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Old 04-12-2022, 08:02 AM   #1
Weldon
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Outdoor outlet replacement

Our 15amp 125v outlet seems to have died. It's the black version of this one.
https://www.amazon.com/UNITED-STATES...341925541&th=1

Seems to be overly complicated, and I'm not a fan of how the wires are held into the outlet by being squeezed (instead of a pressure screw). Is there a reason (other than it costs more) that I can't just buy a shallow plastic box, a grounded 15a 125v GFCI, and then a waterproof cover?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-B...-UPC/100404058

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commerci...F1PC/300852190

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...-0KE/206000179
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Old 04-12-2022, 08:18 AM   #2
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I'm guessing if it's an outside plug it's already connected to a GFCI somewhere, that plug may be good it's tripped somewhere else.
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Old 04-12-2022, 08:24 AM   #3
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That's what i thought too Danny. We only have one true GFCI with a reset button, which is by the sink (in front of the bunks, beside the bathroom door). I went around with my drill charger and plugged it into every outlet in the TT. They all worked. I reset the inside outlet a couple of times just to test it.

So if the outside outlet is connected to the actual inside outlet with the reset button, I can just buy an el cheapo outlet for the outside?

This may help you all know what I'm referring to. When we first setup, I plugged in my outdoor rope lights. They flickered, and then went out. It tripped the inside GFCI. I reset it, checked every outlet and the outside was the only one that wouldn't work. 2 days later, I checked it again, and the outlet worked fine. We were outside eating dinner, and the rope lights went out. Nothing inside the TT went out, and the GFCI didn't need to be reset. I tried it anyway, but that outlet continued to not work.

Other than the outlet that isn't working, not sure what else could be the issue. Would appreciate any input.
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Old 04-12-2022, 09:39 AM   #4
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The flickering, plug it in and works for a bit, goes out etc. I'd pull the plug and see if the wiring isn't loose. I also suspect it is downstream from the bathroom gfi plug if the OE one outside is not a gfi (which I doubt). Just trip the plug in the bathroom and put a tester on the one outside to be sure.

With the assumption that it is connected to the bathroom just use the shallow box and a regular plug. Replace the plug with the same amperage as the OE.
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Old 04-12-2022, 10:12 AM   #5
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Outside outlet along with the fridge outlet should be GFCI protected. Was your fridge on AUTO?
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Old 04-12-2022, 10:25 AM   #6
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Weldon, do you have a multimeter and know how to operate it? Easiest thing is to kill the power, remove the outlet, restore power and check the wires. If no power the problem is upstream. If power is present then it's not making a good connection between the wires and the base or the base and the duplex receptical. Those friction fit fixtures are notorious for loosing connectivity.
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Old 04-12-2022, 10:41 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flybouy View Post
Weldon, do you have a multimeter and know how to operate it? Easiest thing is to kill the power, remove the outlet, restore power and check the wires. If no power the problem is upstream. If power is present then it's not making a good connection between the wires and the base or the base and the duplex receptical. Those friction fit fixtures are notorious for loosing connectivity.
Hey Marshall. I have a very cheap one from HF. I've used it less than half a dozen times. What settings do I need to switch for the multi?

https://www.harborfreight.com/electr...ter-63759.html

I've already removed the outlet. The wires are currently exposed and the TT battery removed (had it tested yesterday at Orielly's just to verify it was still good...it is). I can hook up the battery and then test to verify there is power going to the outlet. When I removed the outlet, one wire came out super easy...the other 2 had to be removed with force.
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Old 04-12-2022, 11:09 AM   #8
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That outlet is 110VAC not 12VDC, battery doesn’t matter. MAKE SURE you are UNPLUGGED from shore power
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Old 04-12-2022, 11:35 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chuckster57 View Post
Outside outlet along with the fridge outlet should be GFCI protected. Was your fridge on AUTO?
Just saw this. I'm not entirely sure about the fridge. When we setup, my wife pushes the button above the freezer. I believe she normally sets that to Auto. It worked the entire 4 days were we there. If the fridge GFCI tripped and it was set to Auto, would it switch to propane?
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Old 04-12-2022, 11:47 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldon View Post
Just saw this. I'm not entirely sure about the fridge. When we setup, my wife pushes the button above the freezer. I believe she normally sets that to Auto. It worked the entire 4 days were we there. If the fridge GFCI tripped and it was set to Auto, would it switch to propane?
If the fridge is set to auto, it will switch to LP if the control board doesn’t “see” AC voltage.
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Old 04-12-2022, 12:01 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldon View Post
Hey Marshall. I have a very cheap one from HF. I've used it less than half a dozen times. What settings do I need to switch for the multi?

https://www.harborfreight.com/electr...ter-63759.html

I've already removed the outlet. The wires are currently exposed and the TT battery removed (had it tested yesterday at Orielly's just to verify it was still good...it is). I can hook up the battery and then test to verify there is power going to the outlet. When I removed the outlet, one wire came out super easy...the other 2 had to be removed with force.
I suspect the wire that "came out easily" is your culprit. Turn the shore power off, check that it's off by setting the meter to AC VOLTS on a scale that's more than 120. Turn on the meter and it should read zero volts. Put one lead on the black wire and one on the white wire and if it reads zero then repeat by testing black and green. If zero voltage on the meter then it should be safe. Use a good pair on insulated needle nose pliers and reinsert the wires back in the base where they originally were.

