Hitch wobble

[{tpc}]

Originally Posted by flybouy

I think you need to take those measurements to know what you have. Did those pins come with those shanks from the factory? Are both of those shanks otherwise identical? I.E. is one hollow and one solid?

Yes, both are solid shanks. The tighter one has more of a drop to it, as I needed that for my old wdh with my old Tahoe. When I went to the f150 I put the shank back on that came with the hitch. When I went to the current trailer, I sold the old one with the hitch, and bought a brand new curt tru track, which came with this large hole for the pin and the hitch pin you see in the photos.

I still had the old larger drop shank so I grabbed it for a quick side by side comparison.

[{tpc}]

Originally Posted by dutchmensport

If your receiver and your hitch shaft combination have some "slop" in it, there is not much you can do. The hitch shaft will move inside the receiver sleeve which will eventually cause wear on the hole where the pin inserts. Once the hole wears to a certain point, you'll have some banging going on because the hitch shaft can actually move slightly and it will start hitting the pin. Over time, that slop will get more and more too.

Even with weight distribution, the forces of the trailer (acceleration and deceleration) are going to be greater than the friction caused by the weight distribution. No matter what you do, the hitch shaft is going to move around. The ONLY sure fire way to prevent movement is to weld the hitch shank directly into the receiver shaft making it impossible to move at all. This is the only true solution. But, no one wants to do that. (me included).

In order to get a shank to fit truly snug, it would have to be so accurate, it would take a sledge hammer to pound the hitch into the shaft.

Gotcha. I understand. Was just trying to make it a little better, then I noticed the hole size difference in the 2 shanks. I am guessing if I correct that somehow, that will suffice to “make it a little better”.

I understand that it will never be perfectly tight and why it can’t be. I was just surprised at the significant difference I saw between the 2 shanks I have.

[sourdough]

The "slop" and accompanying noise and movement can be annoying. On my TT I ended up buying the clamp in this link;

https://www.amazon.com/Hitch-Clamp-T...s%2C115&sr=8-8

It's a Hitch Clamp and worked great with the TT. The slop, clanking and banging were eliminated (10k gvw trailer). You do have to get it set up right...and tight. I use a ratchet with a 15" handle and pull it down tight.

When I got rid of the TT I had to have a shank made to put my mud flaps on when towing. I still use this clamp on that shank to take all the "wiggly/wobbly" out of the receiver mounted mud flaps and bracket. It might be the answer to your problem.

[flybouy]

I use the same hitch clamp Danny refrenced above. It works well for me but the slop in mine is not at the hitch pin but at the difference in reciever and draw bar. I've thought about running a few beads of weld down the draw bar to tighten it up but just haven't been motivated to do so. I guess I'm lazy as the clamp and my Dewalt cordless impact makes it easy.

[sourdough]

Originally Posted by flybouy

I use the same hitch clamp Danny refrenced above. It works well for me but the slop in mine is not at the hitch pin but at the difference in reciever and draw bar. I've thought about running a few beads of weld down the draw bar to tighten it up but just haven't been motivated to do so. I guess I'm lazy as the clamp and my Dewalt cordless impact makes it easy.

Yes, you are right. Mine is/was too. My thinking is that the play allowed by that pin is then transferred to the receiver and shank (along with any reducer etc.). Whatever is allowed by that pin or the sleeve in the receiver (if there is one) should be stopped by that clamp when it is clamped down to the exterior of the receiver tube and the hitch shank. I had a loose sleeve and pin with the TT and it took the slop out.

[{tpc}]

Originally Posted by sourdough

The "slop" and accompanying noise and movement can be annoying. On my TT I ended up buying the clamp in this link;

https://www.amazon.com/Hitch-Clamp-T...s%2C115&sr=8-8

It's a Hitch Clamp and worked great with the TT. The slop, clanking and banging were eliminated (10k gvw trailer). You do have to get it set up right...and tight. I use a ratchet with a 15" handle and pull it down tight.

When I got rid of the TT I had to have a shank made to put my mud flaps on when towing. I still use this clamp on that shank to take all the "wiggly/wobbly" out of the receiver mounted mud flaps and bracket. It might be the answer to your problem.

So this is one that I bought a few weeks back. But maybe I'll try yours.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JPCVM14...roduct_details

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by {tpc}

So this is one that I bought a few weeks back. But maybe I'll try yours.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JPCVM14...roduct_details

I tried a similar one like that (a saddle or U clamp design) and threw it away after a few trips. When I cranked down on the nuts enough to stop the movement the U bolt stretched anmd then the threads pulled and it finally snapped the U bolt at threads. That puny 5/16" thread just couldn't handle the stress.

[{tpc}]

Originally Posted by flybouy

I tried a similar one like that (a saddle or U clamp design) and threw it away after a few trips. When I cranked down on the nuts enough to stop the movement the U bolt stretched anmd then the threads pulled and it finally snapped the U bolt at threads. That puny 5/16" thread just couldn't handle the stress.

Thanks. Maybe I’ll send that one back and try the other.

[{tpc}]

Ok to revisit this a bit. Curt’s techs gave me a little insight, some of which was helpful, some of which I didn’t quite agree with.

They gave me the max/min dimensions on the the hitch pin hole for their shank. Of course mine is at the very upper limit, and this is the cause of the slop. They said I could buy a new shank but since there isn’t a guarantee on the hole size being smaller, it didn’t make much sense.

Then they essentially said I must be running too low a tongue weight, because at a proper tongue weight, the shank would never slop around in the receiver like that. This is the part I didn’t agree with, at least to some extent. Since those parts aren’t static and always moving around, it’s going to move, regardless of tongue weight.

Now tongue weight may play some part in it. That much I’ll agree with. But at this point I’m just going to leave it be. Maybe I’ll come across a different setup or shank someday, and I’ll replace it.