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Old 03-16-2017, 03:01 PM   #1
msubobcats
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Ok, this week I will be dewinterizing

And since this is our first time with this new unit what is my routine. Basically I am just questioning my water heater. I am guessing I will just put in the anode and then "flip the switch" inside on the bypass. Then turn on the faucets to flush the antifreeze... Will that flush the water heater? I guess the question would be ridding the water heater of the antifreeze???
Thanks for any info. And hopefully I will remember this next year... I am getting older you know...
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Old 03-16-2017, 03:20 PM   #2
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I don't use antifreeze in my lines but I would think it was winterized with the by pass closed, so there should not be any antifreeze in the water heater. If that's the case then I would flush the lines before opening the by pass to avoid pushing antifreeze into the heater. Then after flushing the lines open up the by pass
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Old 03-16-2017, 03:36 PM   #3
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I've never used anti freeze in my water tank, and if you had the bypass closed, you shouldn't have any either. In that case just flush your lines until you have clear, non foamy water. IF you did winterize with anti freeze in your water heater (how did you do that if the plug was out?) I would flush the system with the bypass closed and the plug out of the water heater. When the system is flushed just open the bypass and let the water flush out of the tank. IF you filled the tank with anti freeze I suppose you're going to have to put the plug in, let it fill and flush again. In the future, drain the hot water tank, turn the bypass and winterize the system.
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Old 03-16-2017, 03:42 PM   #4
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You should not have any antifreeze in your water heater. It is corrosive to the heater liner and should not be introduced to the tank. So, if you winterized with antifreeze, you should leave the water heater bypass in the "winterize" position, connect a hose to your trailer city water connection, turn the cold and hot water faucets closest to the city water connection, then move to the next, etc until all your faucets, toilet and shower have been purged of antifreeze. Don't forget the outside shower. Next, turn off the hose to your city water connection, go under your trailer, remove the two low point drain caps, then turn on the water momentarily to flush the remaining antifreeze out of the two "low points". Then, apply Teflon tape to your anode rod threads, install it "snugly" but don't overtighten.

Fill your fresh water tank and use the appropriate amount of Clorox (1/4 cup for every 10 gallons of fresh water), turn on the pump, run water at each cold water faucet until you smell bleach. Next, turn the winterize valve to "normal" and turn on the water. Allow the water heater to fill, then go inside and purge air from each water faucet by turning on the hot water tap until it no longer "spits" and you smell bleach, move to the next faucet until all are done. Again, don't forget the outside shower. DO NOT OPEN THE PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE ON THE water heater, doing so will remove the air gap and cause your water heater to 'leak at the pressure relief valve"...

Next, let your system sit overnight, then drain your water tank, refill with fresh water and flush all the lines until you no longer smell bleach. Turn on the electric and/or gas to the water heater and check for any water leaks and proper water heater operation. You're now ready to go camping....
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Old 03-16-2017, 03:44 PM   #5
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Thanks, never thought of that...
This is the first year we have ever used antifreeze and I guess with the plug out, which it is, well duh...
Our oldie was really simple.
Thanks...
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Old 03-16-2017, 05:07 PM   #6
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To add to John's procedure, do not forget your clothes washer hot and cold water lines. In my case do not have a washer installed, so I just use a short hose on the hot then cold water lines.

People having a washer connected not sure how they do it, it run washer or drain similar to the way I do?? Wold like to know how they do it??
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Old 03-17-2017, 02:41 AM   #7
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Don't turn on your water heater until the very end of the process, and make doubly sure it's full. It's way too easy to burn it out if there is no water in it.
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Old 03-17-2017, 07:21 AM   #8
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http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...ad.php?t=20540

Here is a link to a sticky on the forum that John posted that covers winterizing. There is a lot of great information here. Dewinterizing is working in reverse. Be sure not to turn on the electric side of your water heater until it is filled with water.

The post also has several videos that you may find helpful. Like carpentry, measure twice, cut once. In dewinterizing, think it through, then think it through again. Good luck.
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Old 03-17-2017, 08:03 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ctbruce View Post
http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...ad.php?t=20540

Here is a link to a sticky on the forum that John posted that covers winterizing. There is a lot of great information here. Dewinterizing is working in reverse. Be sure not to turn on the electric side of your water heater until it is filled with water.

The post also has several videos that you may find helpful. Like carpentry, measure twice, cut once. In dewinterizing, think it through, then think it through again. Good luck.
If we are going to reference this winterize/dewinterize sticky, then I suggest it be updated to include the washer connections (hot,cold,drain). These can be just as easily missed as the outside shower. Here is what is in the sticky now:

"Repeat the above procedure with the HOT water faucets, again starting with the faucet closest to the water pump, and moving to the next faucet in line until all the HOT water faucets flow pink. Don't forget the outdoor kitchen and/or outdoor shower, and/or the washer components (hot, cold, drain). When all of the faucets and the toilet have been purged of water and flow pink, turn off the water pump, remove the anti-freeze suction hose and replace the FW tank supply line on the pump inlet."

I have a post open to see what members do that actually have a washer connected?
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Old 03-17-2017, 08:18 AM   #10
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Sticky is updated....
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Old 03-17-2017, 06:21 PM   #11
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Based on johns approach above wouldn't you have five gallons of bleached water in your hot water tank. Wouldn't it be hard to get it all out without dumping the whole tank again by pulling the plug.
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Old 03-17-2017, 06:47 PM   #12
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I suppose you could have that problem. Through my experience, running water to flush the hot water lines has been enough to flush the water heater as well. When we lived in Louisiana we were on "city water" and always, ALWAYS had the odor of chlorine in our water. Here we're on a private well, no chlorine and with the exception of sanitizing the trailer, no chlorine gets added to our water. We don't notice any smell after sanitizing and flushing the system... Maybe we just have "old, inoperative schnozzes" but we've never had the problem you propose.
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Old 03-17-2017, 07:34 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRTJH View Post
I suppose you could have that problem. Through my experience, running water to flush the hot water lines has been enough to flush the water heater as well. When we lived in Louisiana we were on "city water" and always, ALWAYS had the odor of chlorine in our water. Here we're on a private well, no chlorine and with the exception of sanitizing the trailer, no chlorine gets added to our water. We don't notice any smell after sanitizing and flushing the system... Maybe we just have "old, inoperative schnozzes" but we've never had the problem you propose.
We live with the smell of chlorine in our water. Not just smell, but terrible taste as well. We have multiple filtering systems in place for our drinking/ice water. After that.....ugh. Trying to flush our RV is nothing compared to what we are supposed to drink here (one step above effluent water) so I haven't ever really had an issue dealing with my trailer
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Old 03-17-2017, 08:00 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nellie1289 View Post
Based on johns approach above wouldn't you have five gallons of bleached water in your hot water tank. Wouldn't it be hard to get it all out without dumping the whole tank again by pulling the plug.
You would but the concentration is very low. High enough t kill bacteria. Low enough to be flushed out without residual effects.

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Old 03-18-2017, 08:19 AM   #15
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Thanks for all the replies...
When we set up in the RV Park it was a relatively easy process.
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