Interior Lights Burning Up

[Jeremym27]

In the last 3 weeks I've had 4 interior lights stop working. The switch no longer has any resistance and the light won't turn on.

This isn't just a bulb issue. I removed the light fixture and there is obvious signs of electrical heat, both at each bulb and at the switch.

I assume the amswer is to switch to LED to reduce on the amount of electric draw; but am I stuck replacing the entire fixture?

Any help would be appreciated!







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[SteveC7010]

Originally Posted by Jeremym27

In the last 3 weeks I've had 4 interior lights stop working. The switch no longer has any resistance and the light won't turn on.

This isn't just a bulb issue. I removed the light fixture and there is obvious signs of electrical heat, both at each bulb and at the switch.

I assume the amswer is to switch to LED to reduce on the amount of electric draw; but am I stuck replacing the entire fixture?

The manufacturer of those light fixtures probably offers replacement switches. From the looks of the fixture, it appears to be an Optronics. I'd also point out that they probably use a standard rocker switch which is even more widely available. Your RV parts counter may even stock them.

[Jeremym27]

Steve thank you very much!

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[SteveC7010]

Originally Posted by Jeremym27

Steve thank you very much!

That will get you going on repairing the fixtures, but I am more concerned about what is going on with your entire trailer. Four of those fixtures burning up in such a short period of time suggests that something is wrong in the entire system, and not just one area. Seeing burn marks at the lamp base and at the switch is not a good sign.

Have you checked the operating voltage of the trailer? On Convertor? On battery only? If the voltage is significantly higher than 13.8vdc, that is indicative of a whole different set of problems. If there is much difference between on convertor and on battery, there is a serious problem.

I'd also want to know for sure that those are 921's which is the correct bulb for the Optronics fixtures.

Changing to LED's will result in a lower current draw which should, at least in theory, reduce the amount of heat buildup in the switch. Most LED's can handle up to 24vdc, but that won't solve the problem. If your convertor is damaged and putting out too much voltage, it's only a matter of time before the control boards in the fridge and water heater go belly up. Another possibility is dual 12vdc batteries wire together in series instead of parallel.

[Jeremym27]

Originally Posted by SteveC7010

That will get you going on repairing the fixtures, but I am more concerned about what is going on with your entire trailer. Four of those fixtures burning up in such a short period of time suggests that something is wrong in the entire system, and not just one area. Seeing burn marks at the lamp base and at the switch is not a good sign.

Have you checked the operating voltage of the trailer? On Convertor? On battery only? If the voltage is significantly higher than 13.8vdc, that is indicative of a whole different set of problems. If there is much difference between on convertor and on battery, there is a serious problem.

I'd also want to know for sure that those are 921's which is the correct bulb for the Optronics fixtures.

Changing to LED's will result in a lower current draw which should, at least in theory, reduce the amount of heat buildup in the switch. Most LED's can handle up to 24vdc, but that won't solve the problem. If your convertor is damaged and putting out too much voltage, it's only a matter of time before the control boards in the fridge and water heater go belly up. Another possibility is dual 12vdc batteries wire together in series instead of parallel.

I have not checked any of the items you said and am adequate in the electrical department. We are seasonal campers and it never moves. We are plugged in to the campgrounds electric all season.

Will the dual 12V batteries help in this case? I have one at home I could easily incorporate.

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[Jeremym27]

I meant to say I am barely adequate in the electrical department. I dont expect any issues changing out new fixtures, but that is about the extent of my current (pun intended ) abilities

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[Pull Toy]

Quick and easy... check your voltage with a multi-meter at the fixture, if it's more than 13.5 +/-, while on shore power , you have an over-voltage condition, possibly your inverter is bad. If it is high, disconnect from shore power and take a second reading, this will prove whether it is an ac/inverter problem, or a battery issue. If you have 2x 12v batteries hooked up, make sure they are in parallel, not series configuration. Series will introduce 24volts into 12 volt fixtures and cook them for sure.

What ever the problem is... fix it quickly! You run the risk of a camper fire, or at the very least, cooked wires / fixtures.

Let us know what you find, and Good Luck!

[SteveC7010]

Originally Posted by Jeremym27

I have not checked any of the items you said and am adequate in the electrical department. We are seasonal campers and it never moves. We are plugged in to the campgrounds electric all season.

Will the dual 12V batteries help in this case? I have one at home I could easily incorporate.

If you are seasonal in a park with electric hookups, there's no reason for dual batteries. I just mentioned them in case you already have them.

Since you are constantly on the same power source, you have to expand your area of suspicion. Is the campground supplying you with reasonably clean, stable power? You can test with a multimeter or pickup one of the many monitor devices available for RV's. Are others in the campground experiencing similar issues?

Power surges may have caused your problems. In that case, it may have killed or seriously damaged the convertor.

If you're not comfortable troubleshooting electrical issues in the 12vdc world or the 110/220 vac world, find someone who is.

[tommy_z]

Something is wrong. That looks like too much current was being drawn for an extended period. When voltage drops, current increases. I'd find out what voltage you're at and go from there. As mentioned, the campground power may have been the issue, so it's important to check your converter output on AC and DC.

