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Old 03-02-2019, 06:45 AM   #1
Randy Randall
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50 amp using 30 amp in state parks

Hi everyone,

I'm planning on doing some traveling in areas that only have 30 amp power. I am just curious about whether any of you have experienced issues with tripped breakers, blown fuses, and what-not when plugging 50 amp into 30 amp with a dog-bone. When I start adding up the amp load of residential fridge, ac (when needed), tv, microwave, converter, etc., I get to 30 in a hurry. Any thoughts based on your "real-world" experiences? Thanks!

rr
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Old 03-02-2019, 06:54 AM   #2
chuckster57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy Randall View Post
Hi everyone,



I'm planning on doing some traveling in areas that only have 30 amp power. I am just curious about whether any of you have experienced issues with tripped breakers, blown fuses, and what-not when plugging 50 amp into 30 amp with a dog-bone. When I start adding up the amp load of residential fridge, ac (when needed), tv, microwave, converter, etc., I get to 30 in a hurry. Any thoughts based on your "real-world" experiences? Thanks!



rr


We do it a lot at the shop when all the 50A plugs are being used. Since you know how many amps your appliances draw, just make sure your not microwaving popcorn with the AC running and the water heater on electric.
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Old 03-02-2019, 07:39 AM   #3
travelin texans
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The difference between you & I is the residential fridge. We used 30 amp without issue regularly, but had the rv fridge switched to gas along with the water heater & turned the thermostat off if running ac to use the microwave.
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Old 03-02-2019, 08:31 AM   #4
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It's all about "load management".....

3600 watts is 30 amps and once you get to that "magic number" the circuit breaker on the campground pole "should" open, shutting off power to the trailer. It "may" open sooner if it's an old or a weak circuit breaker.

Everyone with a 30 amp trailer has been "living with load management" since they bought their trailer. All have learned that you can't run the A/C and the microwave at the same time and if you want to run the A/C, you have to turn off the water heater's electric element.

Nothing will happen inside your RV on the 50 amp panel, you'll find it works exactly as it does on 50 amp supply or a 30 amp supply. No blown fuses or open circuit breakers inside, but the circuit breaker on the power pole outside will "give you fits" if you exceed the 3600 watt level.

Turn off things you don't need and "manage your load" if you want to use the water heater, microwave or A/C. The residential refrigerator should only draw about 500 watts, and you may (maybe/maybe not) find that the ice maker's heating element will "trip the breaker" if your A/C is on, the ice maker is emptying AND the refrigerator compressor "kicks in" all at the same time.

It's a "livable situation" just one you need to manage to make it work.
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Old 03-02-2019, 10:04 AM   #5
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Just keep the numbers above in mind - 30A/3600 watts. If you have a 50A trailer you will have more "things" than the incoming power can take care of. As for the 30A just remember that the dogbone simply takes the one hot side of the 30A supply and bridges it to feed both hot legs of the 50A so it works just like you have 50A coming in....but you don't (100A vs 30A/12000 watts vs 3600) - big difference.
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Old 03-02-2019, 12:22 PM   #6
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When we connect to a 30 amp outlet, the water heater and fridge get switched to gas only. We only use one A/C if needed, and like was said, the A/C gets turned off if the microwave is needed. Most TV's use very little power, especially the newer flat screens. Once your batteries are charged, your converter will not pull much load too often, but that is also a consideration. What really helps us, is having our Progressive EMS with the display. When on a 30 amp connection, or even when dry camping with a small generator, you can easily see how much load is on each leg of the 50 amp panel, and you just add the loads on both legs to see what the 30 amp service is loaded to.
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