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05-13-2020, 05:44 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Greenville
Posts: 55
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Clear RTV/Caulk Question
Hi all. I need to re-caulk some of the seams around our 2017 Cougar 33MLS and was wondering if regular clear caulk from Lowe's would work or if there was a better product made for RVs or heavy outdoor use.
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05-13-2020, 05:59 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,841
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Don't use anything that has silicone in it. Silicone, when it cures, is nearly impossible to get off of your trailer and nothing will stick to cured silicone, not even "new silicone" so if you ever need to reseal that area, nothing will stick to what you "smeared on in 2020"...
Go to an RV parts store and get some ProFlex or Sikaflex for the walls, siding, windows, door frames. Use DICOR or Alpha Systems self leveling sealant for the TPO roof membrane and all the structures on the roof.
Here's a short video on "don't use silicone"
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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05-13-2020, 06:44 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,235
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I would use pro seal before I used SikaFlex. Pro seal can be removed much easier if needed.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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05-13-2020, 07:25 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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IMHO there's NO WHERE on a RV for 'silicone" caulk!
Silicone spray is recommended as lubrication.
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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05-18-2020, 06:12 AM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: Weare,
Posts: 30
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I asked this same question when we took delivery of our trailer, and the tech Emphatically said to use silicone caulk because it flexes, and adheres better than the "made for rv products" that are out there. I 100 percent agree with him. I used geocell proflex on our last camper and it did not hold up well. This contradicts other opinions on this thread, but to each his own. Just be sure to prep the area before application. No sealant will adhere to a dirty surface. I use silicone for other applications and have no trouble when it comes time to reapply. Good luck!
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05-18-2020, 06:54 AM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tdesrosiers
I asked this same question when we took delivery of our trailer, and the tech Emphatically said to use silicone caulk because it flexes, and adheres better than the "made for rv products" that are out there. I 100 percent agree with him. I used geocell proflex on our last camper and it did not hold up well. This contradicts other opinions on this thread, but to each his own. Just be sure to prep the area before application. No sealant will adhere to a dirty surface. I use silicone for other applications and have no trouble when it comes time to reapply. Good luck!
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When comes time to reapply silicone will not adhere to silicone so all the old needs to be removed, which is next to impossible to do.
With the Geocell & good prep you can apply over the old.
Good luck with silicone!
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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05-18-2020, 07:21 AM
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#8
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,714
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tdesrosiers
I asked this same question when we took delivery of our trailer, and the tech Emphatically said to use silicone caulk because it flexes, and adheres better than the "made for rv products" that are out there. I 100 percent agree with him. I used geocell proflex on our last camper and it did not hold up well. This contradicts other opinions on this thread, but to each his own. Just be sure to prep the area before application. No sealant will adhere to a dirty surface. I use silicone for other applications and have no trouble when it comes time to reapply. Good luck!
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Read a post recently where the dealer told someone to pour bleach down the drain because they had a clog. So take your advice where you feel confident.
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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05-18-2020, 07:38 AM
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#9
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Site Team
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: W. Texas
Posts: 17,600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travelin texans
When comes time to reapply silicone will not adhere to silicone so all the old needs to be removed, which is next to impossible to do.
With the Geocell & good prep you can apply over the old.
Good luck with silicone!
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Learned that years ago on our mountain home. I wanted to replace an entry window because it cracked. The previous owner was either in love with silicone or had stock in one of the companies because it was SLATHERED all over the window edges and the wood trim. I tried, in vain I might add, for a LONG time using lots of different things (along with some "motivational" language) to remove that stuff and make it look decent. Finally, what patience I had ran out and I tore the entire wall and window out and replaced it all so it would look good and not have silicone residue, wiggly worms etc. sticking all over the place. And yes, you cannot put anything on it hoping to stick....silicone or paint.
__________________
Danny and Susan, wife of 56 years
2019 Ram 3500 Laramie CC SWB SB 6.4 4x4 4.10
2020 Montana High Country 331RL
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05-18-2020, 08:36 AM
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#10
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,714
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IMHO there are "specific" products for somethings just like there are "specific" tools for each size bolt, screw etc. I've never been a fan of using non specific unless there's no alternative, i.e. something less than ideal to get me back on the road.
So if I'm planning on a repair I'm going to choose the right product or tool. I'm not going to tighten a #3 Phillips screw with a #2 bit, and I'm not going to put silicone on anything unless it belongs there.
