Residential fridge and boondocking

MarkEHansen · 10-10-2020, 02:50 PM

We're looking at moving up to a different trailer and found one we really like, but it comes with a residential fridge.

I know some folks really like the residential fridges, but we want to be able to boondock and I don't know if it's reasonable to combine the two.

We plan to run dual 6V batteries with a total of 230AH (20-hour rate) and will have a generator to charge the batteries during the day (and perhaps later, solar). I assume the fridge will have it's own battery + inverter, but I doubt it will last that long on its own.

Question 1: Is it silly to consider using a residential fridge while boondocking?

Question 2: Is it possible to replace a residential fridge with a standard RV fridge? About what would the labor be to do such a replacement?

**sourdough** · 10-10-2020, 03:26 PM

Mark, personally I would not want a res fridge and intend to boondock. If you provide enough power I'm sure you could keep it running but what about everything else? Especially if you needed the furnace etc.

Depending the trailer could come with just one battery for the trailer AND fridge. Or you could add a 2nd or go with 6v. Still, without a way to keep the batteries up I'm afraid it would be a pain. And running a gen in lots of places can be pretty limited.

When we bought this trailer I intended to get a 12cu.ft. rv fridge in case we ever wanted to boondock again. DW loved the res fridge so we had a heart to heart about the likelihood of us hanging out off grid again...we went with the res fridge and boondocking will be with a tent...whoops! guess not, gave all 5 of them away!
If you are looking at Keystones they should have a unit exactly like the one you are looking at with the RV fridge. I believe model numbers ending in 1 will have the res fridge and 0 is the rv fridge. The res fridge is NICE though.

**chuckster57** · 10-10-2020, 03:30 PM

I don’t think it’s silly, just proper planning. You need to look at the battery set-up. Is there room for 2 batteries? If you have gen power I would think you’ll be ok. Adding solar on the roof would be an excellent idea.

Last dealership I worked at sold Tiffen class A’s. Some came with a residential refer, 400W of solar and six 6V batteries. They did have a 2000W inverter that powered everything in the coach except the ACs and W/D.

I say it’s doable.

Cost switch? Depending on model of refer-$2000.00+ for the appliance, probably 8-12hrs labor.

MarkEHansen · 10-10-2020, 03:37 PM

The trailer we looked at has room for 2 batteries, but I guess we could build a vented battery box in the forward storage area (basement?).

I assume if the trailer has a res fridge, it must have an inverter to power it from battery. Do the trailers usually run the fridge inverter from the coach batteries, or from a separate battery(s) - or is each one different?

I guess I need to look at the power requirements for a typical 18cu ft res fridge and do some math

What about the cost of replacing the res fridge with an RV model - is that something we can consider? I was thinking it may be cheaper to buy a 2-4 year old trailer and swap out the fridge than to order a brand new one with an RV fridge (if that's even an option from the manufacturer - which isn't Keystone {cough} by the way).

**chuckster57** · 10-10-2020, 03:45 PM

If your looking at swapping out the refer, you have to consider a few things:
You’ll have 110V for the heating element. BUT you will have to plumb a gas line. Then you’ll need 12V for the control board. RV refers are required to be “sealed” from the interior of the unit to limit exposure to combustion gases, so the opening has to be just right. Don’t forget cutting holes for the access panel and vent. I probably left some things out.

nied · 10-10-2020, 03:50 PM

Take a look at this video:

https://www.gonewiththewynns.com/rv-...igerator-power

MarkEHansen · 10-10-2020, 03:51 PM

Thanks, Chuckster - that's what I was looking for. Probably not something we want to do. I would really rather find a unit that checks all of our boxes anyway

MarkEHansen · 10-10-2020, 03:57 PM

Great post, Nied. Thanks for that.

Javi · 10-10-2020, 04:02 PM

As a note... my Avalanche came with one battery for the trailer and one for the inverter..

Tale of the tape... there is plenty of room for two series 27 batteries in the compartment with the trailer battery... and the same in the front storage with the inverter and inverter battery; not to mention room for a genset..

We're never going to boondock, but when the two 24 series batteries crap out, they will be replaced with series 27's

gearhead · 10-11-2020, 04:08 AM

We've dry camped once in the Oshkosh at the Charlotte Dirt Track last November. Residential refrigerator. It was pretty cool, didn't need A/C. Actually used the heater. I ran 2 Honda 2000's in parallel most of the afternoons and early evenings. Worked well for 3 days.
No complaints at the race track about running generators. I probably had the quietest ones there. Might be an issue at a state or national park though.

ChuckS · 10-11-2020, 05:45 AM

If I was gonna boon dock And had residential fridge I’d have two 6 volt GC2 golf cart batteries for my coach batteries and either two Grp 29 or two GC2 batteries dedicated exclusively for the inverter to run the fridge...

I’d also install a simple isolator between battery banks so that inverter can’t draw from coach batteries yet you’d be able to charge all four batteries from converter if you took along a generator...which I would also not be without.

I have used two Honda 2000 units paralleled since 2014 with my current Alpine... there are less expensive inverter generators out now such as HF and Champion that warrant a good look...

MarkEHansen · 10-11-2020, 06:56 AM

Assuming that while boondocking, I don't need the air conditioner or microwave and I run the water heater on propane - the big power draw will be the res fridge (I think).

Does using dual 2000-watt generators result in the batteries recharging faster than if I were to use just one 2000-watt generator? I don't understand this, since the converter is only going to draw a certain amount of power when charging the batteries. Is this going to be more than 1600 or so watts?

Javi · 10-11-2020, 07:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkEHansen

Assuming that while boondocking, I don't need the air conditioner or microwave and I run the water heater on propane - the big power draw will be the res fridge (I think).

Does using dual 2000-watt generators result in the batteries recharging faster than if I were to use just one 2000-watt generator? I don't understand this, since the converter is only going to draw a certain amount of power when charging the batteries. Is this going to be more than 1600 or so watts?

This should be mandatory reading for all RV owners...

https://wfcoelectronics.com/wp-conte...eration-v2.pdf

**flybouy** · 10-11-2020, 07:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MarkEHansen

Assuming that while boondocking, I don't need the air conditioner or microwave and I run the water heater on propane - the big power draw will be the res fridge (I think).

Does using dual 2000-watt generators result in the batteries recharging faster than if I were to use just one 2000-watt generator? I don't understand this, since the converter is only going to draw a certain amount of power when charging the batteries. Is this going to be more than 1600 or so watts?

If your using the converter in the camper power center then it will at max capacity draw between 8 to 10 amps at 120v ac. It will depend on the converter's rating (55amp?) and the state of the RV's battery charge. So if you take the 10 amps multiplied by 120 volts = 1,200 watts. So having 2 generators running will not be any different than having one running as far as just operating the converter is concerned. If you add more electrical load to the 120v ac system then you would need to add that to the total number of watts to calculate the appropriate generator supply required.

You may also like: