Round II - Rear panel issue on Cougar 21RBS

[TG10894]

I have done some additional work, and now have a better idea of what is happening with the back panel of my Cougar and how to fix it long term. My only problem now is doing a temporary repair that will not be too difficult to undo when I get home next month and can "do it right". For example, it would be easy to stretch a length of eternabond over it but tough to undo later. The back panel is sagging at the top, pulling away from the upper trim piece, and the FILON has started to buckle in exposing a gap in two place, each about 6 inches long and 1 " deep. I am digging someone's silicon sealant out of the crack that was not bonding well anyway. Looking at the bottom of the panel outside and inside walls, no evidence of water intrusion yet.

I have some non-flowing DICOR ordered to try to fix, but the gap is about 1" and I need some type of filler to put in the gap before sealing with DICOR.
Any ideas for temp fix short term? (I'm working off a ladder in an RV park with limited resources.)



Previously, I posted about "delamination" on my rear wall (springy to the touch) thinking I had a really bad leak. After more digging, I find that the wall design is different from the side walls in the the FILON fiberglass shell on the back is free floating and waves and bulges may occur normally. So apparently, my panel at the very top has come loose from the roof transition/trim piece that connects it.
Does anyone have any details on how this is suppose to be connected at the top? (ie, if i take the long trim piece on the back, what should I expect to see where the EPM roof and back vertical wall come together?)

Sorry for the repost of this similar issue, but I got enough info to ask better questions.

[JRTJH]

During assembly, the rear fiberglass insulation and wiring is installed on the aluminum frame. Then the FILON sheet is attached to the rear panel. It extends about 6-8" above the roof. Once it is installed and secured with the rear window frame, tail lights, roof ladder, etc (the only screws through the panel other than around the edges) the top is trimmed and the aluminum edge molding is attached. The screws that secure the aluminum edge molding "should" go through the FILON rear sheet to secure it in place, however on some trailers, the aluminum edge molding screws are on the top (roof edge) of the molding, so the "perimeter screws" do not go through the rear FILON sheet, rather they go through the roof and sidewalls, so in that type installation, the only screws that secure the rear panel in place are the window frame, tail lights and possibly the rear ladder.

I've seen a couple of rear panels that "slipped down" from under the top molding style with only screws on the roof surface. On those, the best way to repair it is to remove the top edge molding, re-secure the FILON to the top of the frame, then reinstall the edge molding.

If the trailer is still covered by warranty, make sure you notify the dealership before the warranty expires and have them do the repair. It's not particularly difficult or technically challenging, but it is labor intensive and not a lot of "fun for a weekend project"...

[TG10894]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

During assembly, the rear fiberglass insulation and wiring is installed on the aluminum frame. Then the FILON sheet is attached to the rear panel. It extends about 6-8" above the roof. Once it is installed and secured with the rear window frame, tail lights, roof ladder, etc (the only screws through the panel other than around the edges) the top is trimmed and the aluminum edge molding is attached. The screws that secure the aluminum edge molding "should" go through the FILON rear sheet to secure it in place, however on some trailers, the aluminum edge molding screws are on the top (roof edge) of the molding, so the "perimeter screws" do not go through the rear FILON sheet, rather they go through the roof and sidewalls, so in that type installation, the only screws that secure the rear panel in place are the window frame, tail lights and possibly the rear ladder.

I've seen a couple of rear panels that "slipped down" from under the top molding style with only screws on the roof surface. On those, the best way to repair it is to remove the top edge molding, re-secure the FILON to the top of the frame, then reinstall the edge molding.

If the trailer is still covered by warranty, make sure you notify the dealership before the warranty expires and have them do the repair. It's not particularly difficult or technically challenging, but it is labor intensive and not a lot of "fun for a weekend project"...

First, thanks so much for the detailed response. 2015 trailer so no warranty option. I will be doing this myself after getting home in April. My rear panel has no ladder or window, so the only connections between FILON and frame appear to be around the perimeter. The screws are as you described coming from the top of the trim down through the roof. The upper panel is defintely "slipping" down and I can see some of the screws from the top trim sticking down into "nothing".

Question - You state "...best way to repair it is to remove the top edge molding, re-secure the FILON to the top of the frame, then reinstall the edge molding." Can you elaborate on how to re-secure the FILON to the top of frame? Was it glued or taped or what ???

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by TG10894

...

Question - You state "...best way to repair it is to remove the top edge molding, re-secure the FILON to the top of the frame, then reinstall the edge molding." Can you elaborate on how to re-secure the FILON to the top of frame? Was it glued or taped or what ??
Attachment 25200

Often the rear FILON panel is glued on with an adhesive bead. Sometimes it's screwed to the aluminum frame and then those screws are covered by the aluminum perimeter molding. I suppose there are some that don't have any means of securing the FILON in place, but I haven't run across any with a "noting to hold it in place" type of construction.

You mention that there's no windows or ladder, but you should have tail lights with 4 screws each that "should" go through the FILON and into the frame. Usually there's "oil canning" (bulging above and below the tail lights) on those types of installations.

My "best guess" is that your FILON rear panel is glued in place if you can't see any screws through the FILON and into the top aluminum frame member.

[Dtrenks]

Hey I’m having this exact same issue with the exact same mode trailer. May I ask for some suggestions on what you learnt and how you ended up fixing it? Also how did it hold up? Thanks.

[GaryUT]

Originally Posted by TG10894

I have some non-flowing DICOR ordered to try to fix, but the gap is about 1" and I need some type of filler to put in the gap before sealing with DICOR.
Any ideas for temp fix short term? (I'm working off a ladder in an RV park with limited resources.)

Go to the local home improvement store and get some backer rod. It's a round foam strip made to seal gaps when caulking. Stuff the backer rod into the gap and put the dicor over it. That should get you home.


Gary

[TG10894]

After taking everything apart, I settled on the repair per the attached pics. It is not the sexiest repair, but it's not going to buckle anymore.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/NB9jH4ihnZyn9EUN7

[440justin]

Originally Posted by TG10894

After taking everything apart, I settled on the repair per the attached pics. It is not the sexiest repair, but it's not going to buckle anymore.



https://photos.app.goo.gl/NB9jH4ihnZyn9EUN7

TG10894, thanks for the details on the fix! I have a 2013 Passport Elite with the same issue. Been that way since some point in 2016. My fix temporary fix them was to add a small piece of metal and a bolt right until the middle aluminum to keep it form sliding any more. The center clearance light fits over this (no bulb installed). Yes I know the center clearance light is required, but outside the end of the season in the fall I almost never drive in the dark.

I have been looking at this again as I need to make a better fix. I like your approach. I was also thinking about using some 3M VHB panel bond between the fiberglass and the aluminum at the top. I might just use your approach!

[TG10894]

440Justin - Using some glue would be good, but you might need to do it in addition to an external support. I could not come up with a way to apply pressure against the back panel to hold it in place long enough to allow an adhesive to setup. Mine was so buckled it was difficult to push it back down. Yours looks to be in much better shape than mine was when I started so it might work fine for you. I will say the more challenging issue was getting lined up from the outside with the support to hit the aluminum frame when I pre-drilled the holes. Since the top is a curve, its more complicated than just measuring down from the top. Not impossible, but takes some patience. Just holler if there is anything else you need to know. Wish I had taken more internal wall pics, but I just couldn't get in there with the camera. Good luck!

[TG10894]

One more slight detail - The under door seal that I used only had about 3 screw holes pre-drilled. I added two more before using it to give it more support.

[wiredgeorge]

Thanks for sharing a practical fix for a problem that more than one owner seems to have. Most folks never follow up! Kudos...