Slide uncertainties

JBM3M · 01-22-2022, 08:36 AM

2018 28SGS Cougar (two rear slides). They seem to tip out a whole bunch at the top, to the point it bends the fascia on the bottom edge of the slide. One, in fact when I start to retract the outer end tips down so far I have to hand assist to bring it level again. Both sides are this way, one much worse than the other.

We bought this as is, used. No clue if this is correct or not. Cannot get it in to repair shop until May for first openings. Too long. I am mechanically inclined, weather crappy now for working on it outdoors, but need education. I think but am not sure they are electric.

Is there an adjustment that keeps them from falling down from level? Is something broken that I need to check for?

Thanks

**chuckster57** · 01-22-2022, 08:44 AM

Welcome to the forum

If they are electric and the mechanism looks like a square tube with teeth on the bottom, you can adjust the "height". extend the slide about 1/2 way, then look for the long bolts sticking down where the tubes attach to the slide. They should be 3/4".

As long as the bolt is touching the bracket, loosen the lock nut, and turn the bolt in 2 turns, tighten and do the same to the other one. then extend fully and try retracting. If it hangs up then do the same thing again.

When your done the FULL vertical Facias should seal against the wall at BOTH end of travel.

On edit: you will have to loosen the 2 bolts that hold the plates in place, also 3/4"

roadglide · 01-22-2022, 08:44 AM

If it closes tight I would not mess with it . I suppose it’s a cable slide you can take a ruler and measure all four corners with the slide out .

**sourdough** · 01-22-2022, 08:50 AM

Here is a link to your trailer;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FS6o_j2YQhI

Note the positions of the slides in this video (or others) vs how your slides look. A picture(s) would help a lot to understand the issues you have.

**JRTJH** · 01-22-2022, 08:53 AM

MUCH more information is needed to even start to answer your questions.

First, in 2018, Keystone built the Cougar 28SGS in both Western and Eastern models and in two "Cougar Brands". It was produced in Cougar Half Ton brand and in the Cougar X-Lite brand.

So, there's potentially "4 different trailer models" that you could own.

If you'd post YOUR specific trailer model, it would help us "zero in on what you have"....

And no, they weren't all built the same with a different decal or name.....

In other words, a "Cougar 28SGS" is not always like every other "Cougar 28SGS".....

**sourdough** · 01-22-2022, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

MUCH more information is needed to even start to answer your questions.

First, in 2018, Keystone built the Cougar 28SGS in both Western and Eastern models and in two "Cougar Brands". It was produced in Cougar Half Ton brand and in the Cougar X-Lite brand.

So, there's potentially "4 different trailer models" that you could own.

If you'd post YOUR specific trailer model, it would help us "zero in on what you have"....

And no, they weren't all built the same with a different decal or name.....

In other words, a "Cougar 28SGS" is not always like every other "Cougar 28SGS".....

To expound a little on your points; when I was comparing Cougars in the E comparing to those in the W (about the same year as the OP's) one notable difference was the type of slide mechanisms; the E models had ram, the W had cable. The link I posted above is from a dealership in the E and the OP is from the W. It's possible the slide operation of the OP's trailer could be different from the video.

**chuckster57** · 01-22-2022, 09:04 AM

Ok fella's. He bought it used as is, so until he says what the slides are, it may have come from the E and sold in the W or vise versa. I figured it wasnt cable as he didnt say anything about seeing cables, but said electric.

**JRTJH** · 01-22-2022, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Ok fella's. He bought it used as is, so until he says what the slides are, it may have come from the E and sold in the W or vise versa. I figured it wasnt cable as he didnt say anything about seeing cables, but said electric.

That's exactly my point. Right now, we have no idea which trailer model he has and no idea whether it's an Eastern or a Western model. Because of that, he "could have" RAM slides or he could have CABLE slides... So, any recommendation about how to "fix the problem" depends on knowing which trailer and what kind of slide systems are in it......

No need to spend hours explaining one system for the OP to post, "But mine isn't like that".....

JBM3M · 01-22-2022, 03:51 PM

5th wheel, 1/2 ton. No clue if E or W, was purchased in my area, I kinda think it was a repo. I think I saw the rack rails, but not home and need to get a slide moved out. I do not remember cables. Be back home Monday. Will serial number help?

**sourdough** · 01-22-2022, 04:19 PM

Serial number won't help us. The type of slide is apparent when you look at them; cable slides will have a cable on the top and bottom of each end of the slide, a ram will be apparent under the slide if that is the mechanism.

Being in the W I would think it would be cable but that really means nothing. You need to ascertain the type of slide as the way they operate is very different.

You think it might be a repo? Did you get it at a "great" price? I'm wondering if it was abused or damaged in some way? I've seen what some folks have done to homes they couldn't pay for then repossessed and it was unbelievable....

JBM3M · 01-22-2022, 04:56 PM

Okie Dokie, will chill until I can look Monday

**JRTJH** · 01-22-2022, 05:00 PM

When you get home, take a look at the end walls of your slides. If you see a steel wound cable about 3/16" top and bottom like the first photo, you have "cable driven slides".

If you do not see cables on the ends, you possibly could see two "gear tracks that sort of look like worm tracks". If you see this, which is highly unlikely, you have a Schwintek slide drive system. This type is shown in the second photo.

If you see neither of the above, look under the slide and you'll see two RAMs with gear teeth on the bottom, one near each end of the slide. They will exit the trailer belly through the main frame I-beams. If you have this type, your trailer has "RAM driven slides". This type is shown in the third photo.

Let us know for sure which type you have and we can go from there.

JBM3M · 01-24-2022, 02:09 PM

Okay, it is the Ram driven slides, they go through the frame.

They close tight, seal, the open tight and seal, it is the point from when the slide is starting to move, either in or out and the top dips down quite a bit and one slide when bringing in I have to assist by pulling on the top of the slide from the inside to get it close to even again, then continue with the switch. Other than than adjustment and such seems okay. Virtually no lube on the rails or rack and pinion.\

Edit: The trailer is leveled and solid before attempting this.

**JRTJH** · 01-24-2022, 02:39 PM

Before you start adjusting ram height, stop cans and cross bar timing, I'd recommend you do a thorough inspection of the components.

First, there are two nylon rollers on each gear pack. They can become worn, they can crack and cause the gears on the rams to "skip a tooth" and create one side lifting before the other.

Then, there's a "nylon pressure disc" installed at the top of each ram, on the part of the assembly that is welded to the frame rail. The purpose of that "pressure disc" is to push down on the ram, to keep the teeth on the gear strip in good contact with the roller gears that drive the crossbar. If the "pressure disc" is worn, it will allow the ram to lift off the roller gear and create the same type of "skip a tooth" condition as a broken roller.

As slides get heavier, the wear on plastic parts becomes greater and creates the potential for slide malfunctions to begin to happen sooner in ownership.

Here's a photo of the slide roller assembly and a depiction of the "pressure disc". The diagram shows a "WHITE WEAR TAB" and a "BLACK WEAR TAB". The "pressure disc" is the WHITE WEAR TAB, and is what keeps the ram gear strip from lifting off the roller gear and prevents it from skipping a tooth.

Here is a link to the entire slide mechanism diagram: https://lci-support-doc.s3.amazonaws...h_actuator.pdf

I'd start by making sure all the parts are serviceable BEFORE you start doing adjustments to anything.

To me, it's sort of like "adjusting the timing on an engine with an old distributor before you even check the points to see if they're set right....

JBM3M · 01-24-2022, 02:47 PM

Thanks for that link. Will look those over because it just seems something should keep that one slide in particular from tipping so much and the wear things sound like that could be what it is. Now to see them.

**JRTJH** · 01-24-2022, 03:08 PM

If one side of the slide is lifting before the other, it sounds like one of the rams has "jumped a gear tooth". The issue, at least for me, before retiming the two rams to work together, is determining why they got out of time to start with. It's "self defeating" to spend 2 or 3 hours taking the cross drive bar off, retiming and adjusting the slide to work correctly and the first time you extend it, the "loose ram" jumps a tooth and you're right back where you were before you started....

Hopefully you can identify the parts that are serviceable and, if there's anything broken or worn, replace it before spending all the time to "time the slide" and have it all go south again on you....

JBM3M · 01-24-2022, 03:10 PM

Well it isn't side to side, it is the up and down and seems equal across the entire slide.

**JRTJH** · 01-24-2022, 03:27 PM

There is a plastic wear bar under the slide, about 6" in from the trailer sidewall. The slide is bolted to the rams at the slide sidewall and rests on that wear bar. As the slide moves in and out, it "lifts as the slide floor angle changes based on the ram attachment points. If one ram attachment point is closer to the wear bar than the other, the closer side will lift up sooner than the other side. Then, as both rams "bind at the fully closed position" the slide sidewalls will be in complete contact with the trailer sidewall, making it appear that the slide "is moving in/out properly"... In reality, one side of the slide is "torqued tighter" than the other, making it "look right, although it's timed wrong"...

On the slide, side to side, top to bottom can easily "look right at the ends of travel" and at the same time, the drive rams are not properly adjusted, causing the slide box to "force fit the trailer opening" rather than "move in and out properly"...

Don't confuse the fact that the slide floor "lifts up so it can't be a side to side problem".....

JBM3M · 01-24-2022, 03:32 PM

Okay will research how to check that timing. Appreciate all this. My mobility is limited so need good daylight, now working on tomorrow. Meanwhile the internet is my friend.

JBM3M · 01-25-2022, 01:34 PM

I think this is beyond me. I cannot see any of the plastic things but due to Arctic package the entire bottom between frame rails is covered. Cant see in the rail even with flashlight.

Playing more with this, the main slide works fine, the kitchen slid binds on return until it gets far enough in to 'tip' and unbind. It needs manual help to do that. What is good is that the slides seal well when closed or open, and here, that is important in the winter.

So looking into when I can get this somewhere to someone who knows, and I have no clue who knows their stuff.

ANY recommendations either way in the Vancouver Washington service area. Kind of looking at mobile outfits so it doesn't have to be parked in some yard without security.

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