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02-01-2017, 01:36 PM
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#1
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Northeast Florida/Southeast Maine
Posts: 784
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Slide motor access
My slide motor is located inside the trailer behind a decorative trim above the slide opening (photo attached). The large square looks like it can be removed; it can't (at least not without significant force) and even then there's a solid wood piece running the length of the slide behind it, so access is not through that way. There's barely enough room to squeeze a cell phone camera in the area between the ceiling and the upper rail with the slide fully extended (the photo of the motor was taken with slide partially extended), so I don't know how one is supposed see how to snake the cable in there and connect it to the motor to retract the slide in the event that the normal way of operation fails. I hope I never have to do this, but I'd like to know how one gets the cable into the motor - just in case! Thanks.
__________________
Now: 2019 Winnebago 2500FL w/e2 WDH;Sold: 2015 Bullet Premier 19FBPR (shown)
2012 Ford F-250 Lariat Super Duty Crew Cab (gas 6.2 L, 3.73 gear ratio 2WD, 172" WB)
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02-01-2017, 01:54 PM
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#2
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Site Team
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Modesto
Posts: 20,351
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All the decorative pieces are stapled on. We use plastic wedges to remove them. When done we staple them back on and fill the staple holes with putty.
__________________
2012 Copper Canyon 273FWRET being towed by a 1994 Ford F350 CC,LB,Dually diesel.
Airlift 5000 bags, Prodigy brake control, 5 gauges on the pillar.Used to tow a '97 Jayco 323RKS.
Now an RVIA registered tech. Retired from Law enforcement in 2008 after 25+ yrs.
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02-01-2017, 03:20 PM
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#3
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Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Posts: 16
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For what it's worth our Bullet 251RBS has a very similar set up. When we were doing our delivery checkout we asked the same guestion of the dealer. After they told us that, we had them show exactly how to remove the trim pieces and also put them back on. I don't think they were too happy, but they did it.
I think it is a dumb design. I did buy a couple of additional extensions to make it a little easier. So far so good. In 3 years we haven't had to use it.
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02-01-2017, 04:28 PM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 1,196
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Slide motor access
Our top trim has two narrow decorative inserts that are held in by the center cover and the two top corner pieces. I used flat head screws under these inserts to attach the two top horizontal full height trim pieces to the slide top frame.
To gain access, I remove the center trim by removing the two exposed mounting screws on each side of the cover. Then I slide out the two narrow decorative inserts from each of the corners. This exposes the flat head screws that I used to replace the brad nails that held the full height trim pieces to the slide top frame. The two top trim pieces are then removed providing the maximum vertical access to the top of the slide. Just enough to work in.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
2018 Jayco Eagle HT 265BHS (previous: 2015 23RB Passport Elite, ProPride)
2015 F250 XLT SB Crew, 6.2l gas
PullRite 16K SuperGlide w/SuperRail
Reese 5th Airborne (bagged) Pin Box
RoadMaster Shock Kit
X-Factor Cross Bracing
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02-01-2017, 04:31 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Solomons
Posts: 3,874
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I'd like to see some pictures of your modification to the trim. I'm having a hard time visualizing it. Thanks in advance.
2016 Passport GT 2810BHS, 2014 Silverado 1500 LT in Deep Forest Green
__________________
Tom
2019 Alpine 3651RL
2016 F350 CC DRW
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02-01-2017, 04:52 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 1,196
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Slide motor access
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tbos
I'd like to see some pictures of your modification to the trim. I'm having a hard time visualizing it. Thanks in advance.
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Remind me to post some pictures in May when the TT comes out of indoor storage. I do not believe I have any pictures that I can post now.
This may help for now:
BTW: my inserts are narrow whereas the OP's are the wide wall coloured inserts. The inserts are brad nailed to the top trim. Mine are no longer nailed to the trim so I can gain access to the flat head screws under the inserts. Rather they are just nested in the cavity of the trim and held on the ends by the center cover and the end trim now.
__________________
2018 Jayco Eagle HT 265BHS (previous: 2015 23RB Passport Elite, ProPride)
2015 F250 XLT SB Crew, 6.2l gas
PullRite 16K SuperGlide w/SuperRail
Reese 5th Airborne (bagged) Pin Box
RoadMaster Shock Kit
X-Factor Cross Bracing
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02-01-2017, 06:36 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 190
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I have a 2015 Cougar X-LIte 30RLI and to remove the trim fascia, I have to pop-off the decorative covers to expose the screws. I then have the DW hold one end of the fascia while I unscrew the screws. We then lift the fascia off and place it on the floor, I now have complete access to the motor and wire cable adjustments.
It might help you posted the year and model of your RV.
Hope this helps ...... Don
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04-30-2017, 04:34 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Winnipeg, Canada
Posts: 1,196
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Here are a few pictures of how I made access to the slide motor and cable adjusters easier.
After removing the center trim, I remove the insert. The insert is captured at the end by the corner trim and near the center by the center trim.
I used flat head screws behind the insert to hold the left and right top trim pieces.
I also used flat head screws to hold the top "frame" particle board if I need even better access to the slide motor/ adjusters.
By using the flat head screws, I was able to eliminate the use of brad nails while keeping the screws hidden.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________
2018 Jayco Eagle HT 265BHS (previous: 2015 23RB Passport Elite, ProPride)
2015 F250 XLT SB Crew, 6.2l gas
PullRite 16K SuperGlide w/SuperRail
Reese 5th Airborne (bagged) Pin Box
RoadMaster Shock Kit
X-Factor Cross Bracing
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