Solar for a beginner

Mcslap13 · 09-05-2022, 09:40 PM

Originally wondering if it's even remotely viable to think about a solar set up to run the the Camper off of, as many of you have said, answer is no. Too expensive for not great returns and that's what I was curious about. Thanks!

**chuckster57** · 09-06-2022, 02:49 AM

If your fridge is an RV absorption type, you can run it in LP and it will use very little 12V for the controls. Are you going to mount the solar on the roof, or maybe an array on the ground since your “permanent”? Battery bank in the trailer or maybe next to it depending on the size/number of batteries?

You’ll need a little math, to figure out the draw of the things you want to power, from there you can start to think about how much solar and how much energy storage you’ll need.

**flybouy** · 09-06-2022, 05:49 AM

If you are looking at fully powering up a 50 Amp camper to run 2 air-conditioners and space heaters I think $7K would be insufficient. That MIGHT get you the lithium batteries to get you thru the night but not the solar panels and controllers and wire necessary. I'm sure others with more knowledge will chime in.

The simple math, let's say 2 a/c units drawing 20 amps each at 120 vac = 4,800 watts per hour of compressor run time. That's a LOT of battery capacity and a LOT of solar capacity to maintain those batteries. I'm guessing you pay a lot of electric bills before getting your money back.

**JRTJH** · 09-06-2022, 06:06 AM

I'm not intending to dampen your "quest for solar" but reading through your posts, it seems you are very young, still currently living at home, have purchased a "destination Hideout" as a starter home for you, your girlfriend and some birds that will occupy the front bunkhouse. The trailer is going to be set up around the Parma, ID area ???

I'd urge you to not invest a lot of money on solar experimentation before you get the trailer "prepped for winter living"... It sounds like this is a "first home, bought on a slim budget, with not a lot of overhead cash without incurring debt to finance the investment"...

IMO, during this first winter, you would do well to focus on spending cash on things like getting the 50 amp power to the trailer (assuming it has the optional 50 amp power center). If it only has the standard 30 amp power center, you may find that you don't have enough available power for things like space heaters, fresh water supply hose or tank heaters for your holding tanks without upgrading the shore power system.

You are going to find that the temperature around that area will have highs in the 20's and 30's from October through March with lows in the teens and 20's during some of those months.

I'd urge you to focus on how to keep water flowing to the trailer, how to dump the waste water without it freezing, how to keep the underside of the trailer "skirted against the cold" and how to cover the single pane windows and the holes/leaks in the slide seals so you can live in the trailer during Idaho's cold months.

Right now, it's warm and comfortable around your trailer, but in just a couple of months that will change to a situation where you'll need a bulk supply of propane or regular weekly visits to a propane filling station for the 20/30 pound tanks that came with the trailer.

Solar to "run the trailer basics" is a lofty goal, but I'd suggest you hold off on any major investment in solar until you get the trailer set up to survive the temperatures you're going to see in a couple of months. That 30K BTU furnace will burn through a 30 pound tank in 2 or 3 days (max) trying to keep the trailer warm when it's in the 20's outside and you'll find ice buildup on the inside of the windows as well as frozen plumbing unless you focus on getting it prepped for cold winter weather.....

Good Luck, but I think you're a "brave soul" to try to live in a Hideout during the winter. It's going to be an experience you'll never forget, that's for sure !!!!!

**sourdough** · 09-06-2022, 06:15 AM

I know there are solar fans but I'm not one. For power augmentation/charging batteries? Sure. Trying to power up a 50A trailer like a house? Not for me. I know folks that have added solar to homes, some like it some not so much. All have basic incoming power from the power company in case the solar isn't up to the job. Knew a fella in the mountains that built a very nice log home where there were no facilities, going to power it with solar and wind. Ended up he couldn't come up in the winter and sometimes, maybe he could in the summer. Had to truck in water. Tried to sell it and no one wants to pay for all that "stuff" and it be so unreliable. It's been sitting there for years now growing over with a for sale sign out on the property.

If it were me I'd get that 50A ran for the trailer and if it is sort of remote a 8-9k inverter generator and be done with it. You could put you a solar array on stands on the ground but 1) they take up quite a bit of space for that much, 2) the required batteries/conrtol equipment etc. will require a separate building and 3) the cost would be not only prohibitive but unrecoverable. I don't know where you are financially but when I was 22 I would have wanted to cover the basics and wait until I had enough cash in the bank that 15-20k was a drop in the bucket before I contemplated something that involved.

