Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×
 

Go Back   Keystone RV Forums > Keystone Tech Forums > Repairs & Maintenance
Click Here to Login

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 12-22-2014, 04:32 AM   #1
cjelliott81
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Cocoa, Fl
Posts: 50
Is this cause for concern - Window Butyl

I was inspecting the roof yesterday and touching up the Dicor. While coming down the ladder I noticed the butyl around the rear window has begun to shrink a bit. I'm not seeing any signs of leaking, but I'd rather prevent a leak than fix one.



The unit is a 2013 320BHS, to be sure it is not already time to remove the windows and re-seal.

- Should I scrape off the separated butyl and run a bead of silicone around the window?

- Is it acceptable to run a bead of silicone over the top of the butyl?

- Do I need to do anything at all? The butyl is still soft I am just concerned it looks to be separating from the window.
cjelliott81 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-22-2014, 04:53 AM   #2
trueweb
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Central VA
Posts: 146
Don't use silicone, you'll regret it later. Get a normal caulk, Dicor makes some so does Eternabond. They will look better, hold better and be much easier to remove when it's time.

The Butyl should always remain soft. If it gets hard it's not working anymore. If it's separating then maybe the window is getting loose?

Generally, if it's not leaking I don't touch it. If you wanted to do it right you would remove the window and redo the seal with new tape. This solution will work best because the pressure of the window against the bead of butyl tape is a much better seal than any bead of caulk you could put over the top that is only bonding to the small surfaces on either side.

I would leave it alone, there is probably a 1/4" of sealant under there (if the factory did it right). If you want, clean it up and run a bead of caulk around to make it look nicer, just don't do the bottom of the window, just the top and sides.
trueweb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2015, 08:48 AM   #3
katiegreeniz
Member
 
katiegreeniz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: South Shore, MA
Posts: 47
I have the same year and model as you and I had to have my whole back window replaced over the summer. Our actual window was falling out because during manufacturing they screwed into the rubber seal, not the window frame itself. Thank god we noticed it was falling out, because when they did the repair-we noticed that the window seam wasn't waterproofed correctly anyways. Make sure to document this with your dealer and have them check the rest of the windows too. I've had tons of problems with mine, but I've been documenting everything and our dealer has been great. Here are some of my issues and resolutions, hope it helps! http://www.keystonerv.org/forums/sea...archid=2022414
__________________
2013 Keystone Sprinter 320BHS | 2011 Chevy 3500HD



https://www.facebook.com/rvcampersofne

Our Trips
7/2012 Maple Park Campground, Wareham MA
9/2012 Saco KOA Campground, Old Orchard Beach, ME
9/2012 Bayview Campground, Bourne, MA
9/2012 Northampton KOA, Westhampton, MA
8/2013-10/2013 Sandy Pond Campground, South Plymouth, MA
4/2014-10/2014 Sandy Pond Campground, South Plymouth, MA
6/2015-7/2015 Sandy Pond Campground, South Plymouth, MA
katiegreeniz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2015, 09:43 AM   #4
JRTJH
Site Team
 
JRTJH's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Gaylord
Posts: 26,841
trueweb said: "... there is probably a 1/4" of sealant under there (if the factory did it right)."

The problem is "can you believe the factory did it right?" Our Springdale slide windows started leaking about 2.5 years after delivery. I removed them, found that on one, the butyl tape had been applied with the joint at the top of the window and on all four windows, the butyl had not contacted the slide wall on all four edges of the windows. So, there was a potential for leaks even with "good, new butyl" that the factory applied. I cleaned the window flanges, the slide walls and reapplied a double row of butyl, reinstalled the windows and evenly tightened the mounting rings until butyl was compressed and "oozing" from all surfaces. Then after sitting overnight, I trimmed the excess butyl. Never had another leak.

I'd urge you to locate a #2 square drive screwdriver and remove the windows, clean and reseal them properly and "be done with it".... When you apply the new butyl, start at the center bottom of the window and work around to the same location, that way any possible leak where the butyl joins itself is in the "least likely place to develop a leak"...

Applying a "patch" of sealant over the possible leak is still a "patch job" and won't be as reliable as doing it properly. Any RV that's bouncing down the highway at 60+ MPH really needs well applied, quality sealant on the windows and doors. As they shift in their mount openings, they will "find a way to leak" if there's any imperfection. Better safe than sorry.

Good Luck
__________________
John



2015 F250 6.7l 4x4
2014 Cougar X Lite 27RKS
JRTJH is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-09-2015, 09:57 AM   #5
Javi
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Waco, Tx
Posts: 5,456
I'd be pullin' and re-sealing them windows if it was my trailer..
__________________
2015 Ford F350 DRW 6.7 Diesel XL
2020 Avalanche 313 RS
Javi is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2015, 07:37 AM   #6
xaugievike
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 48
I concur with the others, for all it takes to do it right, pull the window and re apply butyl. Then you can rest easy and know it's done right.
__________________
2012 Cougar 325SRX
06 Silverado D/A w LBZ
Full frame-off 95 EZGO 36v goes in the garage

A buddy and I started a blog, read it here:
https://twoguyscamping.blogspot.com
xaugievike is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2015, 08:03 AM   #7
chuckster57
Site Team
 
chuckster57's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,235
You could even use a peel and stick rubber gasket, most likely out last the trailer.
__________________

2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.

Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
chuckster57 is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Keystone RV Company or any of its affiliates in any way. Keystone RV® is a registered trademark of the Keystone RV Company.


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 02:13 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.