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05-26-2022, 04:13 PM
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#1
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Lewiston
Posts: 4
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No 12v power
We have a 2017 Cougar travel trailer. We have no power to the jack, slide-out or awning. Yes, we have checked the breakers and fuses. Also new batteries that are installed correctly. We have been told there may be a "re-set" button, other than the one in the plugins. Where would it be located? Not seeing one at all. Or what other trouble shooting can we do? Thanks for any help!
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05-26-2022, 05:06 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,357
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Welcome to the forum
You need a volt/ohm meter. Start at the batteries and follow the positive trailer lead. Test each side of any circuit breaker you find. Most likely looks like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Sea-Dog-42085...38477507&psc=1
After those, you need to know if you have a battery cut off switch and if it’s in the proper position.
Did everything work before and suddenly stop working?
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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05-27-2022, 07:04 AM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Lewiston
Posts: 4
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No 12v power
Will check that...and Yes, the battery shut off is in the correct position.
Thank you!
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05-27-2022, 08:05 AM
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#4
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Site Team
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Joppa, MD
Posts: 11,763
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjg11
We have a 2017 Cougar travel trailer. We have no power to the jack, slide-out or awning. Yes, we have checked the breakers and fuses. Also new batteries that are installed correctly. We have been told there may be a "re-set" button, other than the one in the plugins. Where would it be located? Not seeing one at all. Or what other trouble shooting can we do? Thanks for any help!
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Couple of questions. First off does any 12 vdc things operate? There are 2 seperate electrical systems in a trailer, 120 vac and 12 vdc. Breakers in the power distribution center are for 120 vac only. That would be the plug in receticals like your house has. The TV and microwave are plugged into recepticals as is a fireplace, the fridge, and the water heater if equipped to use it. The air conditioner is also 120 vac.
The 12 vdc side is protected by fuses and outo resetting circuit breakers. There's 2 fuses that are seperate the protects the converter if the battery is connected incorrectly. These "reverse polarity fuses" will blow if you even touch the battery positive with the ground wire or the negative terminal with the positive wire. The 12 vdc side consists of slide motors, awning motors, stabilizer and tongue jack motors and furnace. All lights, the radio, antenna booster, and the thermostate and controls for the a/c, fridge, water heater and vent fans are all 12 vdc.
The slides, awning, and electric stabilizers are typically protected by the out resetting circuit breakers. On travel trailers they are usually mounted on the inside of the A frame and exposed to the elements and prone to corrosion.
Hope this helps.
__________________
Marshall
2012 Laredo 303 TG
2010 F250 LT Super Cab, long bed, 4X4, 6.4 Turbo Diesel
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05-27-2022, 10:39 AM
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#5
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Lewiston
Posts: 4
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No 12v power
Checked all the fuse including the reverse polarity fuses, visually and with a meter. All good. We are getting voltage to the fuse panel, and each side of any circuit breaker. Only thing not working is the jack, slide-out or awning. Everything was working fine last time we used it.
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05-27-2022, 10:55 AM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Las Cruces
Posts: 4,665
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I believe all of the items that aren’t working are direct wired so they’re always hot/not going through the battery disconnect. I’m guessing there is probably an in line fuse near your battery somewhere that has probably blown.
__________________
Brent
2013 Alpine 3500RE
2019 Silverado 2500HD Duramax
U.S. Air Force Retired (25 yrs)
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05-27-2022, 01:24 PM
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#7
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Site Team
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,997
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Follow the + battery cable from your battery to the first connection. That connection will be on one terminal of a DC Mini-breaker that's mounted to the cross bulkhead on your trailer. It will be between the two A-frame members and "down low, under the trailer front cap". That DC Mini-breaker will have a jumper cable to either one or two additional DC Mini-breakers that are mounted next to it. (That's either two or three in a row).
One of those will provide power to the slide/awning and the other will control the power to the trailer systems that are connected to the battery cutoff switch.
My guess is that either you have a loose or corroded connection on one of those mini-breakers or possibly it is corroded and not making contact inside the cheap plastic box. All that's in there is a spring loaded thermal strip that gets hot and opens or stays warm and conducts electricity. Once it gets wet, a very good probability when towing, it will readily corrode and stop working.
So, crawl under your trailer A-frame, behind the battery box and follow the + battery cable to its first connection. I think you'll find your problem there. As Chuckster said in post #2, it'll look like that link or this photo. They come in varying amp ratings, stamped on the box, so you'll need to inspect them to determine what you need as a replacement.
__________________
John
2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
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05-28-2022, 04:59 PM
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#8
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Junior Member
Join Date: May 2022
Location: Lewiston
Posts: 4
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Thanks for all your help!! We are replacing those circuit breakers like in the photo...and hopefully that will fix it.
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