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Old 05-28-2017, 12:15 PM   #41
kjohn
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Thanks for posting these stories! Shows that we can have a sense of humor. I haven't had any poonamies - yet.

The ones about leaving the black valve open and putting the cap on are haunting.
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Old 06-07-2017, 02:30 PM   #42
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Was at a campsite about 5 spaces from the dump station wheh a boat pulls up .He throws down about 10 blue fish on the cement slab where the sewer hose goes in and proceeds to filet them.finished his filet job put them in cooler and back to his site.saw this on several occasions and not the same person.
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Old 06-07-2017, 07:02 PM   #43
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Was at a campsite about 5 spaces from the dump station wheh a boat pulls up .He throws down about 10 blue fish on the cement slab where the sewer hose goes in and proceeds to filet them.finished his filet job put them in cooler and back to his site.saw this on several occasions and not the same person.
Bluefish, king mackerel ~~ could dip them down the pipe to improve the taste.
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Old 02-24-2018, 05:40 PM   #44
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I have so much to learn.
Hopefully not the hard way!
Poor qc at the manufacturer, poonamies, warranty problems.
What am I getting myself into?
(Note to self- I survived boating and that has plenty of stories too)


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Old 02-24-2018, 06:30 PM   #45
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There comes a time in all's lives where a good laugh is needed to reverse life's down moments. When I need that laugh, I go back and re-read this thread!!! Has tears coming down my cheeks each time. Boy does misery love company!

Anyway, I believe it was John that discussed replacing the failure prone anti-siphon valve with the brass version from Lowes. John or anyone, could someone post a link to that brass valve???

Many thanks for providing a holistic alternative to the prescribed anti-depressants.

Mike
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Old 02-24-2018, 07:02 PM   #46
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Anyway, I believe it was John that discussed replacing the failure prone anti-siphon valve with the brass version from Lowes. John or anyone, could someone post a link to that brass valve???
Sure, Here's the link: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Cash-Acme-B...ker/1000385647 Most Lowe's stores have them in the irrigation section of the plumbing department. This valve and two 1/2" plastic nipples and it'll connect right in place of the "self-destructing" one that was installed at the factory... Total cost, about $19 for the valve and $2 for the 2 nipples.
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Old 02-24-2018, 08:13 PM   #47
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Sure, Here's the link: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Cash-Acme-B...ker/1000385647 Most Lowe's stores have them in the irrigation section of the plumbing department. This valve and two 1/2" plastic nipples and it'll connect right in place of the "self-destructing" one that was installed at the factory... Total cost, about $19 for the valve and $2 for the 2 nipples.
Thanks John!!! Will be adding this to the list of mods before our trip next month!

Mod 1: PI EMS 50amp Hardwired w/monitor - Rec'd today!
Mod 2: Maxxis M8008s - Rec'd last week
Mod 3: TST 507 TPMS - Rec'd yesterday
Mod 4: Brass Anti-siphon valve - trip to Lowes tomorrow
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Old 02-24-2018, 11:15 PM   #48
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used sharkbite fittings on mine. Drives the price up, but sure is easy.
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Old 02-25-2018, 05:25 AM   #49
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Sharkbite fittings is an excellent way to PERMANTELY install a replacement brass anti-siphon valve, but eliminates the ability to remove it when winterizing. If you are not concerned with extremely cold temperatures during winter storage, that option is one of the best ways to install. On the Sharkbite site, the company recommends that once used, a fitting only be reused "for testing purposes" and that it not be used a second time in a plumbing system. So, it's more or less a "one time connection" and you can't remove the valve for winter storage.


On the other hand, if you live in an area where the temperature can fall below zero, removing the anti-siphon valve is one of the best ways to protect the system from freeze damage. In this situation, just installing two nipples and using the existing connectors on the PEX tubing retains the ability to remove the valve without damaging the fittings.

Either way will work to prevent leaks and will definitely improve the risk of a "self destructing plastic valve".....
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Old 02-25-2018, 05:52 AM   #50
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I haven't looked for mine yet, where might they be located? Are these the relief valves that are usually under the sink?
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Old 02-25-2018, 06:24 AM   #51
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Steve,

Typically the anti-siphon valve is located under the bathroom sink, way up high, next to the faucet connections. If you open the vanity door, you'll probably see four 1/2" PEX tubes. Two will be the hot/cold supply for the faucet and the other two will connect to the "black plastic booby trap" that's also called the anti-siphon valve.

Alternatively, it sometimes is installed behind the shower wall. Usually, when installed there, there's a "false panel" in a cabinet mounted against the front wall of the main cabin. Depending on floorplan, the shower wall installation can be difficult to find. In recent years, most have been installed in the vanity.
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Old 02-25-2018, 06:33 AM   #52
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Thanks John, I thought that was what everyone was talking about so I'll be looking into that when it warms up a bit here and see how hard it will be to replace.
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Old 02-25-2018, 07:17 AM   #53
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On my trailer it's a "2 minute job" One minute to bend down and unscrew the two fittings and one minute to wipe up the puddle on the shelf where it drips when I'm removing it. Installation is a little longer, I take a "third minute" to wrap some Teflon tape around the nipple threads on each end.... "easy peasy"....
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Old 02-25-2018, 08:53 AM   #54
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Alternatively, it sometimes is installed behind the shower wall. Usually, when installed there, there's a "false panel" in a cabinet mounted against the front wall of the main cabin. Depending on floorplan, the shower wall installation can be difficult to find. In recent years, most have been installed in the vanity.
Hope like the dickens that yours is a conventional install. Ours is located behind the hot and cold handles in the small angled back shower wall. The only way to get to it is to remove the plastic hot and cold fixture from the wall of the shower, unscrew the hot and cold fittings, and then you can almost reach in the tiny hole to work on the anti-siphon valve. I have fairly small hands, and that was the worst place to work in. No tools fit, period. The one who had the brilliant idea to put it there, had managed to turn a quick, simple changeout into an hour-long fight. With many words said that should not be repeated in nice company, and my knuckles looking like I had been in a really bad fight.

