Towing Advice

[busterbrown]

The only advice I can offer (above and beyond the already sound recommendations from other members) is "invest" in a heavy duty platform truck. Many of us are formerly paying members of the BTDT club. It's not cheap and it's especially not cheap to pay the membership dues twice. As your kids get older, the toys get heavier. The trips may get longer. Water and firewood are heavy. You'll cherish every lb of additional payload at some point... believe me.

Also, 3/4 ton trucks harness and control long (31 ft) trailers so much better than the 1/2 ton counterparts. You'll appreciate that the first time driving through a storm with 35 mph crosswinds. Remember, these RVs are huge sails...no matter the weight. Control originates from the TV. As a few may object, but size really does matter. .

In any case, good luck with sorting things out, stay safe, and happy trails.

[flybouy]

Without changing one side of the equation or the other to match tower to towie there’s only one safe option. Get a seasonal site and keep it there, use the truck to go to the the camper not tow it.

If he insists on endangering everyone by towing it then he better start saving up money. He’ll be needing money, not for a more capable truck but rather for the ongoing big dollar repairs. Transmissions, u joints (some trucks that’s the driveshaft to), rear differential, maybe an axle if he twists one trying to pull out of a stop.

You say those would be warranty repairs? Not if you’re towing over the truck limits. And yes, the dealer can plug into the OBD port and tell EXCATLY how much weight you’ve pulled and how how fast you excelled at Ed, braked and pretty much everything but what color socks you wear.

[HideoutSpadz]

Originally Posted by flybouy

Without changing one side of the equation or the other to match tower to towie there’s only one safe option. Get a seasonal site and keep it there, use the truck to go to the the camper not tow it.

If he insists on endangering everyone by towing it then he better start saving up money. He’ll be needing money, not for a more capable truck but rather for the ongoing big dollar repairs. Transmissions, u joints (some trucks that’s the driveshaft to), rear differential, maybe an axle if he twists one trying to pull out of a stop.

You say those would be warranty repairs? Not if you’re towing over the truck limits. And yes, the dealer can plug into the OBD port and tell EXCATLY how much weight you’ve pulled and how how fast you excelled at Ed, braked and pretty much everything but what color socks you wear.

Not sure where you haven’t seen that I’m going to be upgrading the truck to a larger payload and tow capacity?

Payload will increase to over 1700 and tow capacity to over 11,000.

Please explain how I’ll be into repairs if I keep payload to occupants and tongue weight and load the trailer to under 9000 lbs?

Maybe I’m missing something but feel as though I am not and you are.

Please explain?

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by HideoutSpadz

Not sure where you haven’t seen that I’m going to be upgrading the truck to a larger payload and tow capacity?

Payload will increase to over 1700 and tow capacity to over 11,000.

Please explain how I’ll be into repairs if I keep payload to occupants and tongue weight and load the trailer to under 9000 lbs?

Maybe I’m missing something but feel as though I am not and you are.

Please explain?

Start at post #12. Every post since (excluding yours) has advised against another 1/2 ton truck. Everyone (again, other than you) have voiced concern over payload and advised ignoring the “max towing number”. It's been explained every way I know of so I’m not going to repeat it yet again.

Good luck to you and travel safe.

[wiredgeorge]

OK Marshall, First the guy is going to do what the guy is going to do. Second. Explain this comment you made, " how fast you excelled at Ed". I thought this was a family site! The SHAME! I wouldn't think ED was something one excelled at... just sayin'.

[Javi]

I could see where this was going from the get-go and amazingly I managed to steer clear of the wreck..

[BrooksFam]

OP, I think (know) what everybody is recommending/saying is to upgrade to 3/4 ton truck, not another 1/2 ton with marginal capacity improvements.

Something I will be doing at some point

[Northofu1]

Originally Posted by tech740

Buy a used 3500 and don’t look back. I have now had new and used trucks, I would buy used again if I can’t swing new.

It's incredibly difficult to find used hd trucks up north that haven't towed cars or plowed parking lots, or just been beaten like a rented mule. I searched for 6 months. Not saying they aren't out there, you just need to know someone who has one and wants to part with it.
Most of our pick ups in Canada when traded in go to the US. You guys love em. That's where my 1500 went and the dealership that took it said they send quite a bit down there.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by wiredgeorge

OK Marshall, First the guy is going to do what the guy is going to do. Second. Explain this comment you made, " how fast you excelled at Ed". I thought this was a family site! The SHAME! I wouldn't think ED was something one excelled at... just sayin'.

Accelerated, do know how that got changed. I’m guessing it’s the ghost of The “guy in the garage” having fun. No internet. So using DW Apple Air tablet. I absolutely hate this thing. Oh well, getting ready to hitch up and return to civilization in a few hours.

[Third Degree]

Before you pass on that F150 with max tow check to see if that Ram 1500 hemi requires premium fuel to run on. That could make a big difference at the pump.

[travelin texans]

Originally Posted by Bmackr6

Total towing capacity is an absolute useless number......I don’t care what it is it doesn’t matter at all.
Reason
You will run out of payload long before you reach your “towing capacity.”

Buy a truck based on payload, and then you won’t be sorry.

That's a fact!
That's as big a sales gimmick as "half ton towable" or "polar package"!
Pay NO attention to max tow weight or the posted rv dry weight or tongue weight, none of these mean nothing to YOU.

[KeystoneKal]

I hope I’m not too far off topic. It’s not clear to me how much RV experience HideoutSpadz has. My thought would be to find a nice campground with seasonal sites and park the trailer there. This will allow time to adjust to the RV experience without losing additional thousands on the sale and purchase of TV or trailer. A seasonal site allows the owner time to become familiar with what its like to own and live in an RV.
Many RV parks have pools, playgrounds, restaurants, and other amenities that make a great staycation for the family without the need to spend time on the road.

