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Old 05-11-2015, 09:12 AM   #1
SkiSmuggs
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Another Solar Panel Install

I spent the weekend installing solar on the roof of my Cougar High Country. I assembled the kit piecemeal with a pair of Renogy 100w mono panels, a Solar30 PMW charge controller, #8 and #10 wiring with MC4 connectors, Renogy Z brackets, a tube of Dicor, etc.

I spent the first day wiring as nothing works without it. I chose to go down the gray tank vent pipe from the roof. I measured my wiring and found the #8 was going to be a couple of feet short so I used the #10. I first used my smallest hole saw (about 1 1/16") to cut a hole in the vent pipe from the basement for the wire to exit. I saved the plug to plug the hole later. I first tried running the wire from the roof and it hung up 6 or 7 feet down, so I ran a fish tape up from the basement and discovered the problem was two 90 degree joints that even the tape had issues negotiating. A hour and lots of short words later, I had the tape out the top, marked one cable end for pos/neg indentification, taped it to the fish and pulled it into the basement, leaving about a foot on the roof. I ran it along the basement ceiling, drilled a hole through the wall into the battery compartment where the Solar30 is mounted. The batteries are in a vented box that vents to the outside before anyone gets excited.


Both panels on the same side with connector ends facing each other.


The controller mounted in the battery area


Another angle on the panels. Wires will be tied and secured later. Note the Etna-bond patch over a snow shovel tear. Told the DW not to do that!
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Old 05-11-2015, 09:20 AM   #2
SkiSmuggs
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As did everyone else, I marked the panel footings with a pencil, then laid down a bed of Dicor. Imagine my surprise when the panels started sliding on the curved roof toward the edge. I quickly moved each panel back into place and drove a self tapping screw to keep them there. More Dicor went on the bolt heads.

With the controller connected to the battery bank with the #8 wire, I checked operation, then connected the panel wire to it PRIOR to connecting on the roof.

I used a pair of branch cables on the roof to merge two positive and two negative cables into the single pair. I checked the controller with just one panel and then connected the second panel.

My normal float voltage is 13.2 or so, and it quickly went to 13.7 because the controller defaults to a float of 13.8. This is adjustable and I plan to use 13.2 - 13.6 when on shore power, and change it to 14.2 -14.5 when dry camping. I am not happy with that single setting aspect of the controller, but it was only $30. A ViewStar 30A PWM programmable for float, bulk and equalize is $130.

As part of the project, I plan on an in-line 30A circuit breaker between the controller and battery, a switch to disengage the panels from the controller, and a pair of buss bars so my battery posts don't get cluttered.

My twin T105 Trojans give me 225AH so 200w of solar is adequate, but I can easily add a 3rd panel with a set of 3 connection branch cables.

My heartfelt thanks to everyone who has shared their solar installations on the forums. I wouldn't have attempted it without you.
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Old 05-11-2015, 01:33 PM   #3
Cfoxtrot
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Nice work on the install!!!

I never thought of bumping up the voltage when dry camping, I will have to do some research to see what an appropriated voltage would be for my 12v batteries.

When my batteries are in need of replacement I will be checking out some Trojans like yours!
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Old 05-11-2015, 03:39 PM   #4
WaltBennett
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I installed four of the same panels on our Monty last year and probably for the same reason you did - small enough to fit where you want them, and all you need is a PWM charge controller vs. MPPT (costs almost twice as much). Anyway, the only comment I'd make is that you might think about removing the vent cover near the forward panel. If it shades even a small part of that panel it will reduce it's output drastically. We had Max Aire covers that I removed just because of that, but we never use our vents but seldom anyway - got a Fantastic Fan in the kitchen area.
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Old 05-12-2015, 03:50 AM   #5
SkiSmuggs
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WaltBennett View Post
I installed four of the same panels on our Monty last year and probably for the same reason you did - small enough to fit where you want them, and all you need is a PWM charge controller vs. MPPT (costs almost twice as much). Anyway, the only comment I'd make is that you might think about removing the vent cover near the forward panel. If it shades even a small part of that panel it will reduce it's output drastically. We had Max Aire covers that I removed just because of that, but we never use our vents but seldom anyway - got a Fantastic Fan in the kitchen area.
Thanks for the suggestion. I will monitor that, but in placing the panel, I tried to not get it too close to the vent and the cover is low profile so the sun would have to be pretty low to shade the panel. Also, with parallel wiring, I believe the impact of shade on one panel is reduced.
I was initially disappointed in low (.3) amps from the panels until it was pointed out that I was also on shore power and the batteries were fully charged so that no more could go in them. I unplugged the shore power in the evening, went to work on a rainy day and checked when I got home. Still 13.7 and low panel amps, so I turned on every light in the RV, and when the charge got down to 13.0, I checked the panel amps and it was at 1.0 on an heavily overcast day and steady rain, so I think I will see 7 to 10 amps in strong sunlight at peak times. The lsc of each panel is around 5.8.
The suggestion to change the charging voltage to fit the situation came from a couple of guys with lots of solar experience. Bumping it up when dry camping pushes more charge after a night of running the batteries down. As one of them said, "it can float at night." LOL
A single charge voltage setting is what you get for $30. When I get a chance, I'll watch the operation to see if it does any bulk charging and then settles on the setting for float or "cease charging" as the setting is called.
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Old 05-14-2015, 06:12 AM   #6
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Does anyone have a suggestion for securing the wiring on the roof? I could zip tie to vents and mounts, but how about on the exposed part in between? Adhesive wire clips? Dicor?
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Old 05-14-2015, 06:17 AM   #7
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The wiring itself is very durable and shouldn't fail, so why not just lay it where you want it to run and cover it with DICOR self leveling sealant. It will be there for the "duration".... You might want to protect any plugs or connections with electrical tape prior to the DICOR so they can be "undone" if needed. Otherwise, the DICOR will make it a "one time and forget it" type of installation. I wouldn't use any adhesive or tape clips unless you know the adhesive is compatible with the EPDM or TPO roofing membrane.
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Old 05-14-2015, 09:37 AM   #8
tirnanah
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I used these to tie down the cables on my dad's fifth wheel: http://www.amazon.com/Ancor-403892-E...ds=cable+clamp. I went a little overkill, put dicor underneath it, then screwed it down, then put dicor over the top of the entire thing. You could probably just put it over the screw and be good, but I figured better safe then sorry...

Just get an appropriate size that fits both cables.

Thanks,
Doug
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Old 05-16-2015, 04:54 AM   #9
Dave W
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On our last 5er, the solar panel wiring was just screwed to the roof plywood through a puddle of Dicor with an ADEL clamp then another puddle covered the clamp, screw and wiring at the clamp. No leaks after 8+ years. I did find that those two panels, while working just fine, were pains in my ankles whenever I needed to get up on the roof or put the cover on. The trade off was worth it though
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