No power from battery to fuse panel

Rik · 05-31-2021, 07:14 PM

We have a 2015 Hideout 178 that we purchased new. Never had an electrical problem (unless you count the unit being delivered with the wrong fuses in the panel).

This weekend, we had no power getting from the fully charged battery to the panel, and consequently no lights and no heat. (It was cold and rainy in Woodford State Park, Vermont) I checked the battery, again, fully charged, the junction boxes under the frame, power going in from the battery as well as out through all legs. And it appears power is getting to the panel, at least it shows up on the large wires coming in on the left under the AC shore power breakers (we're not on shore power) but nothing at the 30 amp main and 15 amp 12vDC circuit fuses on the left.

Any ideas?
Rik

bobbecky · 05-31-2021, 08:50 PM

If you are not connected to shore power, those large wires can not be energized by AC 120 volt power. They are probably 12 volt cables that come from the batteries. I sounds like maybe your battery disconnect switch is turned off which would open the circuit from the batteries to the electric panel. If you have the battery disconnect switch open when connected to shore power you will see 12 volt power at the panel coming from the converter, but with the disconnect switch open, no power is getting to the batteries. Check the battery disconnect switch. It may have a red plastic handle that you turn, and if the switch is open, the red 'key' can be removed from the switch. If the switch is closed, the 'key' can not be removed, and that is the normal position.

CedarCreekWoody · 06-01-2021, 04:31 AM

There is usually an inline circuit breaker that feeds the panel. They are often manual reset with a small reset button on the side. Search the forum for photos. Use a 12 volt test light or multimeter and start at the battery, working downstream.

Rik · 06-01-2021, 05:31 AM

Bob,
There is no battery disconnect that I can find. I've had this unit since new and never seen anything like what you're describing. Remember, it's a trailer, not a motorhome. I have seen something like a cutoff switch on motorhomes, but not on a trailer.
Thank you for responding

Rik · 06-01-2021, 05:38 AM

Woody,
I started from the battery with a multi-meter. There is power to the blocks attached to the frame near the battery. Power going in and power going out on all lugs of those two blocks. I pulled the cover off the panel and there is power to the panel. Doesn't appear to be 12v but since that is the only power connected to the system at all, it must be from the battery. However, from there, it does not get to the 12v fuse panel.
There appears to be no reset/breaker on the blocks on the frame by the battery (I wish I knew what to call them - gotta be an official name) although most videos online say there is. Regardless, there is power going in and out of them. I see no inline fuse or breaker anywhere else.

**flybouy** · 06-01-2021, 06:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rik

Woody,
I started from the battery with a multi-meter. There is power to the blocks attached to the frame near the battery. Power going in and power going out on all lugs of those two blocks. I pulled the cover off the panel and there is power to the panel. Doesn't appear to be 12v but since that is the only power connected to the system at all, it must be from the battery. However, from there, it does not get to the 12v fuse panel.
There appears to be no reset/breaker on the blocks on the frame by the battery (I wish I knew what to call them - gotta be an official name) although most videos online say there is. Regardless, there is power going in and out of them. I see no inline fuse or breaker anywhere else.

What is "doesn't appear to be 12v"? If you tested it with a volt meter then what is it? If you have 12v dc at the wires feeding the dc side of the distribution panel but not to any of the fuses then it must be a problem in between those two points, they aren't that far apart.. Pull the reverse polarity fuses and check them with an Ohm meter, not just visually. If they are ok then proceed to the rest of the fuses.

When you were "checking the battery" and the dc cicuit breakers on the frame where was the negative lead of the voltmeter attached to? You need to check for voltage to a clean, peaint free area of the framevand not the neg post of the battery. If you loose contact from the frame to the neg side of the battery then the meter will complete the circuit but the return path to the battery can still be interupted.

CedarCreekWoody · 06-01-2021, 06:39 AM

Those blocks sound like circuit breakers. A photo would help identify them but if are passing current they aren't the problem. I'm confused over the panels you describe. Again photos would help. What voltage current is flowing to the first panel? What does that panel service if it's not the 12 volt panel?

