Electric Tongue Jack - Page 2

wa5ngp · 04-17-2014, 04:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hoojs12840

DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT order the LCI contoured ones . http://store.lci1.com/next-generatio...-jack-p68.aspx

They look pretty, but I have had 3 of them fail. 1st one (2500lb) motor quit, replaced with 3500, gears snapped, had it not still been hooked to my truck we would have had major issues. 3rd one ((3500), motor quit after 8mths. To LCI's credit they did refund me the cost of the last one without question. I had documented each occasion. I think the last one was due to water, given the rust I saw when I took the plastic off,(BTW, first and only time I used the offset screw driver)

They are just garbage.

Sadly, I have one of those. One thing I have noticed is that the plastic cover is not tolerant of UV as it gets hard and brittle. So that is another reason to put a bucket or sack over it. My wife says it looks tacky, and it does but I don't want this thing to break any more than it has. I better make sure that the crank is somewhere easily located.

rode2nowhere · 04-17-2014, 05:17 AM

what I have too, 2011 model, it still works but sounds like its straining...

rxcamping · 06-01-2014, 03:14 PM

Bought a refabbed ultra fab on ebay for 100.00 two years and is holding up great.

rosede · 06-08-2014, 12:02 PM

Its been a while since I looked at this posting. I didn't realize there were so many comments made.

I finally purchased the Husky 3000 electric power jack. I had a bit of frustration installing it though.

I initially installed it, and tried to power it on, nothing. Not a single peep out of the motor, no lights nothing. There must be something wrong with the motor, so I returned it to Amazon and got a replacement.

I got the replacement jack and installed it. Again, nothing. I checked my connections, made sure all crimped wires were secure and tight, still nothing. No way can two jacks be bad, must be something else, but what? This is simple DC, you connect the jack to the positive on the battery, and the ground connection is through the frame itself.

I put back the manual jack and put all my tools away, and was getting ready to move on when I noticed something. A sticker on the frame which read "Black to Positive, White to Ground". What?!?! Wait a minute, that isn't how my battery is wired, white was on the positive terminal, and black was on the ground. My battery was backwards!!

I had to take my camper in last fall and have the front cap repainted. The guys at the body shop must have installed the battery backwards after they finished painting the cap. I immediately pulled out my tools, took everything apart again, reinstalled and voila, this time it works.

I do have one issue though that I need to resolve.

The Power Cord Storage on the back of the jack is too close to the LP tank cover and I can't get the tank cover back on. I need to remove that and find something to replace it with. Does anyone know of a replacement cover that I can purchase? I'd rather find something made for it, than me having to fabricate something.

Thanks.

Daryl

lspajm · 06-08-2014, 01:23 PM

my lci tongue jack just crapped out on my AS i was hooking up to leave a trip this weekend. it just grinds and grinds but doesn't go up or down. I ended up unbolting it and letting it DROP down on my ball - thankfully i was 99% lined up and ready to drop it onto the ball anyways.

i am about to buy an Altwood tongue jack -- any thoughts?
Thanks

{tpc} · 06-08-2014, 04:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rosede

Its been a while since I looked at this posting. I didn't realize there were so many comments made.

I finally purchased the Husky 3000 electric power jack. I had a bit of frustration installing it though.

I initially installed it, and tried to power it on, nothing. Not a single peep out of the motor, no lights nothing. There must be something wrong with the motor, so I returned it to Amazon and got a replacement.

I got the replacement jack and installed it. Again, nothing. I checked my connections, made sure all crimped wires were secure and tight, still nothing. No way can two jacks be bad, must be something else, but what? This is simple DC, you connect the jack to the positive on the battery, and the ground connection is through the frame itself.

I put back the manual jack and put all my tools away, and was getting ready to move on when I noticed something. A sticker on the frame which read "Black to Positive, White to Ground". What?!?! Wait a minute, that isn't how my battery is wired, white was on the positive terminal, and black was on the ground. My battery was backwards!!

I had to take my camper in last fall and have the front cap repainted. The guys at the body shop must have installed the battery backwards after they finished painting the cap. I immediately pulled out my tools, took everything apart again, reinstalled and voila, this time it works.

I do have one issue though that I need to resolve.

The Power Cord Storage on the back of the jack is too close to the LP tank cover and I can't get the tank cover back on. I need to remove that and find something to replace it with. Does anyone know of a replacement cover that I can purchase? I'd rather find something made for it, than me having to fabricate something.

Thanks.

Daryl

Daryl, mine is the exact same way, though I have a 3500. You can get the cord in there with some effort and moving around of the tank cover. I just deal with it because it's only an issue after we have unhitched. But you should be able to unscrew that cover and hanger for the cord right off the side and relocate it to another part of the jack. Just fill the leftover holes with rtv and be careful where you screw it back in and you should be good to go.

rosede · 06-09-2014, 04:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by {tpc}

Daryl, mine is the exact same way, though I have a 3500. You can get the cord in there with some effort and moving around of the tank cover. I just deal with it because it's only an issue after we have unhitched. But you should be able to unscrew that cover and hanger for the cord right off the side and relocate it to another part of the jack. Just fill the leftover holes with rtv and be careful where you screw it back in and you should be good to go.

{tpc}

I wasn't able to get my cover on at all. The cord storage bracket is sticking out to far. I saw that I could unscrew the storage bracket, but I wasn't sure what its covering. I'm assuming that its a hole and will need to be covered with plate or cover of some kind.

Thanks.

Daryl

rosede · 06-09-2014, 05:17 AM

Good news.

I sent an email to Husky asking if they had some kind of cover plate. I just received a reply from Husky. They told me that the cord storage bracket is meant to be removed for clearance. I saw that I could remove the bracket, but I didn't try. I was assuming that it was some kind of access cover as well, and that if I removed that bracket, I would need to have something else to cover the hole.

The cord storage bracket would be nice to have, but since I never had one, I won't miss it once I take it off.

Daryl

booboopercy · 06-09-2014, 05:33 AM

rosede, I had thr same problem with my Husky 4500 hitting the tank cover. Took the connector storage off and used some small stainless steel screws and relocated it on the side of the tank cover. Real handy to have for connector protection. Hope this helps.
Guy

{tpc} · 06-10-2014, 04:54 AM

Glad you got it sorted out! If I had to remove mine I would have relocated it, because it was a feature I wanted. Just didn't feel right to me that while sitting in storage, the connector was exposed to the elements all the time. I am sure they are made to be ok doing that, but still..lol.

swan2125 · 07-02-2014, 04:23 AM

AH!!!!!!!!!!!!! We are headed out today and I was in the middle of hooking up, had dropped the trailer on the ball of the truck, started going up and it grinded to a halt....nothing, but the light works...no up or down. I'm guessing it got wet last night during the bad storm we got hit. SO, I popped the cover off and manually cranked it up to finish the job - that sucked. Ready to go now, guess I"ll have to use some of my arm strength this weekend, uh!

Question: The electric jack from Keystone has a sticker stating 5,000 pound capacity, if I purchase a new one, do I need to look for the same or will a 3,000 pound one work? Any suggestions?

My dry weight is 6,700 pounds.

Thanks.

{tpc} · 07-02-2014, 04:41 AM

swan,

I would probably go with something like a Husky 4500. If cost is an issue (the 4500 might be a little pricy) you could try a 3500. The gamble is whether or not you want to spend money rebuilding the 3500 if it breaks or the money to replace it altogether.

Mine so far is working fine, though I have only used it a few times. Of course my dry weight is quite a bit less than yours.

I would look to ebay or amazon for a decent price. I went with amazon, because I was in a hurry to get it and spent a little more money as a result. However the first one I got had a cracked housing, so I couldn't put it on anyways, and amazon overnighted me a replacement (I was already gone however). I then shipped the bad one back and they paid for that too. With eBay there may be more risk depending on who you buy from.

pjinthedaks · 07-02-2014, 08:08 AM

We thought we had to replace ours as well. Turned out to be the switch. Simple repair. Also, we learned that the socket genie we use in the drill for the stabilizers is the same size required to work the tongue jack manually!

swan2125 · 07-23-2014, 11:57 AM

Hi all....

As suggested, I went back and opened up the cover to the old electric jack (brand unknown) and saw that it was completely rusted out on the inside. I also wasn't getting power to the up/down switch, just to the light switch. So I removed the light switch and used it on the up/down side to see if that would work - nope, dead.

So, after another trip out with the family last weekend, I had enough of the cranking and purchased a Husky Brute 4500 pound jack from amazon when I returned home Sunday night....it just arrived today and I'm ready to replace the old jack.

Question is: instead of running the wire from new jack directly to the battery (as instructed), can I splice the wire that runs directly from the trailer for power and connect them together with a butt connector?

My old electric jack ran directly to the the trailer (not the battery), which allowed me to have power and not take my battery with me every time I had to move the trailer.

Thanks.
Swan

swan2125 · 07-23-2014, 12:40 PM

After more investigation, I followed the current wire back to a junction box (with other wires) behind the propane tanks. They have an area to hook it up to and they also have a ground wire running from the box to the frame. I'll remove the old wire and replace with the new wire, I'll let you all know how it turns out (or if I need some help).

Thanks.

{tpc} · 07-25-2014, 04:49 AM

Sounds like you got it figured out.

I think you will like the husky, I like mine. Did you get the one with the remote? lol its a neat gadget, but do you really need a remote? I suppose if you want to level while in the camper or something....

swan2125 · 07-26-2014, 11:46 AM

It worked out perfect...took my time and it took less than 2 hours, which included gathering up everything and hooking up to the truck. I took off the old one and spliced in their circuit breaker between the junction box and the new jack. I didn't get the remote, saved myself $70 by not getting it.

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