Adjusting Suburban Hot Water Temps?

FullTimer · 01-19-2014, 03:01 PM

Ok guys, I have been all over this HW heater and can't find anywhere to adjust the electric side heat. Not sure of model since it's on the faded sticker. ahhh found it SW6 DE. Propane/ electric with electronic ignition on it, The propane side get is quite a bit hotter, than just running electric. What am I missing? I have popped the two rubber plugs and they both look like resets, not an electric thermostat adjustment. Also, does it look like it's missing the air adjustment sleeve on the burner assembly? Watching the flame, blueish torquise, it sounds almost like to much air in the mix, slightly rough sounding, but it smells like it's burning pretty well, not to rich, which it would'nt if it was getting too much air. Any help would be appreciated, this temp deal has me stumped.

therink · 01-19-2014, 03:12 PM

There is no adjustments I know of. When the demand for hot water is great, I usually run both electric and propane at same time. You can also try removing and checking your electric element and see if there is any mineral build up on it.

FullTimer · 01-19-2014, 03:24 PM

Thanks, That was what I was wondering. I found the right manual, and not much inside that black panel. I was expecting an adjustable one like on a home heater.
Figure 18, Page 7
http://manuals.adventurerv.net/Subur...stallation.pdf

Festus2 · 01-19-2014, 03:27 PM

I believe the temperature settings are preset at the factory and cannot be adjusted.
That is the information that is in my Owner's Manual.

FullTimer · 01-19-2014, 03:43 PM

Thanks guys. Guess that answers that. Does it look like it's missing the air adjustment sleeve? Here's an Ebay listing for what under the black cover I assume. Only two temperatures are listed anywhere, 130 and 140 degrees.

**hankpage** · 01-19-2014, 06:42 PM

I think that part is not accessed from the front ... it is on the side by the electrical connections are and on the tank itself ..... I think

bobbecky · 01-19-2014, 06:54 PM

No, both the 12V and 120V thermostat/over temp sensors are under the black plastic cover that has the rubber button covers. The problem with the electric mode temperature being too high may be the 120V sensor being bad, allowing the element to stay energized to a higher temp than designed. It is very easy to replace, two screws to remove the cover (may take a little careful prying to get cover loose from the gasket), two spade type connectors to remove from the thermostat, one nut to remove from the stud on the face of the unit. Make very sure that you have NO VOLTAGE!! at the thermostat when you do all this. Just install the new thermostat with the nut, re-install the two wires, and replace the cover. Those rubber caps are also available if you want.

FullTimer · 01-19-2014, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobbecky

No, both the 12V and 120V thermostat/over temp sensors are under the black plastic cover that has the rubber button covers. The problem with the electric mode temperature being too high may be the 120V sensor being bad, allowing the element to stay energized to a higher temp than designed. It is very easy to replace, two screws to remove the cover (may take a little careful prying to get cover loose from the gasket), two spade type connectors to remove from the thermostat, one nut to remove from the stud on the face of the unit. Make very sure that you have NO VOLTAGE!! at the thermostat when you do all this. Just install the new thermostat with the nut, re-install the two wires, and replace the cover. Those rubber caps are also available if you want.

Thanks, I wasn't really sure why the propane side would heat much hotter, which is fine with me. I haven't temped it, but probably 180ish or so. I don't mind that, since I like hot water, but really was just wondering if it's suppose to be that way compared to the electric side. I found a place to get the rubber caps tonight and saved it. I can't help but wonder if someone has replaced one of the sensors, because both of mine have the reset buttons on them, the small tubing standing up. Everywhere I see online, only one has them.

<<<<nevermind lol, under the cover is probably going to be two dual systems, standing upright, that's why there are two buttons, one for each system.
http://www.marksrv.com/store52/agora...thermostat-eco

Eta Ok I think I have it figured out, there are two dual assemblies, each with an over limit and a thermostat. The manual shows two different part numbers for each, 120 vs 12 volt(propane)
Suburban 232319 Thermostat Switch Assembly =12 volt
Suburban 232317 Thermostat Switch =120 volt

http://manuals.adventurerv.net/Subur...stallation.pdf

Eta 2 I would sure like to know if the 12 volt thermostat (propane) is set higher than the electric from the factory..May be time to pop the cover off and read the temp setting between the two.

**hankpage** · 01-19-2014, 07:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bobbecky

No, both the 12V and 120V thermostat/over temp sensors are under the black plastic cover that has the rubber button covers. The problem with the electric mode temperature being too high may be the 120V sensor being bad, allowing the element to stay energized to a higher temp than designed. It is very easy to replace, two screws to remove the cover (may take a little careful prying to get cover loose from the gasket), two spade type connectors to remove from the thermostat, one nut to remove from the stud on the face of the unit. Make very sure that you have NO VOLTAGE!! at the thermostat when you do all this. Just install the new thermostat with the nut, re-install the two wires, and replace the cover. Those rubber caps are also available if you want.

Thanks Bob, If I had a problem I would have been looking in the wrong spot.