Then put the outlet back on, restore power and see if it works.
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Old 04-12-2022, 02:40 PM   #12
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To answer your original question: yes, you can replace the outlet with a conventional outlet if you have room in the box. It sounds like you have a loose wire.
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Old 04-14-2022, 10:21 AM   #13
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Camper storage is about 25 mins away, so I can't just run outside quickly. I have to plan. However, I was able to go last night to the camper. I hooked the TT up to shore power so I could better test, used the multimeter, etc.

My findings:
- the outlet under our dining table also doesn't work. The outdoor outlet is on the immediate backside to the inside outlet.
- there is no power going to the outside outlet. i didn't have time to determine if there is power going TO the indoor outlet. I replaced the outside outlet since it's likely still fine.
- couldn't locate another GFCI outlet near the fridge. Every other visible outlet works except under the table, as mentioned above. Therefore I removed the vent on the outside, directly behind the fridge. See pic. The only power outlet for the fridge that i could see doesn't have a reset / test button. I unplugged the fridge and plugged back in, but nothing changed.
-fuse panel shows nothing tripped or burned. I reset everything anyway, but it still didn't help.

What should i test now? Obviously i need to remove the inside outlet and test the power that is coming into that outlet. If there IS power coming to it, replace the inside outlet. If there is not, then what?
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Old 04-14-2022, 11:18 AM   #14
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Fridge outlet won’t have a reset. Sounds like you lost power to all 3 outlets. I would start at the breaker panel, using a Multi meter set to AC voltage. Remove the front cover to expose the breakers.

You can now test each breaker to verify if AC voltage is coming out of them. Negative lead to the ground bar and positive lead to the black wire at the bottom of the breaker. If you have power at all the black wires then unplug and pull down on all the black wires to make sure they are inserted and tight.

After that you’ll need to locate the GFCI outlet. You need to test for voltage in at the LINE side and LOAD side (out).

GFCI outlets will NOT reset without power at the IN side.
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Old 04-14-2022, 01:11 PM   #15
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Weldon it sounds to me as if either there's another GFCI or it's not resetting. Take a pencil with an eraser, or take the barrel end of a Bic pen and push the red button in. You should hear it "snap" and the button stay in. Then, push in the black button. It should snap in and latch. If it feels springy then either there's no power or the GFCI id defective.
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Old 04-14-2022, 07:33 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldon View Post
Hey Marshall. I have a very cheap one from HF. I've used it less than half a dozen times.
For outlets, HF sells an inexpensive outlet tester [link]. Just plug it in, and the three lights tell you if the outlet is wired properly and operating properly. It also has a button you can push to test GFCI protection (if you have it, you'll pop the GFCI, and if you don't, no harm done). For the money, it's a lot easier to use than the multimeter if you just want to test outlets, and you don't need three hands to use it.
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Old 04-17-2022, 10:23 AM   #17
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I may have missed it but to state the obvious, is the trailer on shore power? And I agree that the flickering is likely that loose wire you removed from the outlet.
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Old 04-19-2022, 08:40 AM   #18
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Spent 3 hours in the camper and at the store before finally deciding to replace the GFCI and the 4 outlets connected to it. Part of that time was correctly labeling my fuse panel.

The GFCI red light shows when I hit Reset, so it's getting power. from the breaker. The first outlet connected to it had power, and so did the next. Only the outlet under the dining table, and the outdoor outlet had no power. I removed the under-the-table outlet from the wall. All 3 line wires popped out, and a piece of the outlet broke off. I thought I had found the issue. So i went to THD (after 15 yrs working for them, i'm obviously biased), bought supplies to replace the 2, and came back.

Just for giggles, i turned on the breaker again, used the outlet tester previously mentioned, and now outlet #1 and #2 from the GFCI no longer have power. Reset GFCI and checked breaker...same result. Might be a loose wire (i really, really dislike these outlets). Either way, going to replace all 5 so there is no doubt that the outlets work, and there are no loose wires. Hopefully next time I report-in, i'll have good news.

I can now say i'm very familiar with this specific isle in the store.
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