Over weight??? Truck upgrades???

[allenband08]

I am looking at the 29MBS 5th wheel. I have a 2019 1500 silverado. With my specs, the truck can tow 9,800lbs total.

The RV dealer told me that it is not recommended to tow more than 8,800lbs. (Specifically said 1,000lbs less than Chevy)

The 29MBS I want is 9,100lbs. That is 300lbs over the RV dealer's recommendations but 700lbs under Chevy's recommendations.

I can upgrade the gear ratio of the rear end and upgrade to a limited slip differential for about $2,700 and gain an additional 2,000lbs or more. I can also put air bags on the rear end to counter the drop. (Haven't got a quote yet)

Can someone explain why the RV dealer says 1,000 lbs less then Chevy.

Do i need to spend about $5,000 to make upgrades to my truck?

Thanks in advance

PS... a new, bigger truck is NOT in the package at the moment.

[wiredgeorge]

Originally Posted by allenband08

I am looking at the 29MBS 5th wheel. I have a 2019 1500 silverado. With my specs, the truck can tow 9,800lbs total.

The RV dealer told me that it is not recommended to tow more than 8,800lbs. (Specifically said 1,000lbs less than Chevy)

The 29MBS I want is 9,100lbs. That is 300lbs over the RV dealer's recommendations but 700lbs under Chevy's recommendations.

I can upgrade the gear ratio of the rear end and upgrade to a limited slip differential for about $2,700 and gain an additional 2,000lbs or more. I can also put air bags on the rear end to counter the drop. (Haven't got a quote yet)

Can someone explain why the RV dealer says 1,000 lbs less then Chevy.

Do i need to spend about $5,000 to make upgrades to my truck?

Thanks in advance

PS... a new, bigger truck is NOT in the package at the moment.

That trailer will be 11-12K lbs fully loaded and give you a tongue weight of over 1500 lbs for sure. Your truck ain't up to it. As everyone is told, you have a sticker in the door frame of your truck with the payload and this is usually the short pole in the tent. Relying on either the Chevy or Keystone dealer for facts on what is safe to tow may not be wise. I am guessing with a 32' 5ver at over 11K lbs you are edging into 1 ton range.

[allenband08]

So will these upgrades to the truck and/or others compensate enough to be able to work?

This will be my first trailer and I just started looking to buy so I am new at all of this, so please forgive my ignorance on the subject matter.

[tech740]

So never use dry weights. Use max weights because it will get there. That is a 11,000 lbs camper with someplace between a 2200 and 2700lb pin weight. That is way north of most half tons. If you look in the drivers door there is a yellow and white sticker that says "the maximum weight of cargo and passenger shall not exceed XXXXlbs" I am guessing that number is not that high. Plus that is when the truck came off the line, a full tank of fuel, plus 150lbs for the driver. So anything you have added plus the weight of the hitch, gear, passengers, and any over 150lbs for you must come off that number before you hook up. Don't fall for the half ton towable gimmik. I used to have a 2010 Ram 2500 diesel and in all honesty that trailer is to big for that based on payload only.

[allenband08]

They really pushed that half ton tow. It's frustrating because I gave them the specs on the truck

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by allenband08

They really pushed that half ton tow. It's frustrating because I gave them the specs on the truck

The RV dealer could care less about your ability to tow that trailer or your safety. I would suspect that the trailer tongue weight would be FAR more than your trucks payload - and then there would be you (a driver) and all the necessary things you have to have. A 1/2 ton truck, and you have a light weight, that can only "max tow" (meaningless) 8800-9100 lbs. has NO, ZERO, business strapping an 11,000 lb. trailer behind it...none. Your numbers don't even start to add up.

Get the numbers off your the inside of your driver's door. You might tow a 7000lb bumper pull (at .13% for tongue weight) but you have NO way in this world to reasonably strap an 11,000lb 5th wheel on that truck with a pin weight of 2200+ lbs. Post the specifics on the truck. Since it is non negotiable those numbers are the end all, be all of what you can safely put behind it.

[notanlines]

George, RJ and Danny all gave you good advice. Your truck is FAR from being a capable TV for that 5th wheel. Avoid 5th wheels like the plague with a 1500/150. It ain't up to it. You can change gears, install truck tires, add a leaf spring, and air bags. All you've done is put lipstick on a pig. Cute, but still a pig. Find a nice 24' bumper pull with one slide and learn from there.

[chuckster57]

Use the numbers that Danny has pointed out. The weight figures on that sticker are the federally certified limits. Adding anything or modifying anything doesn’t change those numbers.