**JRTJH** · 06-01-2021, 07:15 AM

OK, let's start at "square one" and move forward:

First, did you remove/reinstall/reconnect the battery recently ???

If you did, the first thing to check is the reverse polarity fuses on the trailer power center. They are the two 40 amp fuses located just to the left of the vertical row of fuses on the right side when you open the door. If you "arced or sparked" the battery connection, you may have blown one or both of those fuses. If they are bad, you'll get no power from the battery to the vertical fuses...

Next, disconnect shore power to the trailer and then, adjacent to those vertical fuses (about 10-12 of them) are two "big connectors with a black wire and a white wire connected to them. Check for 12VDC between those two lugs. If you have 12 VDC there, then the problem is wiring within the trailer. If you do NOT have power there, then the problem is wiring from the battery to the power center.

Make these two checks and let us know the results, then we can move on from there.

Rik · 06-29-2021, 06:40 AM

In the ongoing saga of this charging issue, we've narrowed it down. The fuse for the main was too low. Keystone delivered the unit with a 15amp where there should have been a 20. That replaced, it still blows occasionally when switching from shore power to battery or battery to shore power. More frequently when using the generator (a Champion 4500. a big unit I know but it was available cheap) Anyway, the other issue is that the battery will charge on the truck (while towing) or from a stand alone battery charger but doesn't seem to charge from shore power or the generator. I have to think this is all related. We're coping by taking a trickle charger with us and plugging that into the generator. Just weird. I confess to not understanding automotive electrics that much.

CedarCreekWoody · 06-29-2021, 06:53 AM

Did you check those two reverse polarity fuses as recommended above?

Scttw · 06-29-2021, 07:31 AM

FYI, my reverse polarity fuses are behind the fuse panel and I access them from the storage door wall immediately to the right of the door.

Just saying.

**flybouy** · 06-29-2021, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rik

In the ongoing saga of this charging issue, we've narrowed it down. The fuse for the main was too low. Keystone delivered the unit with a 15amp where there should have been a 20. That replaced, it still blows occasionally when switching from shore power to battery or battery to shore power. More frequently when using the generator (a Champion 4500. a big unit I know but it was available cheap) Anyway, the other issue is that the battery will charge on the truck (while towing) or from a stand alone battery charger but doesn't seem to charge from shore power or the generator. I have to think this is all related. We're coping by taking a trickle charger with us and plugging that into the generator. Just weird. I confess to not understanding automotive electrics that much.

What does the manual for the power distribution center have listed as a main fuse ampacity? 20 amps sounds low to me.

notanlines · 06-29-2021, 12:13 PM

Like Marshall, I have to believe that amperage is too low. I would be inclined to believe closer to 40 amps should be the standard. Even the main fuse on my old Harley-Davidson is 40 amps.
I certainly would look into that amperage.

CedarCreekWoody · 06-29-2021, 12:37 PM

Are you perhaps referring to the 120 volt circuit breaker feeding the converter, or an actual fuse on a 12 volt line?

GaryUT · 06-29-2021, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rik

In the ongoing saga of this charging issue, we've narrowed it down. The fuse for the main was too low. Keystone delivered the unit with a 15amp where there should have been a 20. That replaced, it still blows occasionally when switching from shore power to battery or battery to shore power. More frequently when using the generator (a Champion 4500. a big unit I know but it was available cheap) Anyway, the other issue is that the battery will charge on the truck (while towing) or from a stand alone battery charger but doesn't seem to charge from shore power or the generator. I have to think this is all related. We're coping by taking a trickle charger with us and plugging that into the generator. Just weird. I confess to not understanding automotive electrics that much.

Your converter is not charging the batteries. Either the fuses on the converter itself are blown, or the converter is bad.

Connect your multi meter to the batteries, note the voltage it should be in the 12v range. Connect to shore power, the voltage should increase to 13 volts or higher indicating the converter is charging the batteries.

The photos below show what I mean.

Gary

You may also like: