Dometic Refrigerator

[meaz93*]

So I do my walk through of the trailer for this weekends camping trip; only to find that the right side refrigerator is not working at all and this is the one that is the 2018 model> the left frigid is a 2017.
I know/ discovered this during the RV inspection walk through back in 2018. Keystone would not budge on replacing the older unit.....which BTW has different master panels?
It came that way from the factory and was told that Keysrone probably had a surplus on 2017 units?
Anyway....I
checked absolutely all connections in and around the trailer.
When I get to the outside panel to the refers I find the left side to be unplugged!?
I mean seriously....it was in for service at the Dealership back in 2018 for not working on shore power , and was told they couldn't find a problem >Niiicccee
Went through the circuit board ; fuses, connections, fuel line & reset button> everything checked out.
I ordered a circuit board for the front of the Dometic.[emoji15]
It's always something-lol

[chuckster57]

That’s called the Eye brow board. Hopefully that fixes it. Funny how the dealer said no problem found and it was unplugged. I would have reservations about using them again.

[meaz93*]

Originally Posted by chuckster57

That’s called the Eye brow board. Hopefully that fixes it. Funny how the dealer said no problem found and it was unplugged. I would have reservations about using them again.

Exactly.....not thrilled about LaMesa RV?
They definitely won't be seeing my Outback again[emoji848]

[meaz93*]

Update. Bought an updated new Dometic circuit board last November and installed it.
Part did not work, or may I say the refrigerator did not power on?
Checked everything to and from that board.
Took the part out and sent it back for a refund.
I guess it's possible for a so called new part to be defective.... [emoji848]
I will order another one and see if that works[emoji1696]
Good news is I fixed my broken main kitchen/ living area cable slide .
Replaced the gearbox and am bottoming up the cosmetics [emoji106]
She should be ready for camping by May!!!

[ChuckS]

2852 fridge -m are you using a service manual when you state you "went thru and checked everything"?

Eye brow panels are usually not the problem at hand when the fridge isnt working..

link to service manual
https://fourwheelcampers.com/NewDome...atorManual.pdf

[CedarCreekWoody]

Have you verified the thermal fuse is good?

[ChuckS]

On your RM2852 fridge there are actually TWO thermal fuses to be concerned with.. the first of course is located on the chimney stack..

There is however an In Lime thermal fuse and if this opens up the fridge is Dead..

See images

[CedarCreekWoody]

Yes mine has two as well. The inline fuse is normally covered by a mesh sleeve. Replacement fuses are available on amazon.

Read this link: https://www.keystoneforums.com/forum...t=Thermal+fuse

[meaz93*]

No I did not use the manual. I think I better. I did not know about the Thermal fuses, this would make sense now.
Thanks you all.

[meaz93*]

Considering I keep everything-lol....I found the service manuals for both Dometic fridges.
Of course their pretty useless-IMO
I did see the Thermal fuse that is closer to the gas burner?, and their seems to be an inline thermal "Do-Ma-Jigger"? in the schematic near the circuit board.....ohh boy what fun!?
Ok....what do you think needs to be replaced-lol
Their is ABSOLUTELY no power to the inside eyebrow or light inside the refrigerator ( which is the 2017 model & the left side is a 2018-butbit works..[emoji848] )
I still have the OG circuit board, maybe I snip and cut/ replace something? [emoji2955][emoji16]

[meaz93*]

Schematics...

[CedarCreekWoody]

Check those fuses with your volt meter, the inline one first. Do you have 12 volts going in? 12 volts coming out? Etc.

[chuckster57]

When a Dometic fridge won’t even power on, my first check is the thermal fuse in the weave, then the one on the chimney and then the ones on the board.

[JRTJH]

In addition to measuring the input/output voltage of the thermal fuses (both of them) as suggested by Woody, once you determine that they "test correctly", you can then jumper across them (one at a time) to see if you get an interior light and "power to the upper eyebrow panel". Only jumper temporarily (for troubleshooting purposes only) as leaving the jumpers in place will bypass their safety features and you could risk the chimney heaters failing to shut down if they did, for some reason, overheat and cause a potential safety risk.