As stated, the RV dealership could care less if your truck is actually rated to tow his trailer for sale, all he’s looking for is a sale.

[CWtheMan]

Originally Posted by allenband08

I am looking at the 29MBS 5th wheel. I have a 2019 1500 silverado. With my specs, the truck can tow 9,800lbs total.

The RV dealer told me that it is not recommended to tow more than 8,800lbs. (Specifically said 1,000lbs less than Chevy)

The 29MBS I want is 9,100lbs. That is 300lbs over the RV dealer's recommendations but 700lbs under Chevy's recommendations.

I can upgrade the gear ratio of the rear end and upgrade to a limited slip differential for about $2,700 and gain an additional 2,000lbs or more. I can also put air bags on the rear end to counter the drop. (Haven't got a quote yet)

Can someone explain why the RV dealer says 1,000 lbs less then Chevy.

Do i need to spend about $5,000 to make upgrades to my truck?

Thanks in advance

PS... a new, bigger truck is NOT in the package at the moment.

The ultimate limiter is the truck's GVWR. There is nothing you can do to change that.

Many opt to throw caution to the wind with add-ons. I'd NEVER recommend loading beyond certified vehicle GVWR.

[flybouy]

Here's the bottom line, you stated that "your looking at" the trailer which would imply you haven't pulled the trigger yet. You also state that "a new truck isn't doable". The logical conclusion is to look at trailers that are appropriately sized for the limiting factor which is the truck's payload.

It's beyond just a matter of what's practical. Towing overloaded by a large margin is dangerous for you, your family, and the family driving by you on the highway. If this is a "done deal" and your stuck with it, then my advice would be to get a seasonal site, pay to have it towed there and enjoy it. Then when you can get an appropriately sized truck start your travels.

[cavediver]

There's more involved than the truck carrying it. The frame, type of rear end, suspension and brakes. And it's like many said it's still a 1500. If you where involved in an accident the lawyers will find out everything, and have a field day. My 2500hd weights a lot more than a 1500, it can handle the weight but it's probably on the light side to carry the trailer you want.

[Salsaman1a]

I hear yeah. Bottom line is suspension and braking. Use this link as a tool to help you along..
https://www.fifthwheelmagazine.com/new-tow-calc.aspx

[meaz93*]

Brake upgrade (Powerstops for me); shocks (Bilsteins for me), Hellwig rear sway bar, E rated truck tires, air bags, etc...

[notanlines]

Meaz, how much do you suppose that raised the ‘cargo capacity’ figure? Are you able to tow more and heavier loads? Oh, sorry...

[meaz93*]

You can't add to the cargo weight capacity of your truck, only subtract. That being said I am a firm believer in airbags, brakes, suspension upgrades.
You can make the truck handle the weight more stable or controlled, but you cannot increase payload unless possibly changing out the trucks spring pack and rear differential setup.

[Nate805]

Way too much trailer on my opinion. I had a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500. 5.3L with 3.42 gears. I swapped the gears for 4.10, tuned the truck and put a super spring in it. That all improved the towing but at 8,500lbs loaded, my travel trailer was too much for truck. I was within all tow specs: payload, axle, bumper pull, GCVWR, etc.. but my truck would get way too hot climbing hills (live in CA and go to the Lou rains with 6% grades). The truck also could not stop the trailer very well. I had to use the trailer breaks much more than I liked to slow everything down.

I eventually sold my 1500 and switched to a 2020 GMC Sierra AT4 HD. It’s a 6.6L Duramax with 3,100 lbs of payload and can tow 18,500 lbs. I thought I was safe in my old truck at the upper end of the limits. Driving the new truck and trailer across the country in snow, ice, rain, wind and through mountains, I can tell my old truck was not very stable or safe. Long story short. Don’t exceed your limits, even with aftermarket stuff. Leave plenty of room below your limits. You’ll enjoy towing much better, your truck will love much longer and you’ll be safe (most important).

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by Nate805

Way too much trailer on my opinion. I had a 2014 GMC Sierra 1500. 5.3L with 3.42 gears. I swapped the gears for 4.10, tuned the truck and put a super spring in it. That all improved the towing but at 8,500lbs loaded, my travel trailer was too much for truck. I was within all tow specs: payload, axle, bumper pull, GCVWR, etc.. but my truck would get way too hot climbing hills (live in CA and go to the Lou rains with 6% grades). The truck also could not stop the trailer very well. I had to use the trailer breaks much more than I liked to slow everything down.