And then, don’t forgot to recaulk around the fixture after you reinstall it (after finding out one of the four screws that holds it to the plastic wall is stripped and does nothing) or you would probably have a worse leak than the small, occasional drip your husband noticed coming down the water low point drains under the trailer...
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Old 02-25-2018, 09:02 AM   #55
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...if you live in an area where the temperature can fall below zero, removing the anti-siphon valve is one of the best ways to protect the system from freeze damage.
Help me understand...why is the anti-siphon valve susceptible to freezing?

Thanks,
Mike
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Old 02-25-2018, 09:06 AM   #56
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Hope like the dickens that yours is a conventional install. Ours is located behind the hot and cold handles in the small angled back shower wall. The only way to get to it is to remove the plastic hot and cold fixture from the wall of the shower, unscrew the hot and cold fittings, and then you can almost reach in the tiny hole to work on the anti-siphon valve. I have fairly small hands, and that was the worst place to work in. No tools fit, period. The one who had the brilliant idea to put it there, had managed to turn a quick, simple changeout into an hour-long fight. With many words said that should not be repeated in nice company, and my knuckles looking like I had been in a really bad fight.

And then, don’t forgot to recaulk around the fixture after you reinstall it (after finding out one of the four screws that holds it to the plastic wall is stripped and does nothing) or you would probably have a worse leak than the small, occasional drip your husband noticed coming down the water low point drains under the trailer...
Yup. Just got done getting 2 hrs labor authorized by extended warranty to replace one in a Grand Designs 303. It too was in the shower wall, but low enough that I couldnt reach it. Had to pull the furnace out to access 2 zip ties to release the hoses after cutting them in the basrment
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Old 02-25-2018, 09:57 AM   #57
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Help me understand...why is the anti-siphon valve susceptible to freezing?

Thanks,
Mike
The water supply that flows water from the outside connector to the anti-siphon valve has a one way valve at the connector. So, when you use it, water fills the PEX tubing from the connector to the anti-siphon valve, flows through the valve and down the "other side PEX tube" and into the black tank. When you disconnect the hose from the side of the trailer, that one way valve won't allow the system to drain, so it remains full of water and is put into storage, is subject to freezing. It's difficult to get all the water out of the system. Sort of like placing a straw in a glass of water, putting your finger on the end of the straw and pulling it out of the glass. The straw remains full of water. Yes, you can blow it out with compressed air, push anti-freeze into the lines and hope it's protected, but, it's still that "easily damaged plastic thing that leaks when it cracks and in extremely cold weather the plastic one won't survive if there's just a "smidgen of water to freeze". So, I remove mine, shake it out to make sure it's empty and lay it on the shelf under the vanity until next spring....

Note to self: I really REALLY need to get that brass anti-siphon valve I keep walking past in Lowe's (just like yesterday)......
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Old 02-25-2018, 10:40 AM   #58
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The water supply that flows water from the outside connector to the anti-siphon valve has a one way valve at the connector. So, when you use it, water fills the PEX tubing from the connector to the anti-siphon valve, flows through the valve and down the "other side PEX tube" and into the black tank. When you disconnect the hose from the side of the trailer, that one way valve won't allow the system to drain, so it remains full of water and is put into storage, is subject to freezing. It's difficult to get all the water out of the system. Sort of like placing a straw in a glass of water, putting your finger on the end of the straw and pulling it out of the glass. The straw remains full of water. Yes, you can blow it out with compressed air, push anti-freeze into the lines and hope it's protected, but, it's still that "easily damaged plastic thing that leaks when it cracks and in extremely cold weather the plastic one won't survive if there's just a "smidgen of water to freeze". So, I remove mine, shake it out to make sure it's empty and lay it on the shelf under the vanity until next spring....

Note to self: I really REALLY need to get that brass anti-siphon valve I keep walking past in Lowe's (just like yesterday)......
Gotcha...excellent explanation! FYI...I do run the pink stuff through the black flush line when winterizing.

Does replacing with the brass valve reduce or eliminate the 'susceptibility' to freeze damage? Is it prudent to still remove the brass valve when winterizing??? Or is that overkill???
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Old 02-25-2018, 03:01 PM   #59
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I suppose (my guess) that it would probably be OK to leave the anti-siphon valve in place if you pump antifreeze into the system and are positive that you've displaced all the water in the lines and in the valve. For me, I don't want to risk any water remaining in the valve and in the spray head (inside the tank and a MESS to replace), so I prefer to open the line, let it drain completely and leave the valve off until spring.... I'm probably "overdoing it" and far more cautious than actually needed, but once you've dug in the bowels of an RV to replace something that you could remove in 2 minutes, well the investment in time makes sense to me.....

What's that old saying: Never enough time to do it right, but always enough time to repair it or do it again, when it breaks..... I can see my Dad smiling having heard me just say that LOL
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Old 02-25-2018, 06:30 PM   #60
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Yup. Just got done getting 2 hrs labor authorized by extended warranty to replace one in a Grand Designs 303. It too was in the shower wall, but low enough that I couldnt reach it. Had to pull the furnace out to access 2 zip ties to release the hoses after cutting them in the basrment
Makes me ask “why, why do they hate us so?” (during manufacturing of our trailers). I guess I was lucky then, ours is only down about 4” so I could at least sort of reach it.
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