Mcslap13 · 09-06-2022, 06:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

I'm not intending to dampen your "quest for solar" but reading through your posts, it seems you are very young, still currently living at home, have purchased a "destination Hideout" as a starter home for you, your girlfriend and some birds that will occupy the front bunkhouse. The trailer is going to be set up around the Parma, ID area ???

I'd urge you to not invest a lot of money on solar experimentation before you get the trailer "prepped for winter living"... It sounds like this is a "first home, bought on a slim budget, with not a lot of overhead cash without incurring debt to finance the investment"...

IMO, during this first winter, you would do well to focus on spending cash on things like getting the 50 amp power to the trailer (assuming it has the optional 50 amp power center). If it only has the standard 30 amp power center, you may find that you don't have enough available power for things like space heaters, fresh water supply hose or tank heaters for your holding tanks without upgrading the shore power system.

You are going to find that the temperature around that area will have highs in the 20's and 30's from October through March with lows in the teens and 20's during some of those months.

I'd urge you to focus on how to keep water flowing to the trailer, how to dump the waste water without it freezing, how to keep the underside of the trailer "skirted against the cold" and how to cover the single pane windows and the holes/leaks in the slide seals so you can live in the trailer during Idaho's cold months.

Right now, it's warm and comfortable around your trailer, but in just a couple of months that will change to a situation where you'll need a bulk supply of propane or regular weekly visits to a propane filling station for the 20/30 pound tanks that came with the trailer.

Solar to "run the trailer basics" is a lofty goal, but I'd suggest you hold off on any major investment in solar until you get the trailer set up to survive the temperatures you're going to see in a couple of months. That 30K BTU furnace will burn through a 30 pound tank in 2 or 3 days (max) trying to keep the trailer warm when it's in the 20's outside and you'll find ice buildup on the inside of the windows as well as frozen plumbing unless you focus on getting it prepped for cold winter weather.....

Good Luck, but I think you're a "brave soul" to try to live in a Hideout during the winter. It's going to be an experience you'll never forget, that's for sure !!!!!

Like you mentioned im younger and this is my first camper and experience with one. The water system is currently full of antifreeze, as I got one used. Solar was more of a "okay realisticly how viable is this" since I have no experience with Solar and I've gotten some mixed messages from others who live in theirs and claim they run their whole rv off a 100w single panel from harbor freight. Solar was just a nice idea more than something I was looking at right away, I just wanted to know a bit more.

You are completely right however, winter is indeed coming. Like I mentioned currently the system is full of antifreeze and we have about 27 campers and rvs on our street wirh neighborhoods who have living in them for years. I don't need to be moved in by any time this year, it's more my choice since finding affordable housing anywhere esle is unrealistic at the moment.

This is an ongoing project for sure and doesn't need to be done any time soon like I mentioned, but at some point it will need to be done and be livable. I've been looking into a skirt, I don't supose they make a specific model for a 39ft hideout? Or is that something that needs to be custom ordered. I have also seen others using bug blocks of the insulation foam boards around the side. Would that also possibly work?

I appreciate all the advice!

Mcslap13 · 09-06-2022, 06:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sourdough

I know there are solar fans but I'm not one. For power augmentation/charging batteries? Sure. Trying to power up a 50A trailer like a house? Not for me. I know folks that have added solar to homes, some like it some not so much. All have basic incoming power from the power company in case the solar isn't up to the job. Knew a fella in the mountains that built a very nice log home where there were no facilities, going to power it with solar and wind. Ended up he couldn't come up in the winter and sometimes, maybe he could in the summer. Had to truck in water. Tried to sell it and no one wants to pay for all that "stuff" and it be so unreliable. It's been sitting there for years now growing over with a for sale sign out on the property.

If it were me I'd get that 50A ran for the trailer and if it is sort of remote a 8-9k inverter generator and be done with it. You could put you a solar array on stands on the ground but 1) they take up quite a bit of space for that much, 2) the required batteries/conrtol equipment etc. will require a separate building and 3) the cost would be not only prohibitive but unrecoverable. I don't know where you are financially but when I was 22 I would have wanted to cover the basics and wait until I had enough cash in the bank that 15-20k was a drop in the bucket before I contemplated something that involved.