I eventually sold my 1500 and switched to a 2020 GMC Sierra AT4 HD. It’s a 6.6L Duramax with 3,100 lbs of payload and can tow 18,500 lbs. I thought I was safe in my old truck at the upper end of the limits. Driving the new truck and trailer across the country in snow, ice, rain, wind and through mountains, I can tell my old truck was not very stable or safe. Long story short. Don’t exceed your limits, even with aftermarket stuff. Leave plenty of room below your limits. You’ll enjoy towing much better, your truck will love much longer and you’ll be safe (most important).

Nate you are so on point!

If anyone read back on my posts from years ago you would see that guy that absolutely would not buy an HD truck (I didn't like them - think 1980s early 90s). I loved my 1/2 tons and was going to do whatever it took to pull "whatever" so I didn't give them up. Bad decision. Bought our previous trailer knowing I was maxing out but also knowing I could "add" stuff and "make it better"...and I did.

The problem for me was the knowledge; that I was maxed out; towing just over my limit even if it "towed fine" as I posted on this forum. One long trip cross country, worrying about every semi coming up on me, watching DW traveling along feeling safe because she trusts me implicitly - I was sick, literally. The minute I got home I found a HD truck that I liked even though I was absolutely positive I would detest it. Whoa! Not only did the truck not beat me up like I thought, all that "it drives just fine"? That was bologna! No comparison pulling that trailer with the 1/2 ton then the 3/4.....did I say NO comparison? Just a fact. As has been said on this forum many times "you just don't know what you don't know"....and that is very true.

Anyone pulling a larger trailer, close to maxed out with a 1/2 ton just doesn't know what they don't know and how they are not only endangering themselves and others but wearing out their vehicle - there IS a better way.

[CedarCreekWoody]

Take that $5,000 you are willing to spend on upgrades as well as trading in your current truck and see if you can afford something that actual manage a trailer that size.

[rhagfo]

Originally Posted by allenband08

I am looking at the 29MBS 5th wheel. I have a 2019 1500 silverado. With my specs, the truck can tow 9,800lbs total.

The RV dealer told me that it is not recommended to tow more than 8,800lbs. (Specifically said 1,000lbs less than Chevy)

The 29MBS I want is 9,100lbs. That is 300lbs over the RV dealer's recommendations but 700lbs under Chevy's recommendations.

I can upgrade the gear ratio of the rear end and upgrade to a limited slip differential for about $2,700 and gain an additional 2,000lbs or more. I can also put air bags on the rear end to counter the drop. (Haven't got a quote yet)

Can someone explain why the RV dealer says 1,000 lbs less then Chevy.

Do i need to spend about $5,000 to make upgrades to my truck?

Thanks in advance

PS... a new, bigger truck is NOT in the package at the moment.

Well If a larger truck is not in the package at this time, time to look at a Travel Trailer, the weights are well above your 1500.

2020 Keystone Cougar Half-Ton (All Regions) 29MBS
Dry Weight 8,760#
Payload Capacity 2,240#
GVWR 11,000#
Hitch Weight 1,630#
If you load light say 1,300#, and that comes quickly puts you right at 10,000# GVW and at 20% pin 2,000# pin weight.

Not what you can pull, it is what you can can carry. Look on that 3rd sticker, which I believe list the maximum 5th wheel pin. This is to allow for passengers and stuff carried in the truck.

[wiredgeorge]

Our weight patrol squad is like a bunch of reformed smokers! Bwhahahaha Sad thing is this seems to be a recurring issue with new camper owners or prospective owners and notwithstanding tire talk and the sure fate of owning China bombs, this has to be the most popular topic on this forum. The saddest thing is when someone comes onto the forum, asks for advice regarding the suitability of a tow vehicle vis a vis a particular camper and then argues numbers which only exist on sales brochures or flow from the mouth of an RV salesman.

Does anyone ever recall a situation where a newb came in and was told they had way more truck than needed and the newb lamented they didn't buy a much heavier trailer? If you take your DW into a sales lot and go through a 27' trailer then a 37' trailer, which will be the favorite? Room (aka weight) is a distinct advantage and is a lure.

The main problem many have when getting bit by the camping bug is they have a pickup owned by the bank that was originally used as a commuter and probably isn't suitable for any trailer hauling and they can't afford to trade in (are upside down on their note) for a suitable towing truck. There is the usual cause of denial and the inclination to believe stats and specs that bear no relevance to their awkward towing situation.