I'll also mention that you can swap every bulb with LED for under $100 if you ever decide. It's very simple.

[Jeremym27]

If it is the Campground power, is there some form of voltage regulator or surge protector I can use?

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[shiggs68]

This is nothing more than a bulb that is too hot for the plastic fixture. 921 bulbs run extremely hot. You can check the voltage but I've seen this numerous times.

Has nothing to do with your campground power. These are 12v only. I upgraded mine to LED as they only use 1/10 of the power and virtually no heat.


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[SteveC7010]

Originally Posted by shiggs68

This is nothing more than a bulb that is too hot for the plastic fixture. 921 bulbs run extremely hot. You can check the voltage but I've seen this numerous times.

Has nothing to do with your campground power. These are 12v only. I upgraded mine to LED as they only use 1/10 of the power and virtually no heat.


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A hot bulb won't do the kind of damage that those switches show. Especially to four fixtures in three weeks. Something else is going on there.

I do agree that LED conversion eliminates most of the heat issue, but in this case it might mask another problem.

Other things need to be checked before blowing this off to hot bulbs.

[JRTJH]

Originally Posted by Jeremym27

In the last 3 weeks I've had 4 interior lights stop working. The switch no longer has any resistance and the light won't turn on.

This isn't just a bulb issue. I removed the light fixture and there is obvious signs of electrical heat, both at each bulb and at the switch.

I assume the amswer is to switch to LED to reduce on the amount of electric draw; but am I stuck replacing the entire fixture?

Any help would be appreciated!







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Originally Posted by shiggs68

This is nothing more than a bulb that is too hot for the plastic fixture. 921 bulbs run extremely hot. You can check the voltage but I've seen this numerous times.

Has nothing to do with your campground power. These are 12v only. I upgraded mine to LED as they only use 1/10 of the power and virtually no heat.


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Hot bulbs will NOT burn the electrical connections on the switch (and show no burns on the rest of the wires) as seen in the photos that have been posted. There is, as Steve indicated, something else going on with this trailer. Having 4 light fixtures overheat at the switch connections like these pictures show, is definitely not a "hot 921 bulb". If it were that simple, all of the wires going to the switch would be brown, not just the terminal ends.

Do keep looking, something else is going on besides "hot bulbs" !!!!!

[Pull Toy]

Definitely a 12 volt issue! But I would still check the 12v output from your inverter, and battery configuration.

[shiggs68]

I hate to start an argument. All I can say is I replaced 3 fixtures with bad switches and two more burnt sockets because of those 921 bulbs. All less than two years old. Replaced the entire trailer with LEDs and no more problems.

If the voltage reads 12.6 to 13.8, the voltage is normal depending if you are connected to shore power and the charge state.


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[SteveC7010]

Originally Posted by shiggs68

I hate to start an argument. All I can say is I replaced 3 fixtures with bad switches and two more burnt sockets because of those 921 bulbs. All less than two years old. Replaced the entire trailer with LEDs and no more problems.

If the voltage reads 12.6 to 13.8, the voltage is normal depending if you are connected to shore power and the charge state.

He's in a seasonal campground. Those places are notorious for crappy electrical service. We would do him a much greater disservice if we did not advise him to check his system and the campgrounds power first. Four fixtures blowing up in three weeks is not likely to be hot bulbs. It could be, but it's too many in too short a period of time to just write off to hot bulbs without checking further.

Just replacing bulbs with LED's without verifying his trailer's system and the campground power could well mask a much more serious problem. If everything checks out OK, no harm done, and he's learned about his trailer.

Yeah, we all know that 12.6 to 13.8 is in the normal range. But how does he know if his trailer is functioning in the normal range if he doesn't have it checked?

[Ken / Claudia]

Current trailer and last had 921s and they looked just like photo #2, bulb base. But, no brown on any other places. I replaced current trailer with LEDS since finally they are close to same price as 921s.

[benmarian2000]

I have had similar problems. Some switches with slight browning and others without (no browning at bulbs). I have year around power on private land. I have had to switch out about four different switches over a timeframe of about one year. I have yet to change out a new switch (however I suspect that will come with age). I figured this was a problem of planned obsolescence.... I have found 5 packs of replacement switches (on Amazon) at half the cost of the dealers price. I would consider LED lights (only to avoid the head and the hassle). I almost never run on battery so the power savings would likely never pay off compared to the cost of the LEDs. Where did you buy your LED lights? I am a complete novice for electrical work and the trailer is 2 hours from a dealer (and I have no way to tow it there short of hiring it done). So, the work needs to be relatively simple.... Thank you for your thoughts and suggestions.

[sourdough]

Just switch to LEDs. You can get them on Amazon; just google 921 leds, or, T10s if I recall. They don't cost much and the benefits are many. Get the LEDs that are 12-28 volt NOT the 12 volt only.

[bobbecky]

I also have had to replace some of these fixtures, and our voltage is right where it's supposed to be. The fixtures that failed were ones we had on for long periods of time. I have since replaced all the interior bulbs with LED's, and I don't expect any new failures with sockets or switches.