Yeah I can imagine an off grid cabin having issues like that, very unfortunate.

Solar isn't a need at all since I can be plugged in full time. And I need to be looking at getting it ready for winter. I've had a few people say the power their whole camper off solar no problems and only using a 100w panel from harbor freight. So I've had quite a few mixed messages.

If anything a mostly solar setup was more a "okay is this even possible and how realistic is it" so not too worried that it's a not a realistic goal.

I appreciate the advice!

**JRTJH** · 09-06-2022, 07:39 AM

As an "example of investment cost", there's a 1000 watt (panel size) with three 200 amp/hour lithium batteries for sale (used) on the forum. https://www.keystoneforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=52027

The link should give you some kind of "what'll it cost to get into solar" in a size that might get you self sufficient, without being totally independent of the shore power cable.... He says the cost is $10,500 with the batteries and he'll sell the system without batteries for $6,000.

I'd suspect that anyone who tells you they power their RV on a 100 watt Harbor Freight solar system will, in the same conversation, tell you how difficult it is to read by candle light after the sun goes down..... In other words, unless they "never turn on a light and don't watch TV or listen to the radio, they hardly can keep their batteries charged on bright sunny days, and "it ain't happenin' on cloudy/snowy days, even if they don't use the furnace with it's "solar powered 12 volt fan"..... Just do the simple math and you'll see that "amps produced by a 100 watt solar panel can't possibly equal amps used by the furnace fan"..... And that doesn't include lights, refrigerator, CO/LPG detectors and some television for entertainment.....

As for skirting, just head to any mobile home parts store and ask them, "Can you tell me what I need to do a cheap, effective skirting for a 40 foot travel trailer?".... If they're honest, they will give you the information you'd need to set up a BASIC (not a "all the bells and whistles") skirting parts list.

I'd warn you against using "hay bales" as a wind block under the trailer. It rots, molds, encourages bugs and mice/rats to share your house.

Rigid foam sheeting will work, but is degraded by the sun, so it's not a "permanent solution" but would work OK for a couple years. Unfortunately, the "years ago cost" of $3 to 4 dollars a sheet are long gone. At today's prices, it's probably closer to a permanent skirting solution than it is to a cheaper alternative. Yesterday, at Home Depot, a half inch thick 4x8 sheet of "pink foam board" was $30 plus tax, so with a 40' trailer 24" off the ground would need 7 or 8 sheets at a cost of around $250 plus the supplies to attach/secure it at the ground and at the bottom of the trailer.... So, skirting (if you do all the work) and the ground under the trailer is level, you're looking at around $300-350 for materials. Don't forget, if you "jump right on doing it" to get some advice on how to best provide access under the trailer, how to heat the tanks, how to keep the dump valves from freezing and how to vent the underside so you don't get condensation/rot from melting snow and "earth leach" of water up from the dirt under the trailer.....

As for the slides, some people use 1" foam sheeting on the slide ends and under the slide to help insulate and block the seals to help prevent drafts and heat loss.

Even though trailers are built a lot better (insulation wise) than they were years ago, when compared to a permanent structure with R-20 walls and R-40 roof insulation, the R-8 walls and R-12 roof/floor just don't hold heat in a Hideout like your Mom's house does. You'll need to do a lot of preparation to make it comfortable for the winter not only "comfortable to stay in" but also "comfortable to afford"..... Heating costs will be as much as double what your Mom's house costs to heat. The more you do to mitigate the heat loss, the cheaper it will be to keep it warm.

**sourdough** · 09-06-2022, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mcslap13

Yeah I can imagine an off grid cabin having issues like that, very unfortunate.

Solar isn't a need at all since I can be plugged in full time. And I need to be looking at getting it ready for winter. I've had a few people say the power their whole camper off solar no problems and only using a 100w panel from harbor freight. So I've had quite a few mixed messages.

If anything a mostly solar setup was more a "okay is this even possible and how realistic is it" so not too worried that it's a not a realistic goal.

I appreciate the advice!

