Portable solar panel

[PoCoDep]

Just picked up a Cougar 25 RES with the factory-installed Solarflex 200. I need to add a portable solar panel plugged in to the Zamp side port to keep the batteries charged, since the camper will be stored under roof. Is the side port run through the existing solar controller, or will I need to purchase a regulated panel? TIA

[flybouy]

Easiest way to find out is to put a volt meter on the plug and see if it energized.

[PoCoDep]

I have no doubt that it will be energized, I just wondered if the charge would be controlled.

[flybouy]

If it's energized then it's connected directly to the battery. The charge controller would not allow voltage to " back feed" the solar panel as that would discharge the battery.

[chuckster57]

Originally Posted by PoCoDep

I have no doubt that it will be energized, I just wondered if the charge would be controlled.

Most often the plugs on the side are wired direct to the battery(s) and your portable panel should come with its own controller.

[pasayten]

Yes... Chuckster is right... You need a regulator on the portable panel... I have a 2021 Cougar 26RBS and bought a Zamp portable panel with the rgulator... works great

[PoCoDep]

OK, I understand. Thanks!

[PoCoDep]

Originally Posted by pasayten

Yes... Chuckster is right... You need a regulator on the portable panel... I have a 2021 Cougar 26RBS and bought a Zamp portable panel with the rgulator... works great

What size panel do you recommend to maintain a charge during storage?

[Canonman]

Because the controller will keep the battery from over charging, I'd recommend a 100w kit. That's typically one panel and not too cumbersome should you decide to augment your rooftop unit.

[GHen]

I also agree with above. The ground solar needs its own controller and 100w is a good number.

Remember that if the solar gets snow on them the batteries will discharge and in less than 10 days damage to the batteries could occur.

A good option is to have a FULL battery disconnect while in storage, better yet, remove them before someone steals them. Propane tanks seem to walk also.

[JRTJH]

The above advice is all good and valid PROVIDED you have a gas/electric refrigerator or do not intend to turn on a DC compressor refrigerator. If your trailer has a gas/electric refrigerator, a 100 watt solar panel (which is highly pilferable) will keep your batteries charged, but if you have a 12 volt DC compressor refrigerator, and if you leave it operating, that same 100 watt solar panel won't keep up with the power demands for the refrigerator. So, you'll be OK with the refrigrator turned off, but not with it turned on.

[bigman73]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

Most often the plugs on the side are wired direct to the battery(s) and your portable panel should come with its own controller.

I have a similar question (2022 Passport GT 2951BH).

I understand the solar ground/portable SAE port is connected directly to the battery, and a DC-DC converter is needed (such as the Victron MPPT units).

But how is it connected to the battery?
Is there a way to cut the wire from the back side of the SAE port and insert the MPPT converter between the SAE port and the battery? (i.e. install the MPPT converter in the "basement" of the trailer, similar to how the OEM Victron is mounted)

I'm thinking of getting stand-alone solar panels, without a PWM controller, such as the one offered/bundled by Renogy. There are many more options for just ground panels, and their entry level 200W package is not waterproof (IP66+).

[mikec557]

Originally Posted by bigman73

I have a similar question (2022 Passport GT 2951BH).

(1) I understand the solar ground/portable SAE port is connected directly to the battery, and a DC-DC converter is needed (such as the Victron MPPT units).

(2) But how is it connected to the battery?
Is there a way to cut the wire from the back side of the SAE port and insert the MPPT converter between the SAE port and the battery? (i.e. install the MPPT converter in the "basement" of the trailer, similar to how the OEM Victron is mounted)

(1) Just to get our lingo straight, you don't use a DC-DC converter with regard to solar. In fact you don't use a "converter" nor a "regulator." Instead you'll use a "solar charge controller" (PWM or MPPT). If you're talking about the SAE port that's connected to the battery, then the easiest thing to do is buy a portable solar panel with a built in solar charge controller. Really, at the low wattage of a simple portable panel PWM is good enough.

(2) don't cut the wires off the back of the SAE connector. Leave the wires straight from the SAE plug to the battery. Though typically there's an inline automotive blade fuse on the positive wire.

Hope that helps.

[bigman73]

Originally Posted by mikec557

(1) Just to get our lingo straight, you don't use a DC-DC converter with regard to solar. In fact you don't use a "converter" nor a "regulator." Instead you'll use a "solar charge controller" (PWM or MPPT). If you're talking about the SAE port that's connected to the battery, then the easiest thing to do is buy a portable solar panel with a built in solar charge controller. Really, at the low wattage of a simple portable panel PWM is good enough.

(2) don't cut the wires off the back of the SAE connector. Leave the wires straight from the SAE plug to the battery. Though typically there's an inline automotive blade fuse on the positive wire.

Hope that helps.

Thanks for your advice.

Regd terms - yes, I meant solar charge controller.

As for item #2 - I might get a 400W portable panel, or a 200W panel that doesn't have a bundled controller. Either way I want to get a waterproof panel. The renogy entry level panel is just not waterproof and it solves one problem (ease of installation) but introduces reliability issues. For example, if I leave the solar panel out and there's sudden strong rain then the panel is in danger.

So I go back to my question - suppose I do want to install a solar charge controller within the basement. It seems to me that Keystone put that SAE solar port for regulated low amp usage only (20A, up to 14.4V) where the solar charge controller is supplied externally.

Can I use the existing SAE connector and the wire behind it (fused or not)? How does the OEM SAE connector connect to the battery? Through the Giggy box?

