks of your trailer sitting in a service department storage lot during camping season.....

I will take your advise as well as, Hank and Bulldog's... why do they only install one screw? Sorry that was a stupid question..lol...I thank you all for the great advise and I will follow it.... can't argue with the guys in the know...

[capnkirk4]

I had a similar problem on my 2016 Keystone Bullet a couple of times. Both times it was due to a small check valve at the back of the toilet (you can see the small clip in the pic someone attached). It's about $34, and I have had to replace it twice. Both times it seemed to do with winterizing. I blew the water out of the lines, and it seems ok now.

[Freder]

I had a similar problem, with everything plastic it was very difficult to find the problem. But I did. My air brake valve was installed at an angle. So every time it was flushed a smal amount of water squirted out and followed the lines down giving the impression a fitting was leaking. Took it apart numerous times. Now when flushing a lot of water through the holding tank when emptying it created a good sized puddle. After watching the breaker valve I figured that can't be right. Figuring nothing to loose I grabbed it and straightened it out. Neck it was only inserted through a big rubber grommet. Once straightened my problem disappeared.

[JohnP]

Originally Posted by Sarge2

Ok... General RV has "attempted" to fix a few water leaks on my 2020 Passport... I'm tired of hearing "oh we just tightened the fitting".. I know from experience that over tightening plastic fittings will create more issues then they resolve..
My feed line to the toilet leaks... very little, but it leaks and will leave a small puddle under the fitting..
My question is simply, what fitting, gasket or ? do I use to just fix this thing myself...the fitting on the toilet is on blue pex tubing and goes into the plastic fitting on the toilet... is there a kit/package that I get to replace the fitting and gasket or ?.. sorry if this seems a bit simple but I've looked up pex fittings and there are are/is a myriad of types.. I'd assume the pex is 1/2"...
Do I just take it apart and take the parts in to match them? Maybe I answered my own question... lol..

I had a leak problem right behind the toilet and I thought it was the hose clamp but upon investigation. I found there was a hairline crack in the actual flush valve probably due to improper pre-winter maintenance I don't think I drained the water from the flush valve and it froze and split. I ended up having to order a new one it was difficult to repair the hairline crack I tried several times with epoxy after 4 x I think I was able to stop the leak but I'm keeping the repaired part as a spare

[clockmanjim]

I replaced the valve yesterday in my 2021 Passport 219BH. My leak is also at the 90 on the waterline. The fitting doesn't seem to be tight in the pex. Looking at the suggestions, confirms my thoughts of using different fittings and flexible hose.
Thank you all.

[bobbecky]

Once they over tighten one of those fittings and it still leaks, you need to replace the cone washer. https://www.amazon.com/Flair-16435-P...a-905943808012

[bobbecky]

Originally Posted by clockmanjim

I replaced the valve yesterday in my 2021 Passport 219BH. My leak is also at the 90 on the waterline. The fitting doesn't seem to be tight in the pex. Looking at the suggestions, confirms my thoughts of using different fittings and flexible hose.
Thank you all.

I would do this in your situation. https://www.amazon.com/SharkBite-230...9373855&sr=8-9

https://www.amazon.com/Eastman-48131...9373968&sr=8-6

[skids]

The swivel FPT fitting can leak if they do not thread straight onto the male counterpart. In other words, side stress from a connecting hose that is to short can be trouble.