Keep in mind when contemplating power for your RV that the power designations are somewhat misleading; a 30A trailer is just that, 30A = 30A x 120 vac = 3600 watts of power required. A 50A trailer can be misleading. It is NOT 50A, it is 50A x 2 since it has two 50A hot legs so it is 50A x 2 = 100A x 120vac = 12,000 watts.

peanut · 09-06-2022, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mcslap13

However, my prepper self is wanting to run as much as I can off solar. How realistic is this? Most information I find has the loud generators run by gas or assumes your in an RV and hooked up to cars inverter and charging a system as you drive.
I'm looking at something like a bluetti AC500. I would love to power ac, fridge, and say a computer or Xbox off a big battery bank and not sold rely on being plugged into the grid.

I personally have no idea how realistic that is. I am aware that it would be expensive, solar ans generator and batteries for over $7000 but is all that even too much to ask for?

To totally power an RV with solar is going to require lots of solar panel wattage and lots of battery amp hours. No way around it. How you approach this project may well depend on how you plan to use the trailer. You point out that your unit is a 'park' model. Actually Keystone calls it a 'comfort' model intended for extended stays - not long-term or permanent stays (like a 'park' model). If your intentions are to park it and never move it (like a 'park' model), you have more options and flexability. You could, for example, set as many panels as needed around your trailer, not on it (where space is limited); or use an outbuilding to store the batteries (but remember, the farther the batteries and solar controller are from the trailer, the larger the wiring needs to be. Actually that's true for the entire system - the farther the components are from each other, the larger the wiring needs to be).

So, biggest problem I see with your trailer is that it is a trailer. Trailers have less storage space and fewer options for placing all those panels and batteries you will need. And if you use LiFePo batteries (recommended), it would be best if they were in a heated compartment, which may be hard or even impossible to do in your trailer. A fifth wheel has more storage, often heated. Don't forget you would also need a large inverter with a transfer switch to power the AC stuff in the trailer.

Like any Keystone product, the Hideout comes standard with a SolarFlex 200 package. A very, very good start would be to get the upgraded SolarFlex 600i package. It will give you a huge boost in starting a system and would already have many of the upgraded components that you would need for a whole-trailer system.

Google is your friend. Search for things like 'whole rv solar' or 'off-grid home solar' and start reading. Here are a few to start.

https://www.imnotlostimrving.com/rv-...stem-overview/

https://battlebornbatteries.com/rv-solar-panels-guide/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ALCzdwMmsB4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBI4rrj0HIQo

This website talks about whole-house solar - which is, in effect, what you would be doing. Worth a read.
https://sunbridgesolar.com/how-many-...iAAEgIAr_D_BwE

Mcslap13 · 09-06-2022, 08:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

As an "example of investment cost", there's a 1000 watt (panel size) with three 200 amp/hour lithium batteries for sale (used) on the forum. https://www.keystoneforums.com/forum...ad.php?t=52027

The link should give you some kind of "what'll it cost to get into solar" in a size that might get you self sufficient, without being totally independent of the shore power cable.... He says the cost is $10,500 with the batteries and he'll sell the system without batteries for $6,000.

I'd suspect that anyone who tells you they power their RV on a 100 watt Harbor Freight solar system will, in the same conversation, tell you how difficult it is to read by candle light after the sun goes down..... In other words, unless they "never turn on a light and don't watch TV or listen to the radio, they hardly can keep their batteries charged on bright sunny days, and "it ain't happenin' on cloudy/snowy days, even if they don't use the furnace with it's "solar powered 12 volt fan"..... Just do the simple math and you'll see that "amps produced by a 100 watt solar panel can't possibly equal amps used by the furnace fan"..... And that doesn't include lights, refrigerator, CO/LPG detectors and some television for entertainment.....

As for skirting, just head to any mobile home parts store and ask them, "Can you tell me what I need to do a cheap, effective skirting for a 40 foot travel trailer?".... If they're honest, they will give you the information you'd need to set up a BASIC (not a "all the bells and whistles") skirting parts list.

I'd warn you against using "hay bales" as a wind block under the trailer. It rots, molds, encourages bugs and mice/rats to share your house.