[ChrisBl]

Lots of good advice here but I didn't see anyone mention taking into account the reduction in towing capacity due to altitude. The reduction in payload can really add up if you plan on seeing the country. I would try to target at least a 3000 lb buffer between rated towing and actual towing.

[flybouy]

Originally Posted by ChrisBl

Lots of good advice here but I didn't see anyone mention taking into account the reduction in towing capacity due to altitude. The reduction in payload can really add up if you plan on seeing the country. I would try to target at least a 3000 lb buffer between rated towing and actual towing.

I think you missed the point that most responders have expressed that the "tow rating" is a useless measure as the load capacity will be exceeded long before you breach the "tow rating". Yes altitude will effect the trucks performance by reducing hp but the load will remain constant.

Anyone towing regularly at higher altitudes should consider a more powerful engine option that has a turbo charger or supercharger that will compensate for the thinner air. Typically a diesel is the best choice IMHO.

[Rubicon100]

Some of you guys are awesome. I complement your patience. I have been dealing with my uncle all summer about why his truck is so hard to drive with the camper on.
He has a 2010 f150 with the 4.6 and he's pulling a 36' Forest River windjammer with 3 slideouts.
His truck is rated for towing 10,500lbs . I asked him about his scaled weights and he said he has never been to the scales, the dealer said that his truck is fine.
I talked him into going to the scales and I would explain the numbers to him. His gvwr is 6800lbs. Axles are 3450 each. When we weighed it his rear axle was 5900lbs and his front was 2200lbs.
The trailer axles were 8800lbs. He didn't see a problem, his truck can tow 10,500 and the camper only weighed 8800lbs. I tried explaining to him that the tounge weight was part of the camper and he was dangerously overweight.
He took it back to camping world and they told him that he needed to go to the 12,000lb equalizer from the 10,000 and he would be fine.
Anyway he spent an entire day there and he ended up with new airbags and thinks all is good. His truck has a camper shell and he has a Honda 3500 generator in the bed on one of those fancy slide out trays.
I don't understand how hard it is for some people to know what the weights mean.
Sorry for the long post but I needed to vent off some steam.
You guys have always been very patient and polite and I have learned a lot since I bought my first camper, thank you all for trying to keep everyone safe, Dan

[crowbar]

Hi Eric, welcome to the forum. Here is some advice for what it's worth, from a guy that pulls a 7500 GVW trailer with a half ton truck. First, don't shoot yourself until you know all the facts. As has been stated, you won't know anything until you load up and weigh that thing. Just because your GVW on the trailer is 7500 lbs. doesn't mean that you'll be that heavy. I'm usually dry camping and so my water tanks are full and I've weighed my unit when loaded up and I'm still a ways off 7500 lbs. That being said, your hitch weight will NOT be 1000 lbs. and you may be okay as far as weight. You don't know until you load and weigh! As already stated as well, forget about tow capacity. The issue here is how heavy you are. Also, trading your half ton for another half ton is a waste of time and money. IMHO. Have fun but be safe.

[Johnnyfry]

Dealers will lie to you in order to make the sale. You need to research ALL aspects of towing specs!

[travelin texans]

Manufacturers would save a lot of heartaches & headaches if they would quit posting truck max tow weights & rv dry weights.
The truck max tow is NOT in regards to towing RVs but utility trailers with blocks directly over the axles, NO WAY compares to RVs.
Rv dry weights mean absolutely NOTHING to anyone once it rolls out the factory door.
Anyone stating "I'll never load it to max", I only go short distances", "I don't haul water" are either VERY new to rving or just don't know/would be very surprised at what kind of weight they are actually hauling.

[CaptnJohn]

Originally Posted by HideoutSpadz

Thanks sourdough for the insight. Yes I’m starting to realize everyone was more interested in the sale rather than the right solution or proper advice!

I think I’m going to be checking out the Ram 1500 5.7L V8.

With its tow capacity, I should be able to mitigate using up all my payload capacity and just load the trailer Of everything & not put our packings in the truck. We don’t pack heavy at all and mostly do weekend trips. I guesstimate that what I currently have in my trailer would weight about 400 pounds, add an additional 300 pounds of gear (again we don’t pack much) and that would put me at (dry+trailer gear+personal gear+propane tanks) approx 7000. Now even if I’m off by 1000 pounds, I’m still at only 8000 and with the Hemi, I can tow, according to the papers, just over 11000 which gives me plenary of space.

Also, with a payload of about 1800lbs, with tongue/hitch/people/some stuff, I should be ok.

Unless of course I’ve neglected a factor and am off the mark still?????

Forget towing capacity, concentrate on payload. 1800 is still nothing but a grocery getter. There are half ton trucks with over 2200 payload. Not as pretty but going from a grocery getter to a doctor mom truck isn’t going to pay in the long run.

[Stickman]

No doubt the current 1500 V6 is dangerously overloaded and overtaxed. Not sure how replacing the V6 with a heavier V8 and most likely a heavier 8 speed tranny in the same 1/2 ton chassis equates to more cargo capacity. The reality is it will still be a 1/2 ton chassis trying to control what will realistically be an 8000 lb. sail behind it. No amount of light truck tire, Timbrens, Billsteins, etc. will change the math. Children grow and get heavier along with the crap they" just have to have" along. Plus the loads always creep up naturally whether we admit it or not. The truth is he is better and more safely served by a 3/4 ton chassis, minimum.
No need to spend upwards of $50,000 plus either. We just picked up a good as new nicely trimmed 2019 Ram Bighorn CC 4x4 6.4L(it's an animal) for $40,000. Cargo capacity of 3060 lb. on the sticker and it tugs our 36 ft Sprinter TT without drama or stress.