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Old 03-06-2020, 04:53 PM   #1
roadglide
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Minor frame failure

This area failure is behind the second axle and the next Trusset back. The 3/ 32 wire bracing broke and bent the light weight 1/8 2 inch angle didn’t appear to be Click image for larger version

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ID:	25457bent or broken all welds look good to the frame Considering the trusses are very light weight . Im open for suggestions on repairs .
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Old 03-06-2020, 07:48 PM   #2
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I don’t know what a trusset is, and without being there, it is hard to visualize the big picture. But, I would consider welding plate steel to make a composite beam where the broken zigzag supports are. I would use tack welds between the existing welds on top and bottom. As far as the angle steel braces go, you could reinforce those as well with another angle steel member. If you weld it to the existing brace, I think you need to heat the steel to minimize heat stress. I am not a welder so get some better advice. I just think it can be fixed.
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Old 03-06-2020, 08:31 PM   #3
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Jerry,

I wonder if that dropped stabilizer jack and this damage are related? Not that I think the broken truss would cause the jack to fall, but if the jack fell, it may have pulled the frame, putting stress on the truss and causing it to break. If that happened, I'd wonder what else on the frame might have been "twisted", "tweaked" or "pulled out of alignment" ???

If you get under there and do some "real close checking" you might find more than just some broken rods on a single truss.....

In the first photo, it looks like there is a broken truss "up next to the camera" and a second broken truss next to the tank.. Are there two that broke or is that just the camera angle and reflection?
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Old 03-06-2020, 08:56 PM   #4
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If I were making a "backyard" repair I think I would get some pipe that the wire of the truss fit's snugly into. Slide it over and down one side of the break, tack weld the wire, slide the pipe centered on the joint and weld the pipe to the wire. Hope that makes sense.

I'd suggest taking some very good measurements to make certain that the frame is not bent or distorted. Any idea what the cause was?
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Old 03-06-2020, 09:03 PM   #5
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The rear stabilizer never hit the ground a drive by trucker warned me . The only damage is the bent and broken rod on the 2 trusses welding near the coroplast won't be good . John you seen it right and I should proubley will remove all the coroplast . The wood floor seems to be secured only on the trailer I beam frame . The floor floats on top of the truss it looks like the truss keep the I beams straights and the welds are good to the I Beam .
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Old 03-06-2020, 09:08 PM   #6
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If there's no twisted frame or other weld damage, I'd do as Marshall suggested, but a length of 3/8" ID iron pipe, cut 6" sections, slide a section up the broken truss crossbrace, then slip it down so the break is about the center of the iron pipe section, tack weld in place, then after all are aligned, the truss beams are even and straight, I'd weld around the ends of the pipe to finish the repair.
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Old 03-07-2020, 03:00 AM   #7
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You need to weld pieces of steel plate to the top and bottom chords of the truss at each broken rod. 1/4" plate x 1" wide should do it. 4 broken web rods means 4 pieces of plate. Weld it to the angle at the top and bottom.
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Old 03-07-2020, 08:01 PM   #8
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Thanks for other ideas I’m definitely using 2x2 3/16 angle iron scale it along the top angle. I have 3/8 round stock to to weld along the 5/32 broken and bent rod . I will might use 2x2 3/16 flat strip in the middle where the lighter rod failed and that would be welded to the I beam frame . I’m using heavy enough material that I can concentrate the heat . The area needing reinforcements is difficult to get work . Terrible roads , overloading and light weight rod for the trusses caused the truss failure . The only way I found it was I needed to mount my condor bike chock.
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Old 03-08-2020, 02:47 PM   #9
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Well, it is good that you did find it, or progressive failure would continue!!!
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Old 03-10-2020, 06:10 PM   #10
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I used 3/8 rod and bent the 3/16 rod and welded to the 3/8 . This repair took the flimsy sway out of the trusses.
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Old 03-12-2020, 07:37 AM   #11
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I forgot to mention when doing any welding repairs disconnect all of the ground cables on the battery . Also keep the ground cable close to your work this will help grounding through bearing, Solar and on command controls.
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Old 03-15-2020, 08:15 AM   #12
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I am not an engineer, but I have some experience with frame twist from the axle spring hangers back. In my case, it began with slight bending or angles appearing on the rear spring hangers. The main frame rails would twist, as in my case there wasn’t adequate crossmember to stop it during tight turns, especially when backing & the trailer tires were being dragged/scuffed sideways. I took it to a frame shop, they repaired the damage, but they wanted to add an x-member between the main rails terminating above each spring perch, it was also suggested that I add another stiffer crossmember behind the rear axle…I did not do it, my wife & I had already decided to sell the trailer & wanted to down size anyway, hence, that is why we just had the unit repaired. The frame shop said this is quite common on the longer trailers. I have a very tight 90 degree turn into my driveway with exposed aggregate, witch really grabs the tires, they make horrendous angles when backing…I do my best now to do a series of shorter, less angle turns, but we also down sized. I believe there is a “bolt on kit” available out there that x members between the axles, but I do not know how well they work or who makes them.
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Old 03-15-2020, 06:19 PM   #13
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I understand that can happen I’m using Dexter easy flex hangers. The way I see it if the frame was trying to separate the trusses would have been broken away from the frame . I think being loaded heavy in the garage and driving over dips and cattle guards caused the floating floor to hammer the light trusses this repair a lot easier then having the trusses braking away from the I beam main frame.
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Old 03-16-2020, 06:49 AM   #14
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go for the gold

Quote:
Originally Posted by fulltilt View Post
I am not an engineer, but I have some experience with frame twist from the axle spring hangers back. In my case, it began with slight bending or angles appearing on the rear spring hangers. The main frame rails would twist, as in my case there wasn’t adequate crossmember to stop it during tight turns, especially when backing & the trailer tires were being dragged/scuffed sideways. I took it to a frame shop, they repaired the damage, but they wanted to add an x-member between the main rails terminating above each spring perch, it was also suggested that I add another stiffer crossmember behind the rear axle…I did not do it, my wife & I had already decided to sell the trailer & wanted to down size anyway, hence, that is why we just had the unit repaired. The frame shop said this is quite common on the longer trailers. I have a very tight 90 degree turn into my driveway with exposed aggregate, witch really grabs the tires, they make horrendous angles when backing…I do my best now to do a series of shorter, less angle turns, but we also down sized. I believe there is a “bolt on kit” available out there that x members between the axles, but I do not know how well they work or who makes them.
Here you go. This will tighten up the frame.


http://www.morryde.com/products/108-...ers-by-morryde
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