Parasitic draw

PoCoDep · 06-09-2022, 03:49 PM

Does anyone know the average parasitic draw on the new Cougars w/ SolarFlex? My batteries were drained after 72 hrs with no charge. What is the best way to test the draw? 2022 Cougar Half-Ton 25RES. TIA

**chuckster57** · 06-09-2022, 04:14 PM

DC amp clamp on the positive lead to the trailer from the battery(s). I would disconnect the solar, so it doesn’t affect the reading.

What type/size and number of battery(s) are installed and have you verified the solar is charging?

PoCoDep · 06-09-2022, 05:15 PM

Two 12V batteries. There is nothing wrong with the panels, the camper is parked under cover. Even without any charge going to the batteries, I felt they drained too quickly. Just wondered if this was normal on the newer high-tech campers.

**chuckster57** · 06-09-2022, 05:31 PM

Are they the dealer installed gp 24’s? If so they may not even be true deep cycle.

Does your trailer have a battery cut off or the new “giggy box”? If the batteries aren’t shut off then your LP detector and radio presets will draw. If you have InCommand, I would suspect it draws even when it’s “sleeping”. If you can determine the total amount draw and know the total amp hours available you can do the math.

**JRTJH** · 06-09-2022, 06:35 PM

Battery quality from the dealership is very likely not the most advanced type or size. Likely you've got a couple of GP24 "marine deep cycle hybrid" batteries. They range in cost from around $70 to well over $200. Guess which ones your dealer installed "complimentary" when you bought the trailer...

That said, if you have the SolarFlex system, there is a "phone app" available that you can download and use to monitor the exact status of your electrical system as well as the current draw at any specific time. You can read about the SolarFlex system here: https://www.keystonerv.com/solarflex-200-overview On that page you'll find a "blue link" titled "Victron smartphone app." that is located at the end of the first paragraph. That link will give you access to the smart phone app.

PoCoDep · 06-10-2022, 02:28 AM

Thanks, guys. I will use the switch to cut off some of the draw. Surprisingly, I felt like they supplied some pretty decent batteries, Interstate deep-cycle.

**chuckster57** · 06-10-2022, 02:50 AM

Interstate is a good battery, there a couple different batteries in the go 24 size. SRM 24 has more Ah if my brain is in gear this morning.

jxnbbl · 06-10-2022, 03:36 AM

Fridge? - I was told one of the reasons they were going to solar flex being standard was to power the 12V fridge and not have dual fuel fridges any longer. If that is the case, the thermostat in the fridge actually can be turned all the way off. However it you prop open the door you would have to use the giggy box shutoff or tape the door switch to keep the light off.

That is the only thing I can think of that would suck the batteries dry if everything else is disconnected/off.

ChuckS · 06-10-2022, 03:36 AM

Buy yourself a meter that also measures amps.. I picked up this one to supplement my tools for the RV.. it matches my fluke meters with readings

Put the clamp around the negative terminal from battery to frame to properly measure parasitic draw in amps..

On my Alpine with nothing turned on I see about .350 amp draw from the various electronic items with8n the RV

These include the level up control panel and fwd control module.. it’s aired directly t9 battery and cutoff switch has zero affect

LP detector..wired directly to battery

Roof mounted AC control boxes .. wired directly to battery

Socaldave · 06-10-2022, 06:00 AM

I recently installed this simple affordable monitoring panel in my TT. Think it was around $20 and installed it eye level just above the power panel. Works very well for a quick overview of what's going on with your 12v system.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS...roduct_details

**JRTJH** · 06-10-2022, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Socaldave

I recently installed this simple affordable monitoring panel in my TT. Think it was around $20 and installed it eye level just above the power panel. Works very well for a quick overview of what's going on with your 12v system.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS...roduct_details

Wired properly, it will give you the "battery input/output"

That said, to "grab 12 volts from a switch wire in the back of the control panel and connect this monitoring panel" will only give you the status of that single wire, not the battery cable load....

Many (probably most) people realize this and already know the implications of wiring "to just any 12 volt source"... So, I'm not criticizing, rather just stating "for the novice electrician" that in order to monitor the load on the battery, you'll need to be connected to the battery cable and monitoring what's going through that wire, not "some other wire in the trailer that reads 12 volts on my HF meter".....

Socaldave · 06-10-2022, 06:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JRTJH

Wired properly, it will give you the "battery input/output"

That said, to "grab 12 volts from a switch wire in the back of the control panel and connect this monitoring panel" will only give you the status of that single wire, not the battery cable load....

Many (probably most) people realize this and already know the implications of wiring "to just any 12 volt source"... So, I'm not criticizing, rather just stating "for the novice electrician" that in order to monitor the load on the battery, you'll need to be connected to the battery cable and monitoring what's going through that wire, not "some other wire in the trailer that reads 12 volts on my HF meter".....

I never stated "I grabbed 12 volts from a switch". It is connected via a 100amp/75mV shunt to the negative battery cable prior to any load.

**JRTJH** · 06-10-2022, 06:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Socaldave

I never stated "I grabbed 12 volts from a switch". It is connected via a 100amp/75mV shunt to the negative battery cable prior to any load.

Then, as I said in my post, " I'm not criticizing, rather just stating "for the novice electrician" that in order to monitor the load on the battery, you'll need to be connected to the battery cable and monitoring what's going through that wire, not "some other wire in the trailer that reads 12 volts on my HF meter"

We've got people who don't know the "working end of a screwdriver" and "master mechanics" reading the same posts on this forum. Keeping it "relevant to all" was/is the reason for my post....

Socaldave · 06-10-2022, 06:58 AM

Ah, now I see your point John.

**JRTJH** · 06-10-2022, 07:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Socaldave

Ah, now I see your point John.

Yep... We've got another thread going right now with the questions along the lines of: "When I cut the inverter loop wire, how do I tell which end is hot and which end to connect to the inverter?"....

Sometimes, people can figure it out, sometimes, it's a lot safer to "step away from the tools".... The risky part, for any forum, is knowing how to give advice to both ends of the "knowledge/experience population"....

No harm done with your post, but I can see someone buying that monitor, hooking it up with a cigarette lighter plug and then asking, "Why won't it work?" I know, that's the extreme end, but I've seen it more than is comfortable to read, on this forum as well as many others.....

PoCoDep · 06-10-2022, 08:25 AM

Thanks, but I didn't order the 12V fridge.

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