Rigid foam sheeting will work, but is degraded by the sun, so it's not a "permanent solution" but would work OK for a couple years. Unfortunately, the "years ago cost" of $3 to 4 dollars a sheet are long gone. At today's prices, it's probably closer to a permanent skirting solution than it is to a cheaper alternative. Yesterday, at Home Depot, a half inch thick 4x8 sheet of "pink foam board" was $30 plus tax, so with a 40' trailer 24" off the ground would need 7 or 8 sheets at a cost of around $250 plus the supplies to attach/secure it at the ground and at the bottom of the trailer.... So, skirting (if you do all the work) and the ground under the trailer is level, you're looking at around $300-350 for materials. Don't forget, if you "jump right on doing it" to get some advice on how to best provide access under the trailer, how to heat the tanks, how to keep the dump valves from freezing and how to vent the underside so you don't get condensation/rot from melting snow and "earth leach" of water up from the dirt under the trailer.....

As for the slides, some people use 1" foam sheeting on the slide ends and under the slide to help insulate and block the seals to help prevent drafts and heat loss.

Even though trailers are built a lot better (insulation wise) than they were years ago, when compared to a permanent structure with R-20 walls and R-40 roof insulation, the R-8 walls and R-12 roof/floor just don't hold heat in a Hideout like your Mom's house does. You'll need to do a lot of preparation to make it comfortable for the winter not only "comfortable to stay in" but also "comfortable to afford"..... Heating costs will be as much as double what your Mom's house costs to heat. The more you do to mitigate the heat loss, the cheaper it will be to keep it warm.

Thank you again for all the tips, I greatly appreciate it. I know we have several neighbors who have adult kids living in campers on their property as well so I'll be heading over to ask them at some point too what they do for winter and where they buy their supplies.

I'll take a look at skirts asap and see about prices, I took a look at those insulation boards and they are definitely expensive. I've got about $10k to work with at the moment but I would like to try and not spend an acessive amount. I'll probably go ahead and order the relfectant insulation rolls and get them in the windows along with the "pillows" to put in the roof openings.

I've seen some people say they put a small electric heater under their camper and leave it on low to keep the underside warm. That seems to me like it might create more moisture possibly. Is that something that's recommended against doing?

Somewhat going back to solar I supose I could get a basic bluetti kit and charge that during the day and run an electric heater or blanket at night and just plug it in to charge in the morning.

In regards to the black tank, would a macerator and a freeze proof/heated hose possibly be able to work?

travelin texans · 09-06-2022, 08:41 AM

For now I'd head to your local LP distributor & have 100gallon LP tank set up with a contract to keep it filled. The 20lbers, if that's what you have, you'll be having filled every couple days.
As for solar, drive south out highway 95 from Boulder City Nevada & you'll see how apparently efficient solar is by the 1000s of acres of solar panels that produce about 10% of the power that Hoover Dam hydro generators do. I wish they'd spend that money to try some how to save Lake Mead & Lake Powell as they're spending on solar, the southwest needs the water worse than the little dab of power solar provides.
Personally I'd get skirted ASAP, get the power, water & sewer setup, get LP contract established so it's ready to move in when you are & then worry about saving the planet by spending copious amounts of $$$ a little later.

**JRTJH** · 09-06-2022, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mcslap13

Thank you again for all the tips, I greatly appreciate it. I know we have several neighbors who have adult kids living in campers on their property as well so I'll be heading over to ask them at some point too what they do for winter and where they buy their supplies.

I'll take a look at skirts asap and see about prices, I took a look at those insulation boards and they are definitely expensive. I've got about $10k to work with at the moment but I would like to try and not spend an acessive amount. I'll probably go ahead and order the relfectant insulation rolls and get them in the windows along with the "pillows" to put in the roof openings.

I've seen some people say they put a small electric heater under their camper and leave it on low to keep the underside warm. That seems to me like it might create more moisture possibly. Is that something that's recommended against doing?

Somewhat going back to solar I supose I could get a basic bluetti kit and charge that during the day and run an electric heater or blanket at night and just plug it in to charge in the morning.

In regards to the black tank, would a macerator and a freeze proof/heated hose possibly be able to work?

I would not put any electric heater under a trailer. There's too much risk of fire involved. A "well placed 60 watt drop light" (under or near the holding tanks) should be sufficient to keep the tanks from freezing. Depending on the placement of the dump valves, as long as the tank is not frozen and the valves are not frozen, the holding tank issue is resolved (as far as weather is concerned).