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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05-18-2020, 10:58 AM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: SC
Posts: 131
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Once an old sealant has been removed, what would you use to thoroughly clean the area involved before adding the new sealant?
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05-18-2020, 01:14 PM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2017
Location: Picacho, Az
Posts: 6,809
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ljp
Once an old sealant has been removed, what would you use to thoroughly clean the area involved before adding the new sealant?
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I've used rubbing alcohol & denatured alcohol, both with good results.
__________________
Full-timed 10+ years
Sold '13 Redwood FB
Traded '13 GMC Denali DRW D/A
Replacement undetermined
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05-18-2020, 04:06 PM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: USA and Canada
Posts: 870
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I hear this over and over. You know that my Fusion has a lifetime silicon roof, correct? There are primers made specifically for silicon.
__________________
2010 FZ 405
2011 F350 6.7 Dually w/Banks Power making 510 hp and 1065 ft/lbs torque
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05-18-2020, 04:58 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2019
Location: NE Ohio
Posts: 503
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My Cougar came new with silicone caulk all over it. I hate the stuff.
I changed a failed marker light and the majority of my time was spent trying to remove the silicone. I used mineral spirits and a razor blade.
__________________
2018 Cougar 26RBS
2016 Chevrolet 3500DRW D/A
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05-20-2020, 03:33 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Prince George
Posts: 184
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customer1
My Cougar came new with silicone caulk all over it. I hate the stuff.
I changed a failed marker light and the majority of my time was spent trying to remove the silicone. I used mineral spirits and a razor blade.
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Yeah, same here on our fuzion. Not so easy to spot touch up areas where the sealant has separated.
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05-24-2020, 07:49 AM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Qualicum Beach
Posts: 555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57
I would use pro seal before I used SikaFlex. Pro seal can be removed much easier if needed.
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What is the recommended maintenance schedule and procedure for all the windows, doors, hatches, etc sealing.
Annual? longer, shorter and what am I looking for.
Procedure is to pull old off, cut with knife, hot air gun, chemical, what???
Thanks
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05-24-2020, 07:52 AM
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#17
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,235
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depending on your weather conditions I would inspect at least annually. More often if the trailer sees a lot of direct sun. We use plastic tools to remove, used to use denatured alcohol to clean but cant get it in CA anymore. then reseal. We have a supplier that delivers "solvent X" and I don't know whats in it.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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05-24-2020, 08:03 AM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Central FL
Posts: 1,083
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Customer1
My Cougar came new with silicone caulk all over it. I hate the stuff.
I changed a failed marker light and the majority of my time was spent trying to remove the silicone. I used mineral spirits and a razor blade.
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I was about to say, and now I don’t, you’ve already said it. Silicone all over the passport, lights trim, etc.
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05-28-2020, 09:12 AM
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#19
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Louisville
Posts: 67
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Use a urethane caulk. In the construction industry, control joints on builds, urethane caulks are used. You never see silicone on the exterior. A 2 part urethane is better but you will have to mix up a 2.5 gallon pail. Get a one part in a tube. HD sells a clear urethane, can not think of the name.
Cut a small hole on the end of the spout. Depending how big of gap you need to fill will be how fast you move. Get some dish washing soap and water in a cup. Dip your finger in the soap and smooth the joint out. The window guys use the Arsenal window clean when they caulk. Just spray the caulk then wipe. I like the soap in the cup. Sometimes will take a small brush and soap the caulk joint then wipe.
__________________
I am a analog man living in a digital world.
Joe Walsh
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05-29-2020, 05:54 AM
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#20
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2020
Location: walnut creek
Posts: 11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve's 70-5
Use a urethane caulk. In the construction industry, control joints on builds, urethane caulks are used. You never see silicone on the exterior. A 2 part urethane is better but you will have to mix up a 2.5 gallon pail. Get a one part in a tube. HD sells a clear urethane, can not think of the name.
Cut a small hole on the end of the spout. Depending how big of gap you need to fill will be how fast you move. Get some dish washing soap and water in a cup. Dip your finger in the soap and smooth the joint out. The window guys use the Arsenal window clean when they caulk. Just spray the caulk then wipe. I like the soap in the cup. Sometimes will take a small brush and soap the caulk joint then wipe.
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Sikaflex? Is that the caulk?
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