Just use a jumper wire with an alligator clip on each end, bypass the thermofuse and push the power switch on the eyebrow. The power LED and the internal cabinet light "should" power on if that thermofuse was defective. If the refrigerator doesn't power on, jumper the other thermofuse and try again. If it doesn't come on, then jumper BOTH thermofuses and try a third time.

If it's one or both of the thermofuse safety devices, you'll not only have the "voltage measurements to confirm the problem" but you'll also have the "functional test" to confirm that no other issue exists and that will give you the indication that replacing the bad/faulty thermofuse device or devices will get you "up and running"....

Don't operate the refrigerator with either thermofuse bypassed unless you are monitoring the refrigerator during troubleshooting. This process will allow the refrigerator to work (hopefully) but will completely bypass the safety features and could lead to a fire or damage that is not repairable.

Bypassing the thermofuses is intended to be a "troubleshooting step" not a "leave in place until parts come in step"......

[CedarCreekWoody]

The previous two posts give you excellent advice on troubleshooting the fuses.

[meaz93*]

Appreciate the trouble shoot and the jumper to test each area. I was going to ask about bypassing those thermal fuses but assumed they were their for a specific purpose and not to bypass for any length of time> thanks for confirming that[emoji108]
I already had ordered a new circuit board and that did not do it....so I sent it back. I will put the original board back in, than try the jumper bypass on the Thermal leads.
I'll check back in soon.
Thanks again for the help![emoji6]

[jasin1]

Originally Posted by meaz93*

Appreciate the trouble shoot and the jumper to test each area. I was going to ask about bypassing those thermal fuses but assumed they were their for a specific purpose and not to bypass for any length of time> thanks for confirming that[emoji108]
I already had ordered a new circuit board and that did not do it....so I sent it back. I will put the original board back in, than try the jumper bypass on the Thermal leads.
I'll check back in soon.
Thanks again for the help![emoji6]

i’m surprised someone would let you return the board after you installed it.

Most places do not let you return parts like circuit boards because if someone is just guessing on a diagnosis they could potentially damage the new boards circuitry by installing it on a failed system…or just damage it handling it.
Even auto parts stores won’t let you return most electrical parts for that reason.

That’s why i always look at the terminals of any new board,i check the wire terminals for scratches indicating someone installed it before. i check the packaging…nothing worse then paying for a premium new part and getting a used one someone returned.

good luck with your repair, sorry for the rant,it’s just one of my pet peeves lol

[meaz93*]

Yeah I get that Jasin1.....I wouldn't want to purchase a so called new / used returned part either.
I ordered through Amazon, so it was easy to return. I was told by the "Mobile RV Repair Guy"[emoji848] I hired.... that the new circuit board I ordered was faulty and that it happens from time to time.
He never said anything about the thermal fuses?
That will be the last time I ever make the mistake of having a mobile service come out unless I need a tow-lol

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by meaz93*

Yeah I get that Jasin1.....I wouldn't want to purchase a so called new / used returned part either.
I ordered through Amazon, so it was easy to return. I was told by the "Mobile RV Repair Guy"[emoji848] I hired.... that the new circuit board I ordered was faulty and that it happens from time to time.
He never said anything about the thermal fuses?
That will be the last time I ever make the mistake of having a mobile service come out unless I need a tow-lol

Not to "defend someone I don't know" but he may have checked the two thermal fuses with an ohmmeter and determined they are working properly, so he ruled them out because they are not the problem....

Without knowing what he did, the reason he never mentioned them to you as a potential issue could very well be because he confirmed they are working properly, so they "CAN'T" be the problem.....

[meaz93*]

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Not to "defend someone I don't know" but he may have checked the two thermal fuses with an ohmmeter and determined they are working properly, so he ruled them out because they are not the problem....



Without knowing what he did, the reason he never mentioned them to you as a potential issue could very well be because he confirmed they are working properly, so they "CAN'T" be the problem.....

And this I guess could be true.....