Or, do I need to create a whole new solution - mount another new SAE connector, use its back wire to feed a Victron MPPT (100/30), and then run thick enough battery wires to the battery (much like the inverter, but in a reverse direction)?
For 400W at 48V Open Circuit Voltage (<10 amps), SAE seems like a good choice, due to its weatherproofing. would you agree?

I'm thinking of this panel (or similar):
https://amzn.to/4apnmGU

[jxnbbl]

Originally Posted by bigman73

Thanks for your advice.

...It seems to me that Keystone put that SAE solar port for regulated low amp usage only (20A, up to 14.4V) where the solar charge controller is supplied externally.

Can I use the existing SAE connector and the wire behind it (fused or not)? How does the OEM SAE connector connect to the battery? Through the Giggy box?

Or, do I need to create a whole new solution - mount another new SAE connector, use its back wire to feed a Victron MPPT (100/30), and then run thick enough battery wires to the battery (much like the inverter, but in a reverse direction)?
For 400W at 48V Open Circuit Voltage (<10 amps), SAE seems like a good choice, due to its weatherproofing. would you agree?

I'm thinking of this panel (or similar):
https://amzn.to/4apnmGU

I always thought that it was put there for "regulated" portable panels such as the Zamp panels. I think these only go to about 150W. So yes it will work by putting a regulator in there and the wire gauge is correct, etc. In our configuration if I was to do that it isn't worth the wiring effort (imo) I would ignore this plug and design something completely different with a regulator and portable panels that are movable. (Assuming you want to place the panels due to shade, etc).

We have a weather station with a camera that required 110v. In reality it needs 12V DC and there is no way to get the 110V to the location. A 400W panel and then a weatherproof controller and battery now drive that. Bringing this back to the 'wiring required' - unless you get a waterproof charge controller (probably a premium price) you have to wire this into the passthrough or some place out of the weather. So to me, the key location and the work centers around the controller and not dictated by the existing plug.

[bigman73]

Originally Posted by jxnbbl

I always thought that it was put there for "regulated" portable panels such as the Zamp panels. I think these only go to about 150W. So yes it will work by putting a regulator in there and the wire gauge is correct, etc.
...
So to me, the key location and the work centers around the controller and not dictated by the existing plug.

Yes, it seems so - a Zamp ready connector.

I'd probably need a new setup/wires.

[mikec557]

Originally Posted by bigman73

Thanks for your advice.

Regd terms - yes, I meant solar charge controller.

As for item #2 - I might get a 400W portable panel, or a 200W panel that doesn't have a bundled controller. Either way I want to get a waterproof panel. The renogy entry level panel is just not waterproof and it solves one problem (ease of installation) but introduces reliability issues. For example, if I leave the solar panel out and there's sudden strong rain then the panel is in danger.

So I go back to my question - suppose I do want to install a solar charge controller within the basement. It seems to me that Keystone put that SAE solar port for regulated low amp usage only (20A, up to 14.4V) where the solar charge controller is supplied externally.

Can I use the existing SAE connector and the wire behind it (fused or not)? How does the OEM SAE connector connect to the battery? Through the Giggy box?

Or, do I need to create a whole new solution - mount another new SAE connector, use its back wire to feed a Victron MPPT (100/30), and then run thick enough battery wires to the battery (much like the inverter, but in a reverse direction)?
For 400W at 48V Open Circuit Voltage (<10 amps), SAE seems like a good choice, due to its weatherproofing. would you agree?

I'm thinking of this panel (or similar):
https://amzn.to/4apnmGU

If your goal is to possibly use up to a 400 watt solar panel, then I don't think you can cut the back of the SAE plug and splice in a solar charge controller. But. I could be wrrrrong. Boy that's hard to say. LOL. Really, the answer to your question is based on the gauge wire on the back of the SAE plug, can it carry the load from your solar panel output? Somewhere in the back of my mind, I think I recall that the SAE connector was good for up to 10amps. But don't quote me on that. I think if it was me, I'd engineer a new/different connector.
New: panel of choice, wires to connector, connector, wires from connector to SCC, wires from SCC to battery. With a fuse in there somewhere.

[GlasNav]

Just a reminder, if you use other than a Zamp panel you will need to swap the polarity going into the Zamp socket. Zamp or at least the legacy ones from '21 and earlier weren't following what everyone else was doing regarding polarity.

[B-O-B'03]

Our trailer did not come with any solar prep so I added an Anderson connector with 6AWG wire to the batteries and I use it to plug the Renogy solar controller, for the portable panel in as well as a power output for the macerator pump, tire compressor and anything else that needs 12 volts.



-Brian

[bigman73]

Originally Posted by mikec557

If your goal is to possibly use up to a 400 watt solar panel, then I don't think you can cut the back of the SAE plug and splice in a solar charge controller. But. I could be wrrrrong. Boy that's hard to say. LOL. Really, the answer to your question is based on the gauge wire on the back of the SAE plug, can it carry the load from your solar panel output? Somewhere in the back of my mind, I think I recall that the SAE connector was good for up to 10amps. But don't quote me on that. I think if it was me, I'd engineer a new/different connector.
New: panel of choice, wires to connector, connector, wires from connector to SCC, wires from SCC to battery. With a fuse in there somewhere.

Thanks for the info.
I decided to build a portable solar charging system from scratch.
Bought the Victron 100/30 SmartSolar MPPT SCC, fuse, breaker switch, correctly wires and wall mount (SAE - it's just reliable, easy and with max 20A all I need). I ordered the 400W IP68 ECOFLOW portable panel.
I think that with max 600W total (200 roof + 400 portable), and a 230AH LiFePO4 battery, I should be fine in 95% of boondocking scenarios. And as a backup I have a generator as well as a 110VAC->12V 20A lithium charger I can connect to my pickup (or generator)