Trim screws

[Bolo4u]

Any idea where I can get a handful of these? They are the trim screws used to hold the flexible sheet covering the area under the front of my 5r. It looks like all four snapped when they (self?) drilled them into the frame? I can't tell how long they are due to no clearance. There are two on either side of the pin box. I was going to leave them and add a couple more on either side and hope they too don't snap. I've searched the internet for RV trim screws, self sealing trim screws, etc. but no luck...



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[notanlines]

These are "self-tapping" screws, you just can't see the drill bit looking end on your because it is broken. Any metal building supplier in your area will have what you need. A really good hardware store will also, but look for a real hardware store, not Lowe's or Home Depot.

[chuckster57]

Your going to want stainless steel. The "regular" self tappers will keep breaking off.

[kfxgreenie]

Might Want to read through the following thread. Just recently made this repair myself, even though it had been sagging probably for 4 years. It is easier to get the front baggage door into the catch with the front up.

http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...ht=chin&page=3

[Bolo4u]

Originally Posted by kfxgreenie

Might Want to read through the following thread. Just recently made this repair myself, even though it had been sagging probably for 4 years. It is easier to get the front baggage door into the catch with the front up.

http://www.keystoneforums.com/forums...ht=chin&page=3

BINGO! Thank you. I figured they were self tappers, and figured I'd need to upgrade to a stronger screw.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[bobbecky]

I just used hex head TEK screws along with the existing washer. We had a couple of them keep unscrewing, none broke. You can also use conventional sheet metal screws, just pre-drill the holes a bit smaller than the screw diameter so the threads of the screw have something to grab.

[JRTJH]

I think that anyone who "really inspects" their underpinning will find at least one or two broken screws, just like you found. On my Cougar, all 6 were "snapped off" at the attachment point. The problem is that Keystone uses #2 square drive screws and drills holes in the frame. The screws are 'softer" than the frame, so when they reach the "torque limit" they snap. Unfortunately for us (fortunately for Keystone) the foam gasket holds the screw until someone like you or me or ?? comes along and checks and finds all the broken screws.

The way I repaired mine was to go to Lowe's and buy a package of #10 x 2" self piercing screws (with 1/4" heads) and three "2 packs" of white 1/4x1/4 plastic screw caps. I pulled all the old screws, used several 1/8" drill bits (they break easily) and drilled through the FILON using the existing hole and drilled a new hole in the frame adjacent to the broken OEM screw. I placed a white screw cap on the screw, then used my impact driver and a 1/4" socket to drive the new screws into the frame.

Here is a picture of the package of screws I bought, a couple of pictures of the repair with screw caps in place and a link to the Lowe's screw caps (I don't have any extras to post a picture of the actual screw cap).

It's an easy job, just frustrating to keep snapping drill bits.... Someday, I'll buy some good bits and stop using all the old Boeing tools that I've got laying around.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/The-Hillman...nd-Cap/3012662

[kfxgreenie]

I went the flat stock Aluminum Route, looks good IMO. Put nice and even pressure on the gasket. Only broke 2 drill bits, went in existing holes just drilled at a slight angle, and added 2 new holes. I just hope the mouse that found its way inside this winter didn't end up dying if I sealed him up in there.