Now, your comments about solar: You're not going to be able to run an electric heater or an electric blanket on a battery system (unless you get into a "big bucks battery system") And, if you're also considering a "freeze proof/heated hose" for the macerator, that pretty much negates being able to run it without shore power as well.....

When you consider all the energy needs, under trailer heat, interior heat, macerator line heat and fresh water line heat, you are going to be "out of the capacity of any "affordable solar system" on bright, sunny days" and in the realm of "impossible to achieve without backup grid power" on snowy or cloudy days.

If last winter's experiences in Texas are an example, I wouldn't invest a lot of money on any solar system for an "affordable starter home". The initial investments as well as the need for backup power in case of bad weather/cloudy days makes solar a "nice to have but too expensive to consider as a primary source of power" especially for the first year, until you even know if you can stay in the trailer during the coldest months of the year....

I'd keep spending money on solar energy as a backup plan until you know the trailer is going to be comfortable and affordable through an entire year of living in it. Then, after that "real life eperience" you'll know better what you need to make the decisions on whether it's a good investment that you can afford or whether it's too expensive for the return on the investment....

It would be "tragic" to spend a lot of money on solar power and to find out in January that you can't keep the birds warm and aren't able to stay in the trailer because of comfort and frozen lines, only to move into Mom's house for the rest of the winter until you can use the solar system "in the spring" when things warm up enough to move back into the trailer.....

I'd get a "year's worth of experience" before spending any money on a solar system that's a perk, not a necessity".... YMMV

**flybouy** · 09-06-2022, 09:28 AM

From what I'm reading here's my advice .... sell the camper and buy a used mobile home. Your 40' camper is a poor choice for a "permanent " home in that area. A mobile home will be better insulated and connect directly to water and sewer with little fanfare.

If finances are an issue now then marriage or co-habitation typically doesn't improve that situation for several years.
Anyone telling you they operate on a 100 watt HF battery charger is flat out lying. 100 watts divided by 12 vdc isn8.3 amps. That 8.3 amps is an unattainable number in reality because that 100 watts is a MAXIMUM POTENTIAL. What does that mean? It means the the panel has the potential, when new, in direct non-abscured sunlight ( sun striking the panel @ 90° ) for whatever time that happens. With the panel being in a fixed position it won't be tracking the sun. Dust/dirt on the panel will degrade the efficiency. Obviously snow, ice, frost, even heavy dew will obscure it. Then there's the voltage loss inherent in the charge controller and the wire to the battery.

If your lucky, you might get 4 or 5 hrs at 4 amps of charge. That's a 16 to 20 Amp hrs charge per day. That won't keep the furnace running. The trailer converter is much more efficient at keeping the batter charged if 120 vac is available. If you want to see the "truth about renewable energy" look at California's decision 17 yes or so ago to mandate a large percentage of their power grid be changed over to wind and solar. Not the grid can't keep up with the demand.

I wish you much luck in your adventure, as previously stated you are embarking on an arduous journey. I'm not trying to be a "Debbie downer" but only being realistic.

TimC · 09-11-2022, 06:36 PM

Although I’m a huge fan of solar and have installed a fairly sizable (and expensive) system on my rig (~15 kWh of lithium, 1050 watts of solar on the roof, and a 400 watt ground array) I 100% agree that solar/batteries are not the best option here.

My system would get me through the winter, but even if parked where there’s no shade I highly doubt it’d get me by without supplemental power (like a generator). One thing I didn’t see mentioned here is how much less power you generate in the winter in the north (I live in WI) and how much more power you need. It takes quite a bit of power to keep the rig warm when it’s below freezing, and to keep pipes and tanks from freezing. Then you factor in you get about 30% of the solar (in my experience) that’d you’d get in the summer, and that means you’ll be very short unless you put in a MASSIVE system.

KJLarson · 09-15-2022, 10:38 AM

Delayed Reply. If you stay in RV Parks than solar is a waste of money. If you primarily boondock like we do it is great. We have a 990-watt roof mounted system (3 330-watt panels). We also have 3 100ah lithium batteries. We can run everything including the frig and A/C off the batteries provided we have at least 50% sun. We do run the frig off propane rather than the 120v AC. Hope this helps.

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