Rear wall popped out

[Dtrenks]

Looking for some suggestions.

2012 Keystone Cougar 21rbs

Keep my trailer stored indoors in a very large “tent like” structure over the winter. Went the other day to drop something off and do my normal walk around inspection. Noticed the rear “floating” wall had popped out at the top.
Everything inside is 100% normal zero signs of any water damage, zero signs of water damage looking down and feeling where it popped out. I’ve had zero major past issues with this trailer.
Could this be caused by heat/humidity from inside the storage? Is this water damage that I can’t see?

I have little experience in trailer repairs but like to think I’m handy and can tackle this. I haven’t attempted much yet but tried to just push it back it in to start and it isn’t that easy.

Must the top rail be removed for this to go back in to the track?
Can this wall be heated up and “molded” back into the track?

Suggestions on the best way to proceed?

Thanks for your time.

[JRTJH]

There are a number of threads on the forum detailing the "rear hanging wall" and how it "slips down slightly". Do a forum search and you'll find how other people have handled the same situation.

Basically, without writing another book, the rear wall is "free floating", secured only at the perimeter and where windows, lights or doors secure it "in the middle". So, gravity, vibration, temperature changes can all contribute to the rear wall "sagging at the top" and slipping out from under the top molding.

To repair it, if the FILON is not damaged, you'll need to remove all the edge molding, clean it up, check for any damage to the frame and the FILON sheet, then reinstall it, reseal it and then reinstall the trim, lights, windows and doors, resealing each of them as you put things back together.

If there is any damage to the frame or to the FILON, then that complicates the repair, but FILON is available and can be obtained from almost any RV parts store. Prices range from "take advantage of the public" to "reasonable" so shop around and don't buy from the first place you ask (assuming you need new FILON). Reuse what you have if it's still serviceable, that will prevent the problems of color match, decals and cutting new openings for vents, windows, doors and lights.

[Dtrenks]

Awesome thanks for the reply! Managed to find a thread you with the identical issue on the exact same model trailer. Thank you for the detailed response. Really appreciate the help.
Any reason i can’t Or shouldn’t put a couple screws into the trim piece holding them FILON into place at the top?

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by Dtrenks

Awesome thanks for the reply! Managed to find a thread you with the identical issue on the exact same model trailer. Thank you for the detailed response. Really appreciate the help.
Any reason i can’t Or shouldn’t put a couple screws into the trim piece holding them FILON into place at the top?

Not familiar with your particular RV, but I'd think if you pull the plastic trim cover off of that seam you'll find there are screws being covered.

[JRTJH]

There's no reason I can think of that would restrict you from adding screws to beef up the structure or to pull things back into alignment so you can continue the repair. Just remember that every hole you add is another location that can leak and destroy the structure under the roof. Sealing every hole and protecting the trailer from water intrusion is the desired result. Looking at your photo, there's a "big welcome sign" there for water intrusion, so pretty much, anything you do would be an improvement.

[Customer1]

Your picture doesn't look like the Keystone hanging wall. It appears to be a molded piece.

[Dtrenks]

Well surprisingly a simple fix. Thank you EVERYONE for your overwhelming help and advice. Here’s what i ended up doing and am extremely happy with the final outcome.

-Removed all caulk on back of trailer.
-Removed middle light and noticed a solid metal beam behind it, then removed other 2 top lights and there was. Horizontal beam behind each of them.
- with the help of a friend, pushed the wall back in and under the top trim.
- got a 1.5” metal self taping screw, pre drilled a small hole so the light could still be put on and screw hidden. Pushed wall up and in while put screw in.
- repeated same step for other 2 lights
- resealed entire back wall
-done

[Dtrenks]

[JRTJH]

Looks like an "easy fix" compared to what it could have been...

That said, keep a close eye on your repair, especially for spider cracks in the FILON, emanating from your screw attachment points. They'll first appear as a "crack in the gelcoat/clearcoat finish, widen and lengthen and head to "the point of most tension on the skin.

Hopefully you won't have that problem, but keep an eye out for it.....

[Dtrenks]

Ok, thanks for the heads up!

[Lee]

Good Job!!!!

[Mogal]

Any chance of a follow up on this repair?
Has anything cracked? The repair holding up well?

I kinda have the opposite problem. Mine has curled in and broke the seal.
I don't think it's bulging any more from the day I got it. (2+ years now) It's always been Poofy.
I'll be popping the lights off like shown here in this thread.
I haven't found any "Floating rear wall repair" that really outlines a viable repair to this?
Thanks!

[Dtrenks]

No issues since.

Originally Posted by Mogal

Any chance of a follow up on this repair?
Has anything cracked? The repair holding up well?

I kinda have the opposite problem. Mine has curled in and broke the seal.
I don't think it's bulging any more from the day I got it. (2+ years now) It's always been Poofy.
I'll be popping the lights off like shown here in this thread.
I haven't found any "Floating rear wall repair" that really outlines a viable repair to this?
Thanks!

[Mogal]

Great to hear, thank you!
And good news for me too. I was able to tap into that same beam as in yours.
So at least the panel is much more secure now.
It still moves, but keeps that upper lip more stationary.

My only problem now is I need to fill that gap from the upper trim to the panel itself. (Zoom in to see it better)
In places, it is gapped almost 3/8" but completely tucked under the trim piece.
Not sure if I just want to silicon the gap or is there is something better to use?