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Old 03-09-2020, 05:26 PM   #21
Gegrad
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Originally Posted by MarkEHansen View Post
When I watch the slide go in or out, I watch the seals and you can really see that you don't want to go half way and reverse direction. It's okay if you stop once or more while bringing it in or out, as you're not changing directions and so not interfering with the folds of the seals.
This is what I do as well. You HAVE to stop with the slide partially extended to get on a ladder and clean/condition the exterior top wiper and seal (unless your arms are 42" long). But when I do that I keep going "in the direction I was heading" until it is either fully closed or fully open. I noticed just from observation if you extend partially then retract the wiper seals may not get fully turned around.
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Old 03-15-2020, 08:39 AM   #22
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When my cable slide is out, the top wires have slack in them. Should all cables be tight, both when retracted and extended?
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Old 03-15-2020, 08:49 AM   #23
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i looked at the keystone owner manual and it does state NOT to step on the slideout floor when retracted. but it also states that the slideout s/b actuated once or twice per week if used while fully extended for long periods of time (as an example I am a full timer and currently parked in the same spot for 3 months)....anyone know why the slideout would need to be retracted & re-extended twice a week in this scenario?
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Old 03-15-2020, 10:00 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by rodgebone View Post
i looked at the keystone owner manual and it does state NOT to step on the slideout floor when retracted. but it also states that the slideout s/b actuated once or twice per week if used while fully extended for long periods of time (as an example I am a full timer and currently parked in the same spot for 3 months)....anyone know why the slideout would need to be retracted & re-extended twice a week in this scenario?
To keep the mechanism exercised and the seals from adhering to the side of the trailer. Is it necessary to do it 2x per week? Maybe, maybe not. But it is the recommended timeframe. Not sure what it's based on. You'll have to decide what you want to do for yourself.
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Old 03-15-2020, 11:02 AM   #25
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When my cable slide is out, the top wires have slack in them. Should all cables be tight, both when retracted and extended?
Mine are the same way, a few inches of slack on the upper left cables.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

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Old 03-15-2020, 04:07 PM   #26
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Mine are the same way, a few inches of slack on the upper left cables.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

Ron W
Exactly. Does anyone know? My slide works, but is tightening them recommended?
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Old 03-15-2020, 04:33 PM   #27
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If the slide is working fine, I would say leave it alone. There might be a specified “slackness” in the manual you can download. I haven’t had to adjust any so I can’t honestly say.
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Old 03-16-2020, 11:31 AM   #28
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Exactly. Does anyone know? My slide works, but is tightening them recommended?
Don't tighten it, show a technician.
I had a cable break last fall. The repair shop said that it was too tight. They replaced under warranty and now it has some slack in it when full extended.
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Old 03-16-2020, 11:37 AM   #29
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I follow the old saying, "if it ain't broke don't fix it"!
As for having them extended for long periods, treat the seals with Pledge furniture polish monthly to keep them clean & in good shape.
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Old 03-16-2020, 12:07 PM   #30
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Exactly. Does anyone know? My slide works, but is tightening them recommended?


This should help. Read page 33:

https://norcoind.com/bal/downloads/a...ion-manual.pdf
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Old 03-16-2020, 12:44 PM   #31
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As for having them extended for long periods, treat the seals with Pledge furniture polish monthly to keep them clean & in good shape.
yep, my thinking exactly. i use slideout seal conditioner monthly so not sure why i need to worry about retracting and extending every week. i think Keystone wants newbies to do this procedure to keep the seals from ripping under warranty (fair enuf). obviously in warm temps rubber is going to stick to the fiberglass siding. also, i always hose off the top of the slideout before retracting so no debris gets under the seals and into the mechanisms. not sure why the motor/cables/pulleys need exercising if there is no dirt getting in there. someone correct my thinking if ive got it wrong
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Old 03-16-2020, 01:50 PM   #32
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travelin texans

yep, my thinking exactly. i use slideout seal conditioner monthly so not sure why i need to worry about retracting and extending every week. i think Keystone wants newbies to do this procedure to keep the seals from ripping under warranty (fair enuf). obviously in warm temps rubber is going to stick to the fiberglass siding. also, i always hose off the top of the slideout before retracting so no debris gets under the seals and into the mechanisms. not sure why the motor/cables/pulleys need exercising if there is no dirt getting in there. someone correct my thinking if ive got it wrong
There's a wee bit more to it than that, but yes, you're on the right path. Have you ever left a pair of pliers on the picnic table over the winter? Did they "open and close easily" in the spring? Corrosion on bearing surfaces, gear mechanism surfaces, electrical connections all need to be "exercised" to remain operational, not to mention "kinking of cables" left wrapped around a spindle/pulley for months on end.

Just as tires need to be flexed to keep the essential oils distributed throughout the rubber carcass, slides need to be exercised to keep the mechanical components "oiled, lubed, greased and working in unison"....
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Old 03-16-2020, 05:11 PM   #33
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There's a wee bit more to it than that, but yes, you're on the right path. Have you ever left a pair of pliers on the picnic table over the winter? Did they "open and close easily" in the spring? Corrosion on bearing surfaces, gear mechanism surfaces, electrical connections all need to be "exercised" to remain operational, not to mention "kinking of cables" left wrapped around a spindle/pulley for months on end.

Just as tires need to be flexed to keep the essential oils distributed throughout the rubber carcass, slides need to be exercised to keep the mechanical components "oiled, lubed, greased and working in unison"....
Fair enough...I certainly appreciate these talking points - the info and experience on this forum is worth every word. lack of use contributes to early component failure. ive seen it many times as a technician & tires are a perfect example. but really, how many of you actually exercise slideout mechanisms/seals every week & hook up to your TV just to run your wrig's tires down the road once a month? it does not shock me just how much maintenance procedures need to be done routinely as recommended per the mfg. and how many owners read the fine print to even KNOW it should be done in the first place?... still, any person would go insane doing EVERYTHING recommended in the owners manual (not to mention on top of your coffee maker, computer or car etc, etc etc). life is too short to worry about ALL of it. stuff needs to be done for sure but how much is too much?

There is fine line between being overly consumed caring for a major purchase like an RV versus what becomes overkill worrying about maintenance to the point it ruins the experience of having it in the first place. personally i am NOT going to hook up just to run my trailer down the road every month just so the tires get some flex after sitting in one place for 3 months but then again i might change my thinking after the first time i have a blow out causing major damage to the underside of my trailer. ill roll the dice. but how many owners run their slideouts in and out every week vs replacing the seals every few years? guess it comes down to individual situations and weather. and if you full time or are a weekend warrior. there is no standard procedure for everyone - we do our maintenance based on individual experience. but the mfg protocol seems overkill to me and just a way to let them off the warranty hook. how do we balance the cost of preventive maintenance versus repairs as they happen? the simple answer is you cant
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Old 03-16-2020, 05:34 PM   #34
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Thanks for that link. But page 33 says "inside" and "outside" cables. But to me, I need to know what is meant by inside and outside being 'top" and "bottom" cables. What do they correlate to? Reading page 33 and you will know what I mean by my question.
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Old 03-16-2020, 06:20 PM   #35
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Thanks for that link. But page 33 says "inside" and "outside" cables. But to me, I need to know what is meant by inside and outside being 'top" and "bottom" cables. What do they correlate to? Reading page 33 and you will know what I mean by my question.
If you extend your "cable slide" then walk outside, you'll see the "outside cables" attached to the slide box in 4 locations, top/bottom front/back of the slide. Then if you go inside, pull the slide in about 12", climb on top, you'll see the slide motor and the "origin of the "inside cables" that extend from the gearbox, to the pulleys at the front/rear of the slide, then down to pulleys where they "exit and become outside cables"....

They are "all the same cable assemblies, but the part exposed to the weather "outside the slide" is more readily subject to corrosion than the part that's "well protected, inside, next to the motor/gearbox.....
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