FullTimer · 01-19-2014, 07:55 PM

Eta to add, so if the propane side is higher temps than the electric, why couldn't you put one of the 12 volts in, since they are probably normally closed like the 120 volts?

bobbecky · 01-19-2014, 08:02 PM

I had to replace our 120V thermostat/high temp part a couple of months ago when it failed. It had a red button on it instead of the gray. The button, gray or red, resets the high temp relay if it trips off due to an over temp condition. Turns out the parts with the red button were bad from the supplier to Suburban. So, if your 12V side which controls the gas water heat is bad, then maybe that is why your heater in the gas mode is too hot. If like you say, the electric isn't as hot as the gas mode, and you feel the gas mode is at the correct temperature, then that could be a bad electric thermostat. The 12V part number is 232282, and the 120V part number is 232306. Like was suggested, you may have an element that is crusted up with mineral deposits. How long has it been since the anode has been replaced? They should be checked annually and the tank flushed out to protect the tank from corrosion. That is also the time to check the element if you suspect it.

FullTimer · 01-20-2014, 06:25 AM

Thanks Bob, I flushed it yesterday, when I installed a new T&P valve. The anode looks fine, a few deposits but still as large as it was new. I'm going to investigate more and see if the 12 volt has a different temp setting than the 120 volt.

**JRTJH** · 01-20-2014, 10:59 AM

Chuck,

If you look in the newest downloaded Suburban owner's manual, on page 6/7 it describes the safety thermostat operation. Figure 13 is the 12VDC and Figure 14 is the 120VAC thermostat safety switch.

In the descriptions, it says that the high temperature limit is 180*F for each switch and that the water temperature must be below 110*F before they will reset once they are activated...

From that, it appears that both the 12VDC and the 120VAC upper limit temp switches are set to activate at 180*F.

The thermostats are not adjustable, and they must turn off the heating element/gas before the temperature reaches 180*F. Once the manual safety upper limit activates, it must be manually reset.

I know this doesn't completely answer your question: "Does the electric thermostat shut down at a lower temp than the gas thermostat under "normal" operation?" If you do get the answer to that, please post it.

It's been my unscientific, "hand under the tap" hot water test that both are about the same temp, but the electric "runs out" faster due to not as many BTU's to reheat. The newer HWH advertises a 16 GPH recovery rate. From what I can find, that does require both the electric and gas to be operational. Either by itself reduces the GPH recovery.

Cheers,

ADDED: I just had a

and thought, why not look up the danged part numbers.... So, the 12VDC is PN 232282 and described as a 130*F thermostat. the 120VAC is PN 232306 and described as a 130*F thermostat. Both have safety cutout at 180*F. As I remember (back in the gray fog) there is a 145*F thermostat available from Suburban, but I don't know if it's electric or gas. I haven't seen one anywhere for quite some time. Heck, they may not even fit the newer model heaters. Anyway, hopefully, this answers the question. They should both heat to 130*F and both have a safety cutout at 180*F with manual reset once the water temp is below 110*F. I would "surmise" that since the manual reset won't operate above 110*, the automatic is probably also limited the same. That would put the "automatic operation" at power on < 110*F and power off >130*F.

FullTimer · 01-20-2014, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Chuck,

If you look in the newest downloaded Suburban owner's manual, on page 6/7 it describes the safety thermostat operation. Figure 13 is the 12VDC and Figure 14 is the 120VAC thermostat safety switch.

In the descriptions, it says that the high temperature limit is 180*F for each switch and that the water temperature must be below 110*F before they will reset once they are activated...

From that, it appears that both the 12VDC and the 120VAC upper limit temp switches are set to activate at 180*F.

The thermostats are not adjustable, and they must turn off the heating element/gas before the temperature reaches 180*F. Once the manual safety upper limit activates, it must be manually reset.

I know this doesn't completely answer your question: "Does the electric thermostat shut down at a lower temp than the gas thermostat under "normal" operation?" If you do get the answer to that, please post it.

It's been my unscientific, "hand under the tap" hot water test that both are about the same temp, but the electric "runs out" faster due to not as many BTU's to reheat. The newer HWH advertises a 16 GPH recovery rate. From what I can find, that does require both the electric and gas to be operational. Either by itself reduces the GPH recovery.

Cheers,

ADDED: I just had a

and thought, why not look up the danged part numbers.... So, the 12VDC is PN 232282 and described as a 130*F thermostat. the 120VAC is PN 232306 and described as a 130*F thermostat. Both have safety cutout at 180*F. As I remember (back in the gray fog) there is a 145*F thermostat available from Suburban, but I don't know if it's electric or gas. I haven't seen one anywhere for quite some time. Heck, they may not even fit the newer model heaters. Anyway, hopefully, this answers the question. They should both heat to 130*F and both have a safety cutout at 180*F with manual reset once the water temp is below 110*F. I would "surmise" that since the manual reset won't operate above 110*, the automatic is probably also limited the same. That would put the "automatic operation" at power on < 110*F and power off >130*F.

That makes sense John, I haven't had time to check it, house of family